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Danish Analysis on Benetton and Their Promotion

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Fokus på Benetton og deres promotion

14/6/2013

14/6/2013

Thomas Jepsen 2HHH Elev nr: 13

The study examines how the clothing brand United Colors of Benetton promoted themselves when they had Oliviero Toscani hired as their marketing director. Toscani was known for his controversial advertising campaigns for Benetton from 1982-2000. In my study I do an advertising analysis on one of the most famous advertising from Benetton: “The Priest and the Nun”. Toscanis success came because now more than ever we live in a society driven by image. Every day we buy less and less product and more and more image. Toscanis idea was very simple. He took a powerful image, stamped the UCOB logo in a corner, and then you have it. A successful advertising. Benetton’s gained success because their advertisings are not related to their products. It is images of social problems around the world. With a huge increased sale Benetton showed the world, that it could be worthwhile to be political as a company. Especially when we are talking about marketing!

Indholdsfortegnelse Benneton som virksomhed 1 Reklame analyse 4 Konklusion 6 Kilder 7

Jeg har valgt at tage udgangspunkt i tøjproducenten United Colors of Benetton. Jeg har altid selv været fascineret af den ekstreme og fremprovokerende måde som Benetton valgte at markedsføre sig under da de fik fotografen Oliviero Toscani til at styre deres promotion i tiden 1982 til 2000. Benetton gjorde noget unikt, og meget modigt da de fik Toscani til at styre deres promotion. Det var noget reklame verden aldrig havde set før.
Benneton som virksomhed

United Colors of Benetton er en handelsvirksomhed, der blev etableret i 1965 i Italien. Virksomheden producerer tøj, og på nuværende tidspunkt er Europas største tøjproducent. United Colors of Benetton er et af de 4 brands som ligger under Benetton Groups koncernen. Benetton koncernen producerer og distribuerer strikvarer, modetøj og tilbehør til egne butikker, samt andre retailers. Benetton har over 6500 butikker i 120 lande over hele verden. Koncernens omsætning lyder på 2 billioner euro om året. Virksomheden har 9,500 ansatte, og over hele verden er der 30.000 der arbejder med Benneton. De er også på B2B da de udbyder teknologisk knowhow til andre virksomheder. Væsentlige konkurrenter at nævne kan være H&M, ZARA og GAP og derfor betyder at virksomheden er på et red ocean marked. De benytter sig af vækststrategierne markedspenetrering, markedsudvikling og produktudvikling. Derudover benytter de sig af konkurrencestrategien differentiering.

Den verden vi lever i er blevet meget mere brandfokuseret end den har været. Man ikke køber ikke et produkt bare for produktets skyld, men for brandets skyld. Det er ikke bare et en sweater, det er en Gucci Sweater. Brandet skaber en slags identitet for forbrugeren, og den identitet skal forbrugeren kunne associerer sig selv med. Det er her hvor Benetton skildre sig ud og differentier sig i forhold til dens konkurrenter med hensyn til deres reklamer. Siden Oliviero Toscani overtog deres promotion i 1982 og blev reklamedirektør, har han fokuseret på sociale problemer som ligestilling, racisme, AIDS, misbrug af børn. Før 1985 havde Benetton ikke rigtig benyttet sig af reklamer, i hvert fald ikke i sådan en form som Toscani lavede i 1982. Når man tænker Benneton tænker man også Oliviero Toscani. Han er en af de hovedfaktorer der er skyld i at brandet har så stor succes, fordi han fik dem til at differentierer sig. Reklamemæssigt er Benetton i en klasse for sig selv. De skabte et helt specielt image som lagde fokus på verdens sociale problemer. Toscanis strategi var egentligt meget simpel. Tag et stærkt og frembrusende billlede, put logoet i hjørnet og dér havde man det. Minimalistisk og simpelt. Reklamen kommer til at arbejde for sig selv, ved at forbrugeren skal tænke sig til hvad budskabet er i reklamen. Da billedet tit er makabert, kan forbrugerens ”attention” kun blive fanget. Det der gjorde disse reklamer så unikke var at Toscani ikke fokuserede på brandet, men mere på problemet i billledet. Som han selv udtalte til en journalist: ”Jeg sælger ikke tøj, jeg tager bare billeder”. Denne anderledes form for reklame gjorde at Benetton gik fra at være et lille sweater producerende firma, til at være en verdensomspændende pengemaskine. Hver eneste reklame Oliviero lavede for Benetton skabte opmærksomhed i medierne, dvs. at de fik meget public relation ud af det. Det eneste de behøvede var at lave en reklame, og så skulle medierne nok formidle den til omverdenen. Der kom både positiv, og negativ kritik. Det er så her hvor det kan diskuteres om negativ kritik er god kritik. Toscani satte nogen af verdens tabuer op i reklamer. En præst der kysser en nonne, døende AIDS patienter, racisme, et nyfødt barn. Alt sammen noget der ikke snakkes om, men Toscani fangede alles opmærksomhed med at lave reklamer om disse tabuer. Man siger at en reklame har et halvt sekund til at fange opmærksomheden hos forbrugeren. Det kan man nemt sige lykkes for Toscanis reklamer.

Toscani benyttede sig af Avantgarde. Avantgarde er et udtryk for billedkunstnere, forfattere eller politikere mm, der eksperimenterer med avancerede og nye ideer. Formålet ved Avantgarde er at udfordre publikummet som i reklamens tilfælde er kundens norm for opfattelse af verdenen. Toscanis reklamer startede dog meget tuttenuttede, og ikke så provokerende som de udviklede sig til at være i 1990. Emnerne lød som sagt på rasisme, AIDS, den italienske mafia, miljøkatastrofer, smukke og fascinerede billeder og samtidig og ofte ubærlige billeder fra verdens brændpunkter. Det var ofte forskellige former for budskab Toscani gerne ville have hans publikum til at forstå. Hvis man kigger på den mentale opfattelsesproces prøvede Toscani jo helt klar at appellere med en affektiv tilgang. Der var mange følelser i spil i hans reklamer, og mange politiske holdninger kom også indirekte i spil. Det var derfor man ikke kunne andet end at blive fascineret af de reklamebilleder der gik verdenen over i 1990erne. For at komme tilbage til budskabet, var det meget moralsk og følelsesmæssige reklamer. Et moralsk budskab i en Benetton reklame kan for eksempel være reklamer der var i den UNHATE kampagne Benneton kørte i 2011. Det var kendte politikere som Barack Obama og Angela Merkel der blev opsat og kyssede hinanden,. Som kunde kan man få den tanke ”er det her rigtigt, eller forkert?” Det skal dog siges idéen fra denne UNHATE kampagne er kommet af Toscanis ”Præst kysser nonne” reklame som symboliserer nogenlunde det samme. Denne reklame er bare religiøst i stedet for politisk. Så et fælles formål ved den promotion Benetton kører er, at skabe opmærksomhed i form af Avantgarde. At være nytænker. Det der står bag succesen var at Benneton var de første til at bryde normerne for reklame. Deres kendskabsgrad eksploderede, og sikrede en ny form for loyalitet fra kunderne.

For at forstå hvordan Benetton får kundernes opmærksomhed, kan man gå ind og gennemse AIDA modellen i en Benneton reklame. Hvis man tager udgangspunkt i reklamebilledet ”Hearts” fra 1996 har vi igen et meget enkelt og minimalistisk billede. Reklamen forestiller tre helt ens hjerter med teksten (White – Black – Yellow). Denne reklame er karakteristisk for Toscanis reklamer da den har en hvid baggrund, et billede med noget tekst og logoet United Colors of Benneton i højre hjørne. Efter kunden er blevet opmærksom for reklamen, begynder indholdet og budskabet, at cirkulere rundt i kundens hoved. Toscani vægter budskabet i reklamerne meget højt, da kunden skal blive påvirket og derefter få lyst til at købe tøjet. Benettons reklamer løftede også deres brand, da der blev solgt mere efter Toscani trådte til. Kunden får altså et behov for at købe tøjet, fordi de kan associere sig med reklamens budskab. Det ender ud i at kunden træder i handling og køber et Benetton produkt da budskabet i reklamen har været gennemtænkt. Det Benetton sælger deres produkt på er det værdisæt der er bag Benetton og deres reklamer.

Benetton har haft stor succes ved at vælge forskellige sociale problemer i verden, og sætte det på deres reklamebilleder. På den måde opnår de også at ramme en stor og bred målgruppe. Typisk henvender de fleste reklamer sig til de moderne altså det blå og grønne segment i Minerva modellen. De trodser det violette og rosa segment hvor det ofte er det traditionelle og trygge der står til grund for valg af køb. Benetton har benyttet sig af differentieret markedsføring da de får bredt deres målgruppe via alle de forskellige budskaber i deres reklamer. Ved at køre denne indirekte differentieret markedsføringsstrategi har de formået at få et kæmpe mersalg.
Reklame analyse

For at få en bedre forståelse af Benettons reklameindsats og promotion, vil jeg lave en reklameanalyse af billedet fra 1991 ”Priest and Nun.”

* Afsenderen er United Colors of Benetton * Budskabet er at skulle frembringe debat * Diverse modemagasiner, out-door plakater, aviser, internettet * Modtagerene er de ny moderne mennesker, der står imod nogle af verdens sociale problemer * At få en indirekte opmærksomhed igennem medier, og lægge fokus på billedets problem. Toscanis provokation kan også tages i spil.

Ved at bruge kommunikationsmodellen giver det et overskueligt overblik over hvordan reklamen bliver behandlet og modtaget. Modellen ligger også fokus på hvilket medie reklamen bliver bearbejdet i. Når det er en reklame med et kæmpe budskab som er tilfældet ved Benetton, skal medievalget nøje grundlægges. Man er nødt til at vælge et medie hvor modtageren har tid til at opfatte buskabet.

Billedet forestiller en præst som er klædt i sort og en nonne klædt i hvidt, som kysser hinanden intenst og følsomt. Præsten og Nonnen er beskåret, så det kun er deres hoveder man kan se. Det indikerer, at man skal lægge fokus på kysset. Billedet er taget i normalperspektiv så modtageren føler sig i øjenhøjde med Præsten og Nonnen så man er på deres niveau. Billedet lægger sig meget op ad Benettons andre reklamer hvor de typiske karakteristikas enkelt og minimalistisk. Budskabet i reklamen vægter altså igen meget højt. Farverne er også meget enkle, dog skiller det grønne Benetton mærke sig ud i højre hjørne. Farverne mødes i nonnen og præstens ansigt da deres hud og læber rammer hinanden. Præstens placering er bagerst i billedet, det gør at man kan se hele Nonnens ansigt, og kun Præstens kæbe og nakke. Deres læber rammer hinanden i det gyldne snit, som får modtageren til at fokusere på dette punkt, altså det kontroversielle i billedet. Der går også en linke fra Nonnens hovedbeklædning og op til Benetton logoet. Ubevidst bliver modtageren fanget og tvunget til at se op på det grønne Benetton logo. Dette billede har ikke så meget ”hvordan” da der ikke er så meget der kan analyseres i billedet, men der er lagt mere vægt på buskabet og hvad Benetton prøver på ved at opstille billedet.
Ved dette billede prøver Toscani at lave et oprør med kirkens regler. Det er meget provokerende, og katolikkere må have kigget meget skeptisk på sådan en reklame. Det er også modigt gjort af Luciano Benetton , at han tør at gå imod hans eget lands religiøse overbevisninger. Som sagt er Benetton fra Italien, hvor der er mange katolske klostre. Man kunne sagtens formode at dette kunne gå ind og skade brandet. Heldigvis for Benneton har det styrket brandet og konkluderet i mersalg. I dag benytter de stadig reklamer hvor folk kysser hinanden. Kampagnen hedder UNHATE.
Konklusion

Man kan enten synes at Luciano Benetton er gal eller genial når han ansætter en mand som Oliviero Toscani til at styre Benettons promotion. Man kunne forestille sig at nogle folk har boykottet mærket på grund af den kontroversielle markedsføringsstil, men det har alligevel mundet ud i et øget salg. Tiden i dag er også blevet mere moderne end hvad den har været. For 30 siden lagde man meget mere vægt på det rationelle i et produkt, hvorimod i dag er det langt mere vigtigt hvad produktet udtrykker og hvad produktet har af budskab. Forbrugere vil gerne have virksomhederne kommer med et klart budskab som de kan forholde sig til. Flere store virksomheder er begyndt at fokusere på deres CSR, da det booster forbrugernes vilje til at købe produktet, da CSR er så meget i fokus. Man kan så stille spørgsmålet om Benneton har haft succes ved at tjene penge på andres ulykke og elendighed. Svaret på spørgsmålet må være ja. Benetton er i dag et af verdens største tøj brands, og deres mærke United Colors of Benetton hedder det af en grund. De fokuserer på verdens forskelligheder og sætter dem i perspektiv. Man kan derfor konkludere at det er vigtigt for virksomheder at have holdning til omverdenen og udtrykke dette budskab. Især når det gælder markedsføring!

Kilder

Jenrich, Lene m.fl.: Afsætning Niveau A Bind 1 . 1. udg. iTrojka, 2012. (Bog)
Jenrich, Lene m.fl.: Afsætning Niveau A Bind 2 . 1. udg. iTrojka, 2012. (Bog)

DST - Benetton. Udgivet af Den Store Danske. Internetadresse:http://www.denstoredanske.dk/Livsstil,_sport_og_fritid/Bekl%C3%A6dning_og_stil/Mode/Benetton - Besøgt d. 9.6.2013 (Internet)

GADE, Rune: Crossver. I: Ekkofilm, 29.4.2004, s. 1-2. Internetadresse: http://www.ekkofilm.dk/artikler/crossover/ Besøgt d. 9.6.2013 (Artikel)

Benetton - medarbejdere. Udgivet af Benetton. Internetadresse: http://www.benettongroup.com/work-with-us/overview/our-people - Besøgt d. 9.6.2013 (Internet)

Reeh, Regitze: Virkeligheden er god reklame. I: Politiken, 16.2.1992, s. 1-2 (Artikel)

--------------------------------------------
[ 1 ]. http://www.denstoredanske.dk/Livsstil,_sport_og_fritid/Bekl%C3%A6dning_og_stil/Mode/Benetton
[ 2 ]. http://www.benettongroup.com/work-with-us/overview/our-people
[ 3 ]. http://www.ekkofilm.dk/artikler/crossover/

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