Prohibition Timeline& Facts

• 1920: The manufacture, sale, and transportation of liquor (more than 0.5% alcohol by volumn) was made illegal via the 18th Amendment to the Constitution • Ends in 1933
• Owning any item designed to manufacture alcohol was illegal and it set specific fines and jail sentences for violating Prohibition.
• Loophole: nothing about the act included DRINKING alcohol
• Loophole: Since Prohibition went into effect a full year after the 18th Amendment's ratification, many people bought cases of then- legal alcohol and stored them for personal use
. • Loophole: Alcohol consumption was ok if it was prescribed by a doctor. Needless to say, large numbers of new prescriptions were written for alcohol. * Stockmarket crash changes public opinion of alcohol consumption because legal manufacturing would create jobs

The Gibson Girl
The Gibson Girl was tall, slender, and full-chested. She had an exaggerated S-curve torso hape achieved by wearing a corset. Her neck was thin and her hair piled high upon her head, with curls framing her face.

Wigs& Surrealism:
Surrealist headwear wasn’t limited to hats. Wigs played a major role in the movement. Elsa Schiaparelli, the surrealist couturiere of the 2me period, was one of the first to make surrealist wigs. She commissioned many of these by Antoine.

Robe of Style

An alternative silhouette available to women was the Robe de Style, which was inspired by wide-skirted Spanish styles of the early 1600s, and originated by designer Jeanne Lanvin.

Robe de Style Characteristics:
• Full skirt
• Drop waist
• Mostly a fitted bodice • Skirt was supported by petticoats or panniers • sometimes imitated by Callot Soures • Lanvin also designed children’s clothing.

Mass Production of clothing- Civil war

* Civil War- body measurement data collection leads to ‘standardization’ of garments * For women - Hoops, corsets, cloaks, muffs, some shirtwaists was military influenced * Shirtwaists produced in 1880’s

The way clothing was produced and sold began to change. Contributory to these changes were:

* Wide use of sewing machines * Development of sized paper patterns * Technology allowing the cutting of many garment pieces at the same time.

The sewing machine

* 1829 Thimmonier * Chain stitch machine * 1846 Elias Howe * Sewing machine (patented) * 1859 Isaac Singer * Foot treadle; mass production

I think the most the most significant technological innovation for fashion during the 19th century was the sewing machine. At the end of the 18th century the steam engine, the spinning machine and the mechanical loom were developed. This was the start of the industrial revolution. Immense increases in production and a higher efficiency in the production led too drastically falling prices of threads and materials. The quick spreading of the sewing machine in the 1850s made clothes for the masses of the population affordable. Many women bought themselves the sewing machine to sew clothes for the own family. Nevertheless, most of them remained long in debt, because the sewing machine was very expensive. Now the mass production became possible. At last this led to the fact that the fashion was democratized. The fashion did not serve any more only than demarcation sign for the upper layer, but became a whole-social phenomenon.

Dusters

A duster is a light, loose-fitting long coat.
The duster was developed in the 18th Century in North America and Australia. Originally, this coat was much earmarked and was used by workers. At that time, the dusters were produced with up to 10 kilos of weight. These exemplars were tear- resistant and had a protective function.

In the 19th and in the 20th century lighter dusters were increasingly manufactured, which was carried also by the upper- class and often only served as a rain protection, were used while horseback riding or used while rode in open cars.