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Business Luxury

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Submitted By foxfox
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VIDEO on FT.com
Lionel Barber, Martin Wolf and Vanessa Friedman interview leading figures at the FT luxury summit in Monte Carlo FT.com/luxury-video

SPECIAL REPORT | Monday June 15 2009 www.ft.com/business-luxury-2009 Slimming all the rage as belts tighten
Haig Simonian investigates the problems faced by luxury goods conglomerates in the current market

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or years, equity analysts urged Johann Rupert to spin off tobacco and turn Richemont, the company he chairs and controls, into a “pure play” luxury goods group. In 2008, the independently-minded Mr Rupert finally took heed and returned Richemont’s stake in British American Tobacco to shareholders, leaving his group focused on Cartier jewellery, Montblanc pens and much else. Today, some of the same pundits are regretting the loss of those high and stable BAT dividends, as the world’s luxury goods industry struggles with its biggest challenges in decades. Demand has tumbled virtually across the globe with no clear sign of recovery. Manufacturers from LVMH Möet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world’s biggest luxury goods group, to Italy’s Bulgari, find themselves saddled with stubbornly high costs, leaving little room for manoeuvre. Even beauty has proved vulnerable, contrary to the common claim, as figures for L’Oréal and others show. On top of the market problems, the sector faces tough secular change. Globalisation has put a premium on size – but sheer mass risks diluting the exclusivity that is luxury

groups’ key feature. The grim economic backdrop has also come just as some companies, notably in leather goods and fashion, face anxieties about ethics and environmentalism. Advocates of sustainability have targeted groups using rare species and skins; parfumiers have to cater to growing interest in all things organic. Ever fickle, luxury goods have turned near impossible to predict – as the irony of

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