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In-Plant Training Report
2nd Semester (BCCT)

Brandix College in clothing Technology and Management(dip 16)
K.A. Vidun S. Piyasumana

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INTRODUCTION
I’m a student of Brandix College who is studying College Diploma in Textile Technology &
Management where my name is K.A.Vidun S. Piyasumana. This is the Report of my second semester of my In-Plant Training program.
This In-Plant training will let the diploma batch students to join to different Factories and study the whole process. Since the students are beginners to the field, BCCT provided us a guide line to adjust to this environment and continue that studying with the aid of a
Guide Line.
As I requested some Factories and as the College appointed me, I had to start my InPlant Training in Brandix Green Plant Seeduwa. Commencing on 14th February 2013 I started the Industrial Training for the College Diploma in Clothing Technology &
Management Course under the influence and Coordination by Mr. Dinesh Sampath (HR
Assistant of Brandix Casualwear Seeduwa) with so many supports & advisers.

Initially after walking throughout the factory, I was introduced and guided to each section to study their process, and collect information under the influence of the department chief or Incharge and also from the Minor Staff.
Most of the time I had to subject myself for self study, grab the knowledge by walking to the machine Operators and the staff and also be practical in some operations to get the real idea. So therefore I think I’ve been able to exploit out the maximum privileges from this training and making it a good experience.

Since the factory comprises of a substore and since there isn’t a Fabric Inspection
Department I had to visit Brandix Casualwear Ekala which is the Center of Brandix Group and study according to the guideline with a 3 day training programme. To improve our knowledge we did collect examples, copies of some important documents and pictures.
All of those sources are very valuable for my studies and my project report too.
To make this training period a success we were helped by everyone in Brandix Green
Plant and also Brandix Center Ekala. I would like to thank everyone for their commitment
& the kind support...
K. A. Vidun S Piyasumana (923444459v)
(Student of Brandix College in Textile Technology & Management)
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.......ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS........
Mr. Thayakaran (CEO – Brandix Green Plant Seeduwa)
Mr.Dinesh Sampath (HR Assistant –Human Resource)
HR department who arrange all that facilities,
Manager and all crew of
Production Plant,
Planning department,
Innovation department,
Finishing Department,
The crew of
Cutting Department,
Merchandising Department,
Incharge of
Sample room and the
Crew,
Work Study Department,
The Crew of Fabric Inspection in Brandix Center Ekala,
Sub stores in BGP
&
All the staff members of Brandix Casualwear Seeduwa.

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Contents...
Introduction to Brandix...................................................................................................

5

Brandix Casualwear LTD........................................................................................................ 9
About Factory & History........................................................................................................ 10
Human Resources Department.............................................................................................. 16
Total Process of Garment Manufacture (Merchandiser Department)................................... 24
Sub Stores ............................................................................................................................... 34
Planning Department............................................................................................................. 40
Sample Room.......................................................................................................................... 41
Fabric Inspection.................................................................................................................... 45
Cutting Department............................................................................................................... 49
Production Department......................................................................................................... 60
Finishing Department ............................................................................................................ 74
Work Study Department......................................................................................................... 79
Commercial Department & Engineering and Mechanical Department................................. 81
MIS Department...................................................................................................................... 82
Safety of Factory...................................................................................................................... 82
Needle Control....................................................................................................................................

83

Thanks Giving....................................................................................................................................... 84
Factory Documents to refer.................................................................................................................. 85

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01. Introduction to Brandix
Brandix Lanka is a world recognizes cooperation in textile field. Brandix Lanka Limited is handling various sections of this field and has gone to higher position of in this all sections. For this grandness Brandix has been reworded many occasions. Be an “Inspired Solution” in garment/ textile field keep not only with the logo always archiving higher position while providing good quality popular products to world actually as an inspired solution.
Few of awards that have gained by Brandix are below;










LEED Certification
WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production)
SA8000 (Social Accountability)
Fair Trade
OE100 (Organic Exchange)
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
ISO 9001
ISO 14001
OHSAS 18001 (Occupational Health & Safety Assessment Series)

Other achievements










Sri Lanka's largest apparel exporter and third largest exporter overall for 2007-08, by the
Export Development Board (EDB)
Sri Lanka's largest apparel exporter and second largest exporter overall for 2006-07, by the Export Development Board (EDB)
Presidential Export Awards - Award for Highest Net Foreign Exchange Earner in 2005
Presidential Export Awards - Most Outstanding Exporter in the Apparel Sector in 2005
Brandix Finishing, the Group's flagship 'Green' company, was recognised by a
Community Leader Silver Award in 2005 for Waste Minimisation Practices, a President's
Environment Award in 2005 for Industrial Environmental Excellence and ISO 14001:2004 certification Most Outstanding Exporter Award - National Awards for Export Excellence (NAEE) in
2003
Gold Award in the Apparel Sector - National Awards for Export Excellence (NAEE) in
2003
The Award for Excellence in Social Responsibility in the 'Preservation of the
Environment' category from the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) presented to A&E Lanka

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Selected as a success story in using Cleaner Production Techniques (CPT) in the textile finishing sector with its case study being presented at the Directors' meeting of National
Cleaner.

Brandix group has strong competencies in product development, manufacturing and marketing, are complimented by our most significant advantage in textiles. They make their own fabric, threads, buttons and hangers. And also provide customers with R&D, washing, dyeing, finishing, and quality control services which has good standard.
Below we can see the milestone that Brandix came through since 1972 from the beginning;


















1972- Established Lux Shirts (Pvt.) Ltd.
1981 -Acquired Kuruwita Textile Mills Ltd
1986 -Acquired LM Apparel (Pvt) Ltd
1990- Thread joint venture forms Manchester Yarn & Thread (Pvt) Ltd; later renamed as American & Efird Lanka (Pvt) Ltd
1991- Acquired Gil Garments (Pvt) Ltd
1992- Acquired Phoenix Fashions (Pvt) Ltd Established Lux Shirts Kahawatta (Pvt) Ltd
Acquired Kuruwita Manchester Textile Mills Ltd. 1993 Commissioned Kuruwita
Textile Plant. Established LM Collections (Pvt) Ltd .Acquired Eden Fashions (Pvt) Ltd
Formed Mast Lanka (Pvt) Ltd
1996- Established Eden Fashions (Maldives), Pte. Ltd. Invested in Ocean Lanka (Pvt)
Ltd. Established Finitex Textile Finishing (Pvt) Ltd. Established Phoenix College of
Clothing Technology (Pvt) Ltd
1998- Buttons joint venture forms DTM Buttons (Pvt) Ltd.
1999- Established Phoenix Clothing (Pvt) Ltd
2003- Strategic acquisition of Mast Industries' equity interests in our joint-ventures
Merger with the Jewelex Group. Restructure of Brandix Group into Apparel, Textile and Accessories sectors
2005- Established the Brandix Centre of Inspiration Established the Automated
Denim Plant Established Brandix Activewear Ltd MOU signed with Government of
India for Brandix Apparel City, India Brandix India Apparel City: launch of first manufacturing unit. Garment Dyeing Joint-Venture: Stevensons Lanka.
2007- Brandix was ranked as the country's largest apparel exporter for 2006-07 by the Export Development Board, Sri Lanka.
2008- Brandix was once again ranked as the country's largest apparel exporter for
2007-08 by theExport Development Board, Sri Lanka. The newly converted Brandix
Eco Centre in Seeduwa was ceremonially inaugurated in April. The Brandix
Casualwear plant in Seeduwa achieved a global first in August when it received the
Platinum rating under the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED)
Green Building Rating System of the US Green Building Council (USGBC).

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2009 Brandix Lanka was rated Platinum in the Corporate Accountability Rating
Survey. The Brandix Green Project was judged as the National Winner for Sri Lanka at the Energy Globe Awards 2008 presented by the Energy Globe Foundation.
Brandix Lanka Limited won the Corporate Social Responsibility Award presented by the YPO-WPO Social Enterprise Network, USA. Textured Jersey launched the inregion fleece programme for Victoria's Secret PINK. Brandix was commended by the
United Nations Global Compact as an example of good CSR practice and compliance with the principles of the UNGC.

 Commerce recognized Brandix to be among the Top 10 Best Corporate
Citizens for the year 2009.
 2010 The "Brandix Activewear" Company name was transformed to
"Brandix Essentials" in order to reflect the change in product focus, specialization and future business direction. Brandix Lanka was rated
Gold in the Corporate Accountability Rating Survey. Brandix India
Apparel City: formal inauguration at Vishakhapatnam, Andhra Pradesh.
Brandix Shared Services Centre receives ISO 9001:2008 certification.
Brandix wins National Energy Efficiency Award in Large Scale
Manufacturing category at the first ever Sri Lanka National Energy
Efficiency Awards. Brandix CEO Ashroff Omar addresses prestigious
Centenary World Conference of The Textile Institute in Manchester.
 2011 Brandix was commended by the National Blood Transfusion Service for conducting the largest blood donation of 2010 by a single entity.
Comfortwear (Pvt) Ltd, established as a joint venture partnership, becomes a fully-owned subsidiary of Brandix. The newly created cluster will operate under the name "Brandix Lingerie", having re-directed its business focus in specializing in the manufacture & supply of Bra coordinates to leading global brands. Brandix Mercury Asia receives ISO
27001:2005 certification. Brandix Lanka was awarded the prestigious
ISO/IEC 27001:2005 certification for practicing the Information Security
Management System (ISMS). Brandix was recognized as 'Asia's Best
Brand' and 'Asia's Best Employer Brand' at the 2011 CMO Asia Awards for Excellence in Branding & Marketing. Brandix Casualwear, Ratmalana received the Silver Flame and was also the highest rated facility in the
‘Large Scale Manufacturing’ category, whilst Phoenix Industries received the Bronze Flame in the same category at the second Sri Lanka National
Energy Efficiency Awards ceremony.
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Divisions of Brandix Group
• Brandix casual wear limited
• Brandix intimate apparel limited
• Brandix essentials limited
• Comfort wear limited

Apparel

• Linear clothing limited
• Sintesi limited
• Brandix finishing limited
• Stevenson Lanka limited

• Brandix textiles limited
• Ocean Lanka limited

Fabric

• Textured jersey limited
• Quenby Lanka prints (pvt) limited

• American & Efird Lanka limited
• T&S buttons limited

Accessories

• Brandix hangers limited

This in-plant training was held at Brandix Casualwear Seeduwa plant one of the main plant of Brandix Casualwear Limited.

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2. About Brandix Casualwear Ltd

Brandix Casualwear Ltd is a combination or network of five factories. Those are:  Brandix Casualwear Ea-kala
 Brandix Casualwear Rathmalana
 Brandix Casualwear Awissawella
 Brandix Casualwear Girithale
 Brandix Casualwear Seeduwa Among these factories Brandix Casualwear
Ea-kala is the center that coordinates the whole process of Brandix
Casualwear Ltd. This centralized situation is given many important operations and functions of all factories to this center.
Actually this center has ability to manage all capacity of those factories without rushing to the shipment dates. So cluster is keeping their production in this way. Mainly Brandix Casualwear Ltd is producing trousers and pants for ladies & gentlemen. It can be classified like, normal trousers, pocket trousers, short trousers. Main Buyers around the Casualwear Warnaco,
 M&S,
 banana republic (BR) ,
 Tesco,


Old Navy

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3. About the Factory (BGP) & History

About Brandix Green Plant Seeduwa:-



Brandix Green Plant or Brandix Casualwear Seeduwa is located in Negambo Road
Seeduwa where the address comes as No.309, Colombo Road, Seeduwa.

 This is an Eco- Friendly Factory which comprises of:
 2 Sewing Production Plants (Department):- consist of 12 Production Lines which are controlled by one Production Manager (Mr. Priyal) and two Plant In charge Officers (Mr. NIranjan & Mrs. Chintha) with 12 Supervisors to each line and 8 mechanics.
 1 Finishing Department: - Comprises with 6 U shaped Lines, 1 Finishing
Manager, 2 in charge Officers, 2 Factory Auditors, 1 Logistic Office, Cartoon
Store and 1 Warehouse.
 1Cutting Department:-5 lines, 2 automated Gerber Cutting lines, 3Manual
Layered Lines,4 Numbering lines and 1 Fusing Line. Here there is a Marker
Drawing Office, Engineering Office under one Cutting Manager.
 Merchandising Department: - 2 Merchandising Managers for Warnaco and Old
Navy with 1 Bulk Merchant, 1 Product Development Merchant,3 Supply Chain
Merchants.
 Innovation Department :- With 5 member Mechanics under Engineer Mr.
Ranaweera(In charge in Developing Machines) and Mr. Wasantha (Engineer In charge in Programming)

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 HR Department:- Comprised with 5 officers, HR Manager(Mrs Sandya), &
Hr Assistant (Mr. Dinesh Sampath)

 Training School: - A training school with 8 sewing Machines Guidance under
Mrs. Ranjani. Here Newcomers will be trained for 1 week with fluency of different machines. Initially the workers will be subjected to some interviews such as Time Accuracy, Handling, and Lecture to explain Machine Mechanism.

 Work-study Department: - Mrs.Devika will calibrate the S.M.V in the whole
Plant under the system of GSD.

 Green Department: - And an added Department which is unique to this factory which control and Maintains the Green Process throughout the whole Factory under Green Manager Mrs. Manojani.

 Planning Department

 Finance Department

 IT Department

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Engineers

Organisational
Chart

Innovation
Team
Mechanical
Team

Councillor

SMO (Senior
Main Operation
Manger)

Admin Officers &
Recruit Officers

Cleaning Staff

Canteen Staff

Auditor

Finishing Manager

CEO

Co-ordinator

HR Manager

Head of I.E &
Plant Manager

Quality Assurance
Manager
Supervisor

Finance
Manager

Production Manager
Merchandising
Managers &
Merchants

Cutting
Supervisor
Recorder

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Plant Layout

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About the Company History and About the Plant

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 There are around 823 sewing machines in the factory with 12 Automated Welt machines. When we consider the Sewing Plant there is one automated Line (line no. 13).Here specially innovated machines are being produced by engineers and are on work in line no. 13.

 Brandix Casualwear Seeduwa exports garments to markets such as U.S.A,
Canada, Japan, & UK. Normally they exports Pants and shorts. Earlier during
M&S buyer’s duration. The factory produced shirts. As I found the factory doesn’t work for M&S buyer presently.

 There are about 652 employees working currently(2013) at Brandix Green Plant





under the Job Categories of :
1.Machine Operators
2.Helpers
3.Supervisor
4.Staff Members

 Brandix Casual wear Seeduwa is recommended for two main buyers. Those are:
- 1. WARNACO (CHAPS)
2.OLD NAVY
During my Last week of training programme, I found out that there were new buyers coming into the business in Seeduwa Factory.
Ex. Tesco
 Last year (2012) 2962555 garment pieces were exported by the factory mainly to U.S.A and Canada.
 Absentism :- There is a Absentism percentage around 6%

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3 .Human Resource Department
When we consider about company environment there are 5Ms that really important to that company. Those are Material, Method, Money, Machine,
Men. Among those 5Ms Men (Human Recourse) is the main element that should be managed.
As the requirements of company HR Department are formed to manage the individual employees for complete tasks in perfect way. Mainly they perform below accomplishments as contribution for the successful final result.

 Recruiting process (selection, arrange work groups, introduce).
 Maintaining employees files, data-base.
 Salary increment & gratuity.
 Recording attendance, time & leaves.


Reverence handling process.



Motivation programs.

 Organize employees training & welfare things.


Handling communications of factory. To archive such kind of works perfectly the structure of Human Recourse Department has organized like below hierarchy.

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The Management
Assistant HR Manager
HR officers
HR Manager

HR Assistant
HR trainees

Assistant HR
Manager

Executive

HR Officers

HR Assistant

HR Trainees

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Brief Explanation of Employee Recruiting Process.
Recruiting employee is one of main task of HR department. It is the responsibility of HR Department that should arrange the required number of employees according to the plan of Planning Department. Also get the suitable employees to the vacant positions. So they maintain static strategies for this recruiting. Applications can be called by advertisement, banners, e-mails & internet for the vacancies. Then HR Department selects suitable applications into the criteria. After that HR Department conduct an interview. In this interview board have some standards & default members present. They are HRM or some responsible person from HR Department, Nurse, Counsellor, Suitable person from the department that employee retrieve.
After the interview selected employees are directed to The Induction Program.
In this program new employee will be given overall knowledge about:
• Company
• Employees Job Description (JD)
• Job Information
• Motivation Programs
• Introduce to other staff members
There is also another important part here. That is maintaining employee’s files.
Here each employee has a document file which contain such documents such as Application Form, Employee Information Sheet, Appointment Letter, Birth
Certificate, Education Certificate, ID Copy, Other relevant certifications like
Character Certificates, B Card Forms (for EPF & ETF) and After 6 months conformation letter.
There is also a way to recruit temporary workers when factory needs more employees to proceed. HR Department manages few links that can obtain workers easily. This kind of situation is not coming always (management of carder is discussed in Work-Study Department).
Those things are the points that should mention in this recruiting process.
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Brief About Salaries & Payments
In this factory all employees have been divided to two groups as “Direct” &
“Indirect”. There are only Machine Operators in this direct section & rest of all
(helpers, office staff, factory staff, executives & managers) are taken as indirect employees. Salaries of Indirect employees are given in different kind of criteria. But the salary paying method of direct employees is depend on the grade that employee earn.
 A Grade

- 11300/=

 C Grade

- 10300/=

 Non Grade - 9300/=
 Trainees - 8500/= and also gratuity can have in below system.
 After 1 year will be given 1 month bones.
 After 10 year will be given 5 month bones. As the requirement of government HR Department set the EPF (salary of each employee 8% will be taken from employee’s salary & another 12% salary amount is given by company) and ETF (take 3% of salary from employee). Those things are proceed in HR Department as well as maintaining employee’s files. In-plant Training Report of K. A. Vidun S. Piyasumana

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Counting the Absent Employees
 There is another responsibility of HR Department is generate the report of absent employees daily. That report creates after 07:30am. They get that information through the bar- code attendance marking system & also take the details from production line supervisors.
 If some employee wants to take a leave there is method that is called Preapproved Leave. That particular employee should inform that at least before one day. So they should fill the green paper to inform HR Department & other authorities.  There is also Post-approved Leave. If some employee unable to come or had to get a leave without informing that employee’s line supervisor or any other relevant person should fill the yellow paper to inform HR Department. When that employee returns he/she must fill the pink paper to clamed that leaves.
 Absent percentage of factory they have define as manageable one is below 6% but usually it runs more than 10-12% that percentage effects to the production
& it should be reduced.

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Handling Labour Turn Over
 Mainly in this factory have two types of labour turn over. Employees resigning from their jobs for many reasons but the factory facing trouble to find a proper another employee for that post. Because the human power is the most important to any workplace.
 VOP (Vocational off Post) is one of system that employee resigning from their jobs. In this way they just leave the job without informing. So there is an employee has been absent for 4 days HR Department send a letter to inform about the absent and how effective is it to the factory.
 If that letter enough to the response BCA let that employee to come again.
But if it isn’t happen another letter will be sent after 10 days. That letter says that employee has been fired from his/her job and no way to retake you to here. Also inform how to take ETF, EPF and also salaries to take. In case of long VOP they aren’t paid their salaries. Most of VOPs are the new comers to the factory that have small knowledge and value of their jobs.
 Resigning with informing to the HR Department, they should inform exactly before one month form their resigning date. They have to work that last month and HR Department with other higher levels of management asking from that employee about the reasons to resign and try to control those things to let employee work freely. If he/she agreed to work again they can work again (letter is deactivated).
 These are the main systems employees resign from their valuable job. This
LTO (labour turn over) percentage should be below 2.5% but here it is flying more than 6%.

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Hierarchy to Solve Employees Problems
Problem of Employee

Sectional Head/
Supervisor

If no answer within2 days

Ask Manager of the Department

If no answer within 2 Days

Inform Factory
Manager

If no answer within 1 Day

Inform H.R.M or S.M.O

Counsellor

If no answer within 1 Week

Welfare Society
Members

If no answer within 30 Days

Inform Senior Managers or
Directors

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Medical Center
 Medical Center is playing such an important role in here. There are two nurses available to any medical support during the working hours.
Doctor comes their every working day in evening for check the patients.
 Also this medical center checks the canteen environment and care of
Desires in the factory area. Also in every interview this nurses at medical center check them and submit a report of them.

These are the main objectives of HR Department that are proceeding as the compliment for having better working surround with other workers. And also they maintain a radio channel and let them work while enjoying beautiful songs. And also they cash Reward the best Line for best production and good incentive Gainers. Pregnant Mothers will be daily nursed and given special facilities by the Factory as well as a Pregnancy Leave.

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3.Merchandising Department

Merchandiser: Merchandiser is the interface between Buyer & Exporter. He is the responsible from order analysis to shipment. So Merchandising is the very valuable department in the Apparel Industry.

Merchandising Department: Merchandising is the department which mediates marketing and production departments. Sometimes, merchandising department will have to do costing and pricing also. In any case, the merchandiser is the person whose responsibility is to execute the orders perfectly as per the costing and pricing.
So it is a very valuable department.

Following are some of the main responsibilities of merchandisers.















Internal & external communication,
Sampling,
Lab dips,
Accessories & trims,
Preparing internal order sheets,
Preparing purchase orders,
Advising and assisting production,
Advising quality department about quality level,
Mediating production and quality departments,
Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
Helping documentation department,
Taking responsibility for inspections and
Following shipment.

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Brandix Green Plant Seeduwa comprises of 5 Merchandisers divided in to two teams under two Senior Merchandising Managers For two main Buyers.

OLD NAVY

WARNACO

BULK MERCHANT

SUPPLY CHAIN MERCHANT

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
MERCHANT

I would like to choose and get a start form merchandising department to demarcate how the merchandising department influence in the total process of the factory and withhold the business by getting orders as a start.
Mainly in this section I try to describe the role of a Merchandiser (from
Merchandising Department) and how merchandiser handles this process. In some stages I took a basic trouser of OLD NAVY (style number: 633496) which is driven PO wise in our factory. So I took this an example. In merchandising department the initial step is the Order Placement explained in the next page.

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Order Placement

When a buyer comes to Brandix Casualwear Seeduwa with a huge order of a trouser, directly buyer deals with Merchandisers in Merchandising
Department. Merchandiser handles the big part and responsibilities while
Brandix Casualwear going through this production path.
Buyer comes to merchandiser of Brandix Casualwear with a sample garment or sketched requirement (Tech Pack). If there is no Tech Pack, merchandiser should prepare one for reference in further stages. Generally there is one merchandiser who handles one buyer and his styles. Then merchandisers of merchandising department follow those instructions to deal with other parts in
Casualwear plant.
When buyer gives the new styles, merchant contacts the work-study department and the responsibility of Work-Study Department is costing the garment, choose the SMV (stranded minute value) and cost for the one garment as the requirements of buyer. Then through the merchant it is sent for approval. Also buyer has some other options with the changers of few operations. Besides that also The Tech Pack sent to Production Development Department and Sampling Department. They do the all development parts and give the details to the process of costing for the approval. And also Planning
Department report (Mr. Kanishka) Plan and say when will be the order finished according to their capacities. This statement depends on the capacity of Brandix Casualwear cluster.
Most Important thing is that the buyer still keeps in touch with his new style and he needs to be confirmed whether he is dealing with the exactly profitable crew. Not only profitable they search the reputation of the group that for the quality. After fixing all this send those to buyer. Buyer places the comments on tech pack with approvals. While buyer says “ok” this process will happen in few times. Then buyer conform the style & place the confirmed order as Purchase
Order which is the 1st set to be sold.

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In this stage merchandiser should clear the delivery date, purchasing items/ fabric type, colours likewise. Then the Tech Pack is completed for further process. After the confirmation of the order buyer and merchandiser fixes the delivery dates, quantity etc.
Then merchandise joins with Industrial Engineering Department arrange RA
Meeting (Risk Analyzes Meeting). In this particular time period small percentage of selected fabric has been imported. After the RA meeting Sample
Room sewing a 1st fit sample using correct fabrics but there will be different trims. About RA Meeting
RA Meeting is organized by IE Department as on above time period.
Participants are:







Production Department
Quality Department
Sample Room
Technical Department
Work-Study Department
Mechanical Department.

In this RA meeting they will start analyzing the garment, Searching for any improvement can they do, Give some suggestions about this garment. End of
RA Meeting that finished sample (1st fit sample) send to buyer through the merchandiser for approval.

Buyer checks this sample and gives his comments, additional suggestions and approval to use it as a reference sample, it is called Green Tag or Red Tag sample (depends on buyer, they define it using few names).

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Purchasing of Fabric & Trims

There are few stages in this sampling stage. But when we follow the total process, this stage contains some purchasing.
Normally 60 days are given for buying/purchasing Fabric and Trims. This allocated time contains inspection time and other preparations. 30 days allocated for sewing. In this allocated time merchandiser has to deal with suppliers. This is normally done by Supply Chain Merchandisers.
If buyer had mention about the suppliers. Supply Chain Merchant just follows them and does the purchases. Otherwise the merchant can select the best suppliers according to their measurements (asking about quality and low cost for unites) and also merchant do bargain about price. It matters to the profit.
These buying / purchasing details are given to the buyer for his approval by the relevant merchant merchandiser.
Suppliers can be paid in two different ways. These payments are handled by
Accounts Department. They are as follows:

1. One system is called LC (Letter of Credit):-in this system payment is given after buyer (this time Brandix Casualwear buys Fabric & Trims) clears them from ship.
2. Another system is called DP (Documents on Payments); in this system it will proceed to a Bank to Bank Payment.

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Inspections
10 days for in house these items to Brandix Casualwear Ekala to the Fabric
Inspection Department. There is a day called FI Date which means fabric inhouse date. This day stands to the arrival of total fabric needs for POs. While they receive this fabric and trims to the Stores they arrange inspection for these items and fabric.
All of these inspection reports must be archive so that marks are been given.
Merchandiser must check all these reports consist with in-house details.

Please Note:-More details of fabric inspection will be elaborated in the Fabric
Inspection Section.

Trim Card
Trim card is created in this stage by using correct threads, labels, zippers, buttons and other accessories which use to garment according to garment colour wise and sizes. There must be attaching every part as on trim card.
This trim card better to be create two days before the PCD (Production Cut
Date). A Trim Card is showed in the next page.

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Trim Card

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Pre-Production Meeting (PP Meeting)
After set all those things they ready for the production. Before that Industrial
Engineering Department (some time Work Study Department) arrange that PP
Meeting. Participants of PP Meeting are;















Merchandiser
Production Manager
Quality Manager
Finishing Manager
Mechanical Incharge
Planning Department
Supervisor
Quality Supervisors
Work Study Officer
Plant Cutting Supervisor
Store Incharge
Technical Incharge
Washing Plant officer
If there any other special functions like Embroinding, printing parts that plan have to represent this meeting.

They gather to finalize the garment before production. They analyze the path of process start to end. Here is the finalizing point and give the introductions all kind of participants. They want to submit that direct comments from these parts and made the discussion about this product.
 In order to hold the meeting, the following items must be available:
Green tag sample (Approved sample)
 Trim card (approved for bulk production)
 Fabric swatch (approved for bulk production) including shade bands.
Swatch must clearly define face side with approval stamp
 Approved wash standards
 Each department is responsible for providing the relevant information/items In-plant Training Report of K. A. Vidun S. Piyasumana

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Mainly discuss about Order Quantity (PO details), Important Quality Points,
Inspection Methods, Fabric details, Delivery Dates, Trims, Threads, SPI details,
Fusing Parts, Washing Method, Shade Approvals, Packing Details, etc.
After this PP Meeting IE Department release that PP Minute Note. This note contains Buyer, Merchandiser, Style no, PP Meeting Date, Description about garment as on above discussion, Comments, etc.
If there is any doubts to anybody about any section they place 3Ws (What,
Who, When) for each problem. Then the mentioned person must answer to that problem. PP minute note also contain that.
After that Sample Room produce PP Reference Sample. And also they create bulk sample based on all sizes then send them to buyer

Please Note: - Process of sample room will be explained just after explaining the Merchandising Department.

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Factory Pilot Run
If a buyer needs a pilot-run there will be more than 100-150 pieces sewing in sample production. Then buyer approves them or gives some comments to be fixed. Factory has to proceed with production once Factory PP Sample is approved. Cutting room must ensure a minimum pilot is cut, 10 pieces per size to be issued for style introduction. If fusing is required, check fusing conditions and shrinkage at this stage.
Findings are recorded. Sewing floor proceeds with style introduction ensuring that all pieces are fed through the line. Sewing floor starts the sewing of the pilot pieces following the technical specifications.

Production
After the arrangement of all the things these imported fabrics are cut on FC
Date (Fabric Cut Date). Then does numbering which helps to avoid from different shade comes. Next step is sewing in the production line then send to
Washing Plant (if it need, based on tech pack) then return to Finishing Section.
They pack them well and set to the Cartons.

Finishing & Dispatch
After set that total number of cartons for shipment PO buyer does the Final
Inspection is done and give the approval or select the appropriate action to be taken (if there are more faults there will be a 100% re-check) to the order.
Then place EDI (electronic dispatch interface) sticker to every carton.
Then sent them to the harbour for shipping. Throughout this total process
Merchandiser check that everything and make sure shipment can be produce on date or above. If there was some delay merchandiser should take responsibility of that and do airfreight with having lost. Buyer also clams his payments through LC (letter of Credit) or DP (documents on payments).
Account and Finance Department handle these payments.
‘’This is a brief description about total process of garment and basically
MERCHANDISER plays big roll here. Not only that I haven’t mention some departments in detail. Those will also be demarcated as you proceed. Then we have an idea of production path and now will move into the other departments in sequence.’’
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Sub- Stores
Before I explain about the Sub-stores I would like to explain the Main Stores located in the Brandix Center Ekala. Brandix Casualwear main stores are centralized part in the cluster. This main store is placed on Ea-kala center. Also each factory in Brandix Casualwear has a store area for trim parts and threads.
When we consider about the main process of Store number of functions happen because there have responsibility of Change the Ownership.
There are 3 main parts in the sub -stores.
I.

Trim Stores - Stores Accessories like labels, elastics, buttons, zippers etc.

II.

Fabric – Fabric Rolls

III.

Maintenances - Needles, Machine and Spear parts.

As on factory requirement issue that stored things without having any trouble is the important when we talk about Store Section. To perform this issuing part Sub -Stores made three function:

 Good Receiving


Storing



Issuing.

When new styles arrive to factory those garments contain different trim parts.
According to the PO number, size change and colour variations, Merchandiser create Fabric Trim Requirement Sheet for Sub Stores Incharge (Mr. Sanjay) and use of further requirements. When the sub-store receives some items with those items in the next page should be completed.

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Goods that are stored in the sub – Stores are;
a) Buttons
b) Zippers
c) Threads
d) Labels
e) Elastics
f) Velcro Tapes
*Average intake of goods and consumption per month will depend on the monthly plan.

Issue Note
Normally an issue note will be released from the main stores with the stores with the supplied goods to the substore at Seeduwa. Since it is a substore at
Seeduwa factory it won’t issue another issue note, they just write and note it on a book by getting certifications and will be sent to the production lines with the required goods.

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Gate Pass
- AOD (Advice of dispatch for any kind of import items)
- DAN (Delivery advice note for to return send items of factory)
- RRN (Return replacement note for to return send items)

 Invoice Document
- Invoice or bill that came through Commercial Department.
 Approval of BOI gate.
- If it is not there bulk not valid for quality damage return.

(Above details are explained in detail in the next page)

Leading Suppliers
 Threads A&E
 Buttons T&S
 Zippers YKK
 Labels Shore to Shore

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GRN:-

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Quarantine area
This is the area that items placed until they get checked. Only 24 hours is approved to keep them here and supplier asks for a singed document to confirm that.
GRN: - (Goods received note)
First the merchandiser place a purchase order to a specified supplier. After the goods are been supplied to the main stores @ Brandix Ekala, the goods will be undergone through a suitable inspection and deliver the required goods to the sub stores @ BCS (Brandix Casual wear Seeduwa).The in charge person in the sub store will recheck the received goods while unloading and entering a GRN to the Brandix system to confirm that the goods are received successfully.

Gate Passes:When goods are been transferred from outside the factory premises for situations like;
1) When goods are been ordered by another factory.
2) To resend the damaged goods an authorized pass is issued named as a Gate Pass.
Delivery Advises:Delivery Advise is a note which is been issued from a factory to be sent to another factory from a certain department including item category.

Return Replacement note:If supplied goods been received to the stores of a factory with insufficient number of goods a return replacement note to replace those goods will be issued from the stores to the supplier.

Invoice: - A commercial document issued by a seller to a buyer indicating the products, quantity and price or service rendered.

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Trim & Fabric Store Process

In-house/ Receive Fabric and Trims

Take head Ends
Quality inspection

Roller Numbering

Inspection
(In 48 hours)

Quantity Check

Cut head ends for Shrinkage
& Shades

Measure, take
Shrinkage & Shades

Store

Relax

Past the number & place to Location

Send to cut
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Good Storing

Good Issuing

40

PLANNING DEPARTMENT

 This department is always a busy department. In Brandix Casual wear
Seeduwa only one Planner work for the time being. Planning is done with the aid of several software’s.
 General process of planning department is making the plan of production according to the PO, Delivery date of style and Capacity of factory.  Using those details they create Tentative Plan.

 Work Study Department checks it and obtains Pre Layout using these details and also using the details of:
 Total Cadre,
 Efficiency Level,
 Total Standard Minute Value.

 After receiving that Pre Layout, planning department creates Final
Production Plan.



In the Production plan, it will Indicate the :









Special Operations
Plan Cut Date
Oder Quantity
Machine Operator SMV
Cut Date
Numbering & Fusing
1st Line in
1st Line out etc.

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Sample Room
I would like to Demarcate Sample room as a Main artery of the Brandix Casual wear Seeduwa since it plays a major role in the total process.
 Concept sample
 Salesmen sample
 Production sample
And other known samples which I’ve been through are: Photo Sample
 Fit Sample
 Wash test Sample


Pre production Sample
Sample Approval Procedure

 After the relevant order had been granted by the buyer from a customer the buyer will subject that order to a specific recommended factory where the factory will conduct a handover meeting with a suitable Tec pack produced by the buyer. With respect to the initial tec pack the factory sample room which is known to be the “heart of the factory” will produce the 1st sample known as Proto sample.
 The sample should be produced and created to a good standard with analysing the fabric quality, thread structure, prints, and types of buttons.
By the way product screening meeting is conducted with respect to the sample produced to decide whether the order can be taken/accepted or not.(This is done by the development merchant, Merchandiser.) Then the proto sample will be sent to the buyer will request for a fit sample.

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 First piece sample/colour sample is produced to try out in washing. Next the fit sample is created after undergoing a shrinkage tester and will produce fit sample with a very good accuracy and sent to the buyer. The buyer will subject the sample to his modeller to fit on and find any defects. Likewise he will have a feedback to the sample room in charge with many comments to review. Then the 2nd fit sample is produced and vice versa until the buyer will purchase the order.
 By the time the factory will prepare the bulk necessary by supplying the goods with guidance by the Supply Chain Merchandiser. Initially a handover meeting is conducted and the sample making procedure first commenced by the relevant merchant by a weekly sample room booking with the required materials for the samples.
 Then the Sample room coordinator or the merchant will hand over a SRF
(Sample request form) to the pattern maker. Pattern maker makes the pattern and the fabric is cut under the construction of technical manager.
Then he/she will explain about the pattern to the sewing people and machine operators. After making the samples they send them to a washing plant as, mentioned below.
 Next a pre production meeting is conducted just after the wash test normally known as shrinkage testing where the samples were sent to
Ratmalane Finishing or Awissawella Washing Plant from all colours. Then if the sample is in a good state the buyer will send the approval for the cut. But as above in the pre production meeting they will discuss and analyse the risk while the production is carried out.


As soon as the buyer approve for the production the factory will undergo a pilot run to assume the risk and finally the bulk will be subjected through the process. After the Pre production meeting some samples are been sent to BIAC (Brandix India Apparel City), Sri Lankan Buying Office,
New York and Canada to prove and agree to release the bulk.

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Daily Production of Sample room – 16 samples
400 samples per month ~ SMV 30 above samples.

 Note: - They test fabric & Garments from BV in
Sri Lanka which is an international approved testing place.
 FPT – Fabric Pull test report
 MTL – for garments.

Zipper
Label
Button
Colour Fastness
Pockets

They test those things in MLT testing laboratory.

 GPT – Garment Pull test specially for kids wear and button pull test to stop non metal weary.
 The fabric that is taken to make the PP sample is been tested for the care label constructions.

After that the labels are been ordered by the sellers.

Sample Costing
(No. of people in sample room X monthly salary for a person) + Other expenses
No. of samples

Other expenses –

1. Electrical expenses
2. Material expenses
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Main functions of the Sample Room are
Making buyer approval samples called Proto Sample original sample or on sketches measurements. Also Sample Room collaboration with Patten Making
Department, Garber Room and Work Study Department (also called as IED) create samples for;
 Costing1


Working out fabric consumption per garment for costing and fabric booking (according to the Tech Pack)



Further Development to the garment



Patten Development to bulk (grading for different bulk) Sample room making single size (based size) patterns for approval of the samples.



Sample room provide FIT samples (1st fit, 2nd fit). Once the Sample size is approved, making grade size samples. And also as we mention at the total process sample room sewing that Green Tag Sample (according to the bulk),
Pre Production Sample (according to buyer’s requirement).

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Fabric Inspection Department
I must note here that her isn’t a Fabric Inspection Department at Seeduwa
Brandix. However we thought of visiting the Brandix Center Ekala which is a centralised Factory where it had a Fabric Inspection Department. We granted
Permission from Brandix Center Ekala and trained there for around 3 days studying on the area of Fabric Inspection.
 Select 10% from the ordered bulk randomly according to the assembled dye lots
 Separate 2 yards from each fabric out from the 10%% for other testing’s like shrinkage and colourfastness. 2 yards of the fabric is known as head ends.  Sometimes head ends are been sent by the buyer or supplier to save time and increase productivity by finishing the necessary tests to accommodate the approvals..
 They use a 4 point system which gives points for the fabric faults.

FOUR POINT SYSTEM

 0-3’’ – 1 point
 3’’-6’’- 2points
 6’’-9’’ – 3 points
 9’’ < 4 points(normally comprises of unbendable defects)
 Finally they calculate the total points by using following equations.
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 The buyer will allocate a specific number of points to the fabric and if the fabric exceeds the allocated number of points after the inspection the fabric will be rejected. And if the fabric gets points below the point limiting level then the fabric is accepted for cutting.
 Next the fabric will be ready for the shrinkage test and the fabric will be prepared in a specific way according to the shading. Some fabric rolls may differ in fabric shading. Out from the 10% fabric pieces are cut down to length and width wise with 36’’ and by placing two fabrics a barrel shaped structure is created and sent to washing plant.

 The fabric pieces will be marked by using a shrinkage board.

 After washing sometimes the shading effect present in the fabric barrel will be balanced after washing and we can observe any shrinkage present. Next the barrel shaped fabric structure is separated from the overlocked position.

 And next the fabric pieces will be subjected to segregation are and will be checked under different frequencies of light conditions and the fabric pieces will be aligned according to lighter to darker colour.

 Then the lot will be grouped according to the colour tone and master pieces are collected to create a SHADE BAND.

Segregation Process under different Light
Frequencies.

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Other Checking’s and Testing’s

1. Skew and Bowing Checking
2.Testing: FPT – Fabric
 GPT –Garment Pull Test
Note: - These testing’s are done only by GAP buyers for the first shipment.

 Tearing Test
 Tensile Test
 Light fastness
 Colour Fastness Test
 Abrasion Test
 Elongation Test



Fabric Reject Percentage

 Fabric reject percentage will differ always according to roll wise as I found from BGP (Brandix Green Plant Seeduwa).

 As I observed around 2% fabric rolls were rejected on that day. (20/03/2013)
 Some fabric rolls comprise of simple damages therefore they will be re corrected without letting them to be rejected and thrown away.

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Fabric and Trim Inspection and Testing
In fabric inspection they check 8% - 10% of rollers under inspection machine.
Mainly they checked damages of fabric, width of fabric and length of fabric.
Conceder about damages there are number of damage will found here.
 Broken Pick


Stop Mark



Slab



Stain



Knot

 Dye Mistakes


Hole



Foreign Yarn



Dry Streak

 Broken End
 Printing Mistake


Double Picks

 Double End
 Shirt Print

 Shade Bands
 Crease Mark
 Feed Mark
 Wearing Detect
 Shine Mark
 Colour Mark
 Colour Bar and Shade tastings
 Oil Mark
 Water Mark and Shrinkage
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CUTTING DEPARTMENT


Cutting Department is cutting fabric for made garments. BCS contains a Cutting
Department. Normally a cutting department is present only in the Brandix
Center Ekala.



But Seeduwa Factory comprises of a cutting department which brought from the Center and the cutting staff from the Brandix Center is also been transferred to BCS. Cutting Department receives Fabric rolls that to be cut according to Lay Sheet and FIN is also join here.



There are four kinds of fabrics they normally cut;
 Interlining
 Pocketing
 Shell Fabric



They use SPEADER for lay fabric for cutting. They lay them as that requirement that given by Gerber room with Marker. Cutting machine is a special safety machine that contains Shaper also.



Averagely it runs 2800 times per minute.



All cut fabrics are entered to here minimum 3 days before they should be feed to lines. There is a Production Plan that is given by Work Study Department considering about Delivery dates.



All of processes in this department starting with based on those plans.

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Functions of the Cutting Department
1. Fabric Receiving
2. Marker Making
3.Fabric Layering

Gerber Spreading Machines
Gerber Spreading Machines
Fully Auto Layering
Fully Auto Layering
Manual Layering
Automate: - - Gerber Spreading Machines
Automate: Gerber Spreading Machines

4. Cutting

Manual: - Hand Cutter

5. Bundling
6. Numbering – Numbering machines
7. Fusing

How a marker is drawn and marker efficiency
The responsible team for to make the layering plan will plan it according to the monthly plan and produce a unique cut ratio report for the newly received fabrics for a specific order or a style. Then the marker maker realize in depth to construct a specific required number of markers by adding the number of garments I size wise to the TUKA System & also he got the pattern from pattern maker. And he enter the patterns to the system and constructs the marker and add to the system.
Normally they need: - 1. Pattern
2.Lay Plan (Fabric out ratio report)
3.Quantity of the garments in size wise

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Marker Types



Gerber Plotter

Normal Marker- Most efficient type of Marker

Basically they are main two types of makers;
1. Side to side marker
2. Side to center Marker

Garment markers are allocated on the marker in a colour shade pattern in one way.

There are two types of shadings and markers. Namely they are;
1.Lenghth wise shading – group marker
2. Width wise shading – side to center marker

 2 types of Garment allocation in the Marker
i. One Garment One Way ii. All Garment One Way

Matching Garment Method if the fabric has stripes and the buyer needs different parts which get the stripes in different ways, then the garment parts should be cut in the required way according to the stripes direction. This is called as matching garment method.
Marker is drawn to improve cutting efficiency and reduce the wastage.

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Marker efficiency
Marker efficiency is demarcated by the following equation: marker efficiency = Area of garments X 100%
Area of the fabric
System gives that marker efficiency automatically.

Cut Plan
Planner makes a monthly plan and according to that a cut ratio report is made for week wise. Then a production cut date is concerned by making a PCD report as a daily planner. According to that PCD report cutting is going on in the plant…

Layering
Initial step before cutting is layering. Normally the cutting department at Brandix
Seeduwa plant lay fabric manually and using a spreader machine. There are two types of layering that take place in this department. Those are;
Manual Layering:



2 people lay the fabric according to the required length and cut it by end cutter They put a load in one side of the layer & lay the plies in time.

Automatic Layering (Using spreader machines)
 They are two types of spreader machines called as fully automatic spreader & manual Gerber spreader.
 Automated Gerber machines cut the ends of the plies itself while the manual spreader machine needs an operator to make the cut.
 They concern about the marker length, number of plies, layer length & the extra fabric pieces which they have to lay to fulfil a length of plies.
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Sorting & numbering



As a sorting method the bundle each cut of the layer separately. And they put them into boxes in size wise.

 They use numbering machines. Numbering operators does numbering in every piece of the garment which they have cut.
 Numbering is useful because sometimes there are shades in fabric rollers.
If we cut a garment from some plies & sew it.


Numbering is useful to make a garment in even colour. Those cut fabrics are taken to numbering section. When numbering that fabric parts they attach to this bundle, Bundle Ticket.

 After numbering cut pieces located in locations before feeding to sewing line. Numbering is done for make sure that no shuffling among other cut pieces in same fabric roll or as well as another layer of fabric during they sew in sewing line.
 Numbering is done for avoiding from the effort of colour shading in one garment. Those shadings directly can be seen after washing those garments. That will really reduce the quality of production. In stores inspections they gathered that details about this colour shades. Numbering is finished before three days to sewing in the line.
Dispatching the Cut Work
 According to the production plan they decide how to dispatch cut work.  They have daily targets for each line according to their efficiency of the production lines.
 They cover their target hourly.

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Benefits of using a system based drawing markers over manual drawing
If the marker is made by hand that is manually, it takes a long time to create the marker. Because:
 They have to minimize the wastage and create the markers
 They have to assemble it in size wise.
Therefore it s a huge process and takes a lot of time. Computerized marker maker saves time & increase the productivity. When considering this assisted marker making, marker maker will receive marker plans on all sizes. As we can see the improvement of the productivity is because of these computerized systems which helps to do our work quickly & precisely to save our precious time.

When we consider about the marker efficiency, it can be improved by making the marker by giving a minimum wastage & it could be a help to improve the marker efficiency.
In the cutting department of Brandix casual wear Seeduwa, the cut ratios are as follows;

 Cut Order ratio

=

No. of cut garments
No. of ordered garment

 Cut Ship ratio

=

No. of shipped garments
No. of out Garments

 Order ship ratio

=

No. of shipped garments
No. of ordered garments

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Reasons for the Fabric wastage
Before I move onto the Fusing section I want to mention the reasons for the fabric waste as we together did a research on finding that.
We took some Laying sheets and did the calculations to find out the percentage.
That was around 10% wastage in fabrics during laying and marker drawing.
In layering System they spread fabric by giving excess or 2 inches at the ends f the plies than the marker length.

Damages & Inspections
Even there inspection was in stores there will be some damaged or defected cut pieces. To avoid from that there is a checking table for inspecting big parts in cutting section
Once they found an effectible fault or damage they reject that particular piece.
Then replace that part using cut another according to above measurements in this internal cutting section for that they have Bead Knife Machine. BCS is given those measurements and also 1% of each shade break (from each lot) by length.

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Fusing Section
Fusing is the process that uses to add some extra strength by pasting nonwoven fusing part in heat and pressure background. There are two machines in this fusing section of BCS which are the names called
KANNEGIESSER- German
&
HASHIMA - England.
Both of these machines give heat to double side of part (fuse side & fabric side) under pressure that helps to fix that fusing part to fabric.
Fusing is depending on Temperature, Pressure and Speed of roll of machine.
There are two reports to be check about machine. One report is checked by the relevant engineer in every morning. Cleanness is checked by time. Such as during tea-breaks. In some case there will be some fusing parts passing/Floating on the roller surface. Those should be removed and clean immediately. Mainly there will be two types of defects that can be found in here like Fusing parts are not balanced and Waist band are combined with two deferent sizes.

There are 3 main zones in a fusing machine.
Zone 1 –
Zone 2 –
Zone 3 –

Fabric Swelling
Melting of fusing material.
Absorption of fusing material to fabrics.

According to the requirement of the buyer they fix the required temperature, Pressure, Speed of the Belt & Pressure.
Temperature.
Low temperature
Moderate Temperature high Temperature

82 – 127 degrees of Celsius
127 – 171 degrees of Celsius
160 -204 degrees of Celsius

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A special thermo paper is used for that. It gives the temperature of the belt.
And the pressure belt is use for to measure the pressure of the belt.

Popular fusing areas of trouser
 Waist band
 Pocket welt
 Knee patch
 Fly facing (J)
 Fly box

Fusion Colours
Charcoal

- For Black Jack and deep sea

C Navy
E Green
White

- American Twill

D Khaki
Khaki Tea
P Grape
Grape stone
Charcoal
F Walnut
Indigo

In BCS (Brandix Casual Wear Seeduwa);
Pumice and steel colours were been use for the style number 6333497
Charcoal for Bark and Peat for style number 93208
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Fusing standards
Fusing machine condition should change for the material.
For Black fuse parts
 Temp 150oC
 Time 14sec
 Pressure 3kgcm2
 Glue line temp 138oC
 Tension 9N
 Interlining article CH126
For White fuse part
Waist band other small parts –
 Tem 160oC 150oC
 Time 15sec 14sec
 Pressure 4kgcm2 3kgcm2
 Glue line temp 149-154oC 138oC
 Tension 9N 10N
It is also depend on fabric colour

 These fusing parts contain some gum and they activated with heat. This amount is calculated how many gum dots per one inch like.
 These are the things that we can define about this Internal Cutting
Department. After this process those fabrics cut pieces feed in to lines according to the production flow process.

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EXTRA

I would like to add some extra details regarding the Gerber cutter from the cutting Department.
Gerber Cutter
Vacuum Level:

0.6 Hg
4.3 Hg

Knife Speed :

0-4200
4100 RPM

Cut Speed

:

0 – 6521 RPM

Knife wear

:

9000 shpns

Procedure of Handling the Gerber cutter :Enter the file number into the Gerber cutter and select the ply size to give the above constructions.
Polythene is layered to keep the vacuum in control.
Laser light will help to separate the length in to bites then to cut.

Defects in the Gerber Cutter







Short Panel
Shape out regain to another shape
Missing cut mark
Deep wrong Mark
Long Panels
Marker mistake

Corrective actions







Re cut
Re Trim
Re check
Get approval
Inform to the Supervisor

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Production Department
Production Department is the heart of the factory that proceeding the vast kind of operations and send as output a good garment. Brandix Casualwear
Seeduwa mainly produces trousers/ pants. So the production environment in
BCS is designed to get huge advantage for the effective production of trousers.
This department has:














2 Production Plants
12 Sewing Lines
Production Manager
2 Assistant Production Managers
Executives
Production Supervisors
Recorders
Machine Operators and Helpers.

According to the production plan there is a Recorder for each production line to insert cut pieces in relevant Style and PO.
Those details are given by Production Department to Recorder and recorder check the Loading Sheet of l Cutting Section and also check that Bundle Ticket to select correct bundle. As same needed trims are insert to line from stores.
Then production is begun. They can be divided to trouser garment into fro parts;
Back
Front
Components
Assembles are them.
Every MOs (Machine Operators) is given introduction about style MO’s operation and quality stands in the meeting that conduct for that production line (which handled by Production Department). Also every machine operator must be given a Mock-up by Quality Department. That paper must be shown side of sewing machine and also singed correctly.
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These production lines are arranged to easiest way to handle production and also production line has been balanced by Work Study Department or IED according to the Standard.
Before I go into detail of production of garments. I would like to elaborate how a garment is analysed. Initially a garment is analysed by a sketch and constructing a garment tree.

GARMENT TREE

FRONT

WAIST BAND

LOOP

BACK



UNDERWAIST
BAND



WELT PKT
BAG



WAIST BAND



BACK PKT
FACING



WELT

 FLY

 FLY BOX

 FRONT PKT BAG

 COIN PKT

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Operation Sequence of a Garment which was on Progress






























Pocket bag – Facing attach
Fly Facing – Zipper attach
Over lock pocket Bag – attach to front panel
Pocket mouth outline over lock – pocket outline
Attach fly facing to front
J stitch
Fly box Over lock – attach & crotch attach dart Attach
Dart outlining
Welt marking – welt making
Welt bottom outline
Facing attach pocket making & Over lock pocket bag
Welt top outlining
Inseam Over lock
Back rise Outlining
Side seam over lock
Waist band marking
(Center front, side seam , back rise marking, back pocket)
Loop insert – loop tag
Ironing the band – attached binding
Top and under Band – Iron
Waist Band Marking
Corner making – tag to the body
Waist band finishing
Loop – Bar tag
Bottom - Hem

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Machine Layout (of line number 7 of an OLD navy Pant)



Waist Band Pippin
Attach(SN)

 Welt making (Welt machine)
(SN)



Facing attach to front pocket(SN)  Dart(SN)



Attach coin pocket (SN)



Pocket bag O/L (3 Thread)



Pocket attach to Panel (SN)

 Welt outline(SN)
 Pocket facing attach (SN)
 Button hole marking (SN)



Front bag Outlining (SN)

 Back pocket over lock (OL
3thread)



Front pocket tacking (Bar
Tagging)

 Welt outlining ‘upper’’(SN
Auto)



Attaching the zipper (SN)

 Back pocket tacking (Bar tack) 

Fly box attach(two front panels attach) (SN)



Front rise (SN)



J stitch(SN)

 Waist band marking (auto
SN)
 Labels attach to waist band
(SN)

LOADING











Side pocket Upper
& lower parts

J Stitch

Inseam over lock (OL 5 thread)
Back rise Over lock (OL 5 thread)
Side seam over lock (5 thread)
Loop marking (SN)
Attach loops marking (SN)
Attach Loops & labels
Waist Band attach (SN)
Loop marking//tacking (SN Bar tack)
Quality Check
Tack

Fly box & Zipper

In-plant Training Report of K. A. Vidun S. Piyasumana

NOTE:
(SN) stands for – Single Needle
(OL) stands for –Overlock Machine

Front rise

64

Line Balancing

According to GSD system, fixed series of SMV values are plugged to standard value to specific operations. Style wise the order, layout, workplace in a line will alter. This layout is constructed basically on regarded to the newly introduced software system. Hence, initially it is calculated by the BPT known as basic pitch time.


BPT

=

30/50 SMV

=

0.6


Here the Finishing SMV is deducted by the total SMV and is divided by the no. of, members. Normally a small tolerance is added to BPT value ranging from 0.7
0.6
0.5.
Therefore a single member can hold a maximum of 0.6. Next according to the GSD system Operation wise SMV’s are allocated and the line is balanced within the limit of total S.M.V to the particular garment.
Minute Value (S.M.V).
This sewing process is conduct by Line Supervisor and supervisor has the given target per day. That should be achieved and there is few systems to monitor that  Inline Hourly Count
 Hourly count back-front assemble output
 Bundle number system
 Whole Factory Count in every 15minutes
 Line out
 Quality out
If production line excide that target without any quality issue all employees will get Incentive (in given criteria discuss in work study).

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Sewing Machines
Production Lines and small part section contain different sewing machines from deferent world recognize produces such as:
JUKI, Brother, Durcopp Adler, ZOJE.
Those are the main machine types which use in these sewing lines.




















Single Needle
Lock Stitch
Chain Stitch
Double Needle
Lock Stitch
Chain Stitch
Three Thread Over Lock
Five Thread Over Lock
Multi Needle Chain Stitch
Button Hole
Key Button Hole
Normal Button Hole
Bar Tack
Hook & Bar
Feed of the Arm
Welt Machine
Loop Machine
Pad Log Machine
And there are Automated Machines that reduces Time
(Line no. 13 consist of fully automated machines that are been innovated by the innovation department in Brandix Casualwear Seeduwa)

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Quality Section in the Production Department
In quality section there are quality control manager, Technical Incharge, quality
Incharge Technician & quality checkers.
There are so many methods which we can follow to keep quality control. They are; 




S.P.C
9 zero
7 zero
Traffic Light
In this factory there is a traffic light system. If checkers checks random samples from every member for each hour & if there are no damages they will give a green sticker. If there is only one damage they will give a yellow sticker & if the damages are more than 2, then they can give a red sticker. So that they can see the quality of individual person for each hour. This is the method use to control quality. They check waist size, inseam, cut and material damages in the garment. Cut and material damages are rejected evenly.

Quality Means Buyers Standard

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67

Quality Process

Panel Inspection
Line
Mid Label Checking
Midi CIF Audit (CIF- Central Inspection Facility)
Sending for Washing
IST 50 Pieces Audit
Washing QC (quality Checking)
Ironing and Pressing to maintain a good Quality
Final Q/C
Final Q/C Audit
Packing
Final Inspection
Shipment Release

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Calculation of S.M.V
Seeduwa Brandix Factory carry out a system to calculate the SMV of a garment. This system is called as the GSD system. General Sewing Data. It is software comprised with SMV values for each and every operation which is calculated in standards. After the selection of the operations series they give total SMV for that garment.
Work Place Engineering
There is a work place engineering section in Brandix Casual wear Seeduwa named as Innovation Department. They carry out New Projects to make the machines self withstand for the given commands and ease out the work by minimizing the operators and also this department try to modify the basic machines under a good engineered influence to yield out a good SMV Value for the production. Such Examples are ;
1.One shot zipper attach
2.Automated waist band marking
3.Automated cargo pocket marking
4.Auto cutters for over lock
5.Auto cutters for over lock
5.Auto loop attach
6.Patch Pressing
Production Planning
1st the planner, will find the total capacity for the overall year including no. of
Days, hours, OT hours.
Absentism
MO
Total Hours
Lines

– 6%
– 673
– 180
– 12

Capacity

= 180 X 12 X 673 X12X 6/100
= 87220.8 SAH (Standard Hours)
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69

 Efficiency = 85%
 They provoke to use a system called FAST REACT. In the product screening meeting marketing manager gives the information’s to the planner.  There they give the quantity of a garment & the cut date to the planner.
 In parallel the work study manager gives the SMV value, printing information & wasting details.
 Merchandiser gives an IOS – Order Inquiry Sheet to the planner which contains those details.
 According to these details planners make the plan by keeping 3% above to actual standard hours (SAH).
 Fabric In house
 Cut Date

 SAH =

-

Cut (7days)
30days before sewing

SMV X Quantity
60

 Planner Consider about ;








No. of operators
Skill of the line
Quantity
Machine Requirement
Handling, Printing, Embroinding , preparation , beads
S.M.V (Standard Minute Value)
No. Operations

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70

SMV 35
<
SMV 36 – 45
SMV 36 – 45
SMV 45-50
SMV 50 above

Efficiency 80%
=
78%
=
75%
=
70%
=
65%

 5 days they allocate for learning and studying to get fluent with style when a new style is given to the line. Here too the efficiency will vary as follows.

DAYS

1

2

3

4

5

EFFICIENCY

25%

30%

150%

60%

85%

 Planner keep 5 days extra for washing & 4 days for finishing in his plan because there may be sewing delays, material delays.

 Functions of Planning Department






Production plan making
Washing plan making
Finishing plan making
Shipment plan making
OTT plan making

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71

Machine Mechanisms

In-plant Training Report of K. A. Vidun S. Piyasumana

72

Machine Mechanisms

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73

Attachments Available in the Factory






Cord edge piping attachment
Belt Loop folder
Straight folder
Single fold for bias binder
Plain hammer and etc.

This is the overall process and the functions of the production department. Let us see the problems and challenges of this department that’ll take place.
Sewing related Problems





Needle Breakages
Machine repair
Layout changes
Bobbin changing

Challenges in the sewing room
 Due date target achievement
 Absentism cover
 Energy Consumption saving
When i think about these challenges I would like to suggest as a student to;
1.Motivate people by any means.
2. Making the Process Automation so that the workers will like to work since the work is easy.

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74

Finishing Department
Finishing Department is very important since the very last few processes of production happen here and prepare garments for export. In Brandix Seeduwa
Factory he input is always matching to the finishing plan by matching the production target quantity with the finishing target quantity.

This department comprise with:





Finishing Department Manage,
Executives,
Supervisors
Working carder with 6 lines of final finishing done. Functions of Finishing Department
a) Button Attachment
b) Loop Cutting
c) Garment turning(auto process)
d) Thread cutting
e) Ironing
f) Quality checking(Final Inspection)
g) Label attach
h) Folding
i) Polyethene Packing
j) Cartoon Packing
k) Cartoon marking
l) Warehouse Storing
m) Loading

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Process of Finishing Department





























After receiving washed garments are categorized to Style wise.
Randomly get 50 garments and check the colour effect according to the shade band, also inspect garment (If there are damage garments more than 3garment or 10% they have to recheck all the garments relative style).
If that lot is ok send/ feed them to finishing lines.
Cut extra part of the loop.
Mark buttons using dash boards & stitch the button to trouser.
Cut the extra threads in inside the garments.
Ironing the garment
Put some pressure steam by Gym Machine. It gives to trouser some sort of iron and fix the size / starch garment.
Check the measurements (if there are we small error then finishing department send them to production lines or try to fix it in, if it is a large error they reject that garment).
Cut the extra thread in out seam and check the error in the garment and also team labels are removed (If there is small/recoverable error they fix the error through this process.
The larger one sends them again to the production line).
Check the ironing colour shading & patches.
Audit inspection (only randomly selected garment).
Remove all the unnecessary cut thread from garment by sucker machine.
Attach tags (price tickets, match box, leg sticker).
Packing (stickers attach to polybag).
Send them to dispatch area.
Each pack should be metal check by needle detector machine (remove all unwanted metal part and count each garment according to the PO No & colour).
After that metal check that poly bags are placed on dispatch area that to be carton.
In that categorized the garment into sites colours, PO.No and styles after that carton the garments. There are three different types of carton garment as on buyer request.
Ratio >there is different sizes in one carton from one style one colour.
Bulk >one site one style in one colour (solid).
2 Pack >two garment contain in one poly bag & carton contain that mind of bags.
After that process of carton garments. There is specific place for carton garment. This place called as CT-PAT (custom trade partnership against terrorism) it’s a high security zone can be enter only authorized person.
Carton garment store in warehouse.

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Factory Audit (FA) Report
FA Report is done by factory after they receive the total quantity according to the PO. Then dispatch area organized Factory Audit. This audit will be hold by unpacking few cartons and compare details with PO sheet and fill the Packing Audit Work Sheet. The Factory BCS comprise with 2 factory Auditors representing the factory for the pre final inspection.
Before the inspection the factory auditors randomly select cartons and check the EDI,
Marking and open the cartoon and check no. of garments, size ratio of the garments, EDI with PO & the poly bag construction. They select the cartoons randomly according to the
AQL chart. Then the auditors make the ‘’ FA’’ report (Factory report).
Then this FA report will be sent to the CIF. The Central Inspection Facility. The Facility room will undergo the final inspection. This Final inspection is done by specially authorized members who represent the relevant buyer. These are called as buyer’s representative.
Even though the factory pays for him they work for buyers. Then they undergo a full inspection. They open the cartons and check individual garments, measurements, trims, size ratio randomly. If the representatives have the necessary achievements and requirements to the relevant buyer they will certify the cartons for the shipment. They have the right to even reject the total quantity of the Bulk Garments.
Including details in packing Audit work sheet as below;








Total quantity
Correct price ticket
Carton markings /label error carton
Correct Pre Pack
Carton not as specified carton
Crushed or damage CTNS
Use of wire or metal stepping carton

CIF (Central Inspection Facility)
After finishing FA report it sent to CIF with the packing audit work sheet.
This is final inspection that approves all to garment to export. This process is done by the agent that has been certified by buyer (GAP certified, VSS Certified).
Related Documents to final inspection.









Po sheet
Packing list
FA report
Tech pack
Packing & sewing trim card
Shade bands
Sample of the garment
Metal contamination log
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There 3 main audits will held on :




Measurement audit
Visual Audit
Packing Audit.

If the Inspection fails, auditor has to prepare the In-Plant Audit Summary to be sent with shipment to buyer.
N:B Lander end sold pass all 3 audit to pass final audit but GAP allow to fail only one audit inspection can be fail.
N:B While we inspection faults in selected garments (randomly) those faults can be divided in to three main categories. Those are depending on buyer.
EDI (Electronic Dispatch interface)
There is an EDI sticker that contain the summary of carton and also content details in that PO such as ;




Style,
Site,
Quantity and Barcode. Z

There are is a bar cord to mention the PO & carton number.
End of the dispatch they send an ASN to buyer and port with dispatch details. The EDI systems vary at Seeduwa Brandix Eco Factory. For OLD Navy there is manual process where the EDI officer should enter each and every detail to the Excel system and proceed to get the print of an EDI sticker but for Warnaco it’s a fully automated system. They only require the bar cord reader to read the carton number and issue an
EDI.

Dispatching the Garments
After the Garments being packed, the logistic supervisor will recheck the PO sheet and assemble the cartoons in a proper order in the container and takes some photographs to send to the buyer, and also to keep for the factory in case of emergency while the goods are been shipping.
Well for to ship the logistic department should play a big role in dispatching the cartons. If it’s a PO style for seasons then normally the load will be send to the yard and ship according to the order quantity stated and if its not a PO style sometimes if it is very urgent requirement then the logistic department will contact and book a space in a ship and directly transfer the load to the Port. The cartons are been normally shipped to USA,
Canada, Europe, UK, Japan.

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Machines used in Finishing Department







Gym machine
Sucker machine (remover the unnecessary cut threads)
Tike tag (attach the tags to garment)
Harshima Needs detector machine (check the metal parts)
Button attach machine there is machines
I let / rivet machine (attach I lets)

 Gym machine
Topper Pressing Machine

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Work Study Department
In the total garment process Work Study/ IE Departments plays a huge role. This department interferes and performs their tasks that really effective to the improvement and smoothness of the process. Not only but also handles huge process in order confirmation operation.
Most of those things have mentioned in before topics and here mainly important to identify that job of this section. There is IE Manager, IE executives and Work Study officers in this crow. This department is different than others because of this management doesn’t dealing with factory manager, Brandix Casualwear Seeduwa IE department dealing with the IED management of Cluster .
That is kind of different environment of management. Then considering about their works below chat shows what kind of works they have to perform in Work Study path.

Work Study

Method Study

Work Measurement

Motion Economy

GSD general sewing data

Activity Sampling

Production Study

And also Work Study/ IE department handled some extra activities other than those and those things can define in two categories Style wise,
Style Wise
 R/A meeting
 P/P meeting
 Helper discussion
 Lay out
 Lay out discussion
 Feeding check list
 Feeding plan
 Style Check
 Learning curve achievement
 Capacity graph
 Tread consumption
 Production study grading
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Day to day activities




Line balancing
Absent capacity
Incentive

Most of above style wise activities are happen when new style feeding to the production. There is a responsibility of IE department make requirements to arrange workplace with appropriate machines and workers. That should effect to good production outcome.

GSD and Costing


When factory place a new perches order for new style there is a process which done by work study/ IE department collaboration with financial department evaporate the costing of garment. In this time IE department find that Standard Minute Value for finish complete one garment per garment. These data are taken from GSD (general sewing data) file that contain every operation that should be done while it on production.
That GSD details based on some sampling stages as standards of factory or group.
There can be find a SAH (Standard Allocated Hours) per one order. This is the basement of production planning in Brandix Casualwear Seeduwa.






Incentive preparing


According to the above things and based on production plan there is a target (efficiency level) to be achieved by every line per day. This target are given to each line can be different. If some line exceeding that level within that range of approved carder or less number they will be given Incentive.



Not only for the production line has Finishing Department, Welt and Dart sections also had this incentive. There are static criteria. These criteria can be varying on buyer such as GAP,
Old Navy, Lands End, Victoria Secret, etc.
Trousers are divided into four categories.
1. These are Basic (trousers SMV < 35),
2.Semi Cargo (35 < trouser SMV < 45),
3.Cargo (45 < trouser SMV < 55)
4. Active Cargo (55 < trouser SMV).




There is a criteria of buyers that how they paying for the achievement of appropriate date of production. This date is calculate from the feeding date. If that sewing line passes that target there is also more paying for that line (Brandix Casual wear Seeduwa gives team incentive but there will be individual paying also).

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Commercial Department
Commercial Department is also a centralized department and BCS doesn’t have a
Commercial department. These are details that I’ve been through and found out. There are
2 sections in this department. That is Management Accounting and Finance Accounting.
These sections have their specific works.
Management Accounting
Mainly does decision making process and also handled day to day finance things. In BCA they doing Petty Cache giving bellow 50000 Rs per day and create monthly Budget
Preparation (monthly cost). All other main things happen at Eakale Center.
Finance Accounting
As a procedures there are happen mainly;
• Buyer Payments
• Supplier Payments
• Government Taxes
These things have centralized to WTC (World Trade Center) BCS(Brandix Casualwear
Seeduwa) just handles documents.
Commercial Department handles Letter of credit documents and PO (perches order) documents. This Commercial Department is situated for these kinds of jobs that are very important to the factory.

ENGINEER DEPARTMENT
For this department there is Engineer, Assistant Engineer, Chief Mechanic, Electrician, AC
Mechanic, Boiler Operator and Plumber. Responsibility of this department is maintaining the factory with use of repairing and replace or place required machines. And also this department is maintaining the boiler and delivers steam to factory.
Engineering Department interferes when Purchasing Department buying goods. This department also handles the budget of Water Bill, Electricity bill and other spear parts costs. Through the
Assistant engineer place the PO (Perches Order for spear parts).
This kind of things are managed by this department and setting the required machines to production flow and repair them even set SPI value also by mechanics.

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82

MIS Department
MIS means Management Information System. There is only one employee works here and main responsibility of him is keep connect Brandix Casualwear Seeduwa with Brandix Group and keep the internal network, telecommunication system in good standard that dosen’t effect to other works.
Also do the administration works of all the computers printers, repair also. There is one special thing around this section this employee isn’t work for Brandix.
That employee should report to his company which he appoints to here (DMS cooperation).
Brandix has get this step to take employees for MIS section from other corporations as a reduce that lose their time with issue or these system problems. That outsource company have to take responsibility and fix it as soon as possible time.
That is smart tactics for save the most important thing means data.
This department handle 150000Rs budget for monthly charges of telecommunication providers (Sun
Tell and SLT) not only for that monthly maintains must be done with staying on this budget.
Also maintain Server of factory here. Those are the things what happen in here.

Safety of the Factory
Factory has one Safety Officer and he is responsible for all the safety issues inside the factory. In a factory there are many accidents can be happen. Safety can be divided in to main five categories such as product, electrical, machine, food and environment.





Production - Button attach procedure, in that process check whether button has fixed or not.
Electrical - Jim machine working in a specific heat and it should be check few times a day, because heat measurement will be change.
Machines - Each and every machine should have in specific standard and if machines are not using, needle must be remove.
Food - Food also must be a specific standard and everyday nurse and related parties come and check the quality of the food and kitchen. After that report to the relevant parties. In-plant Training Report of K. A. Vidun S. Piyasumana

83

Needle control procedure of Brandix Green Plant Seeduwa factory
Accept any product containing or possibly containing any metal components, needle or other shape objects. In an effort to monitor this, all garment manufacturers are implementing the following needle control procedures. Operator must not keep any spare needle or used needle.
Needle may be replaced only by authorized personnel replacement by sewing operator is not permitted. Replacement needles are to be secured in a locked cabinet and accessible only to authorized personnel.

How to handle broken needle during sewing stage
Operator must locate all parts of fragments, mandatory search within the sewing compounds, the affected garment, machine and surrounding area of 1meter. All broken fragments (whole parts) must be pasted and recorded in the broken needle Log. This log is kept by Safety Officer only and will be received by GAP PSS/QA.
If the metal fragment can’t be found, all the garment must go through needle detector. Needle detector machine is to be used as a supplement to the Needle control procedures and not be considered a replacement or substitute for these requirements. The garment must be set aside and thoroughly checked for metal parts.
If the metal fragment cannot be found, then the affected garment must be destroyed/ disposed. A metal contamination log is to be kept next to the needle detector machine and will be checked by
Gap Inc. QA/PASS, during regular factory inspection

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84

Finally, this is what I got from my valuable In- Plant Training for around two and half months at Brandix Casual Wear Seeduwa or sometimes named as Brandix Green Plant Seeduwa.
But I would like to state that more than this Report I learnt something more out of the frame. How to work, how to be patience, how to deal with others, how to maintain a position, how to be efficient build up friend ship, and also how to live, eat in a same level. The Practise encouraged me to have a get go the future in this field.
So my Special Gratitude’s goes to the Head of Seeduwa Green Plant Mr.
Thayakaran (CEO of BCS) and my co-coordinator Mr. Dinesh Sampath who guided us to yield the maximum privileges from this factory.
But behind my report there were lot of people who helped me to come up with this amount of knowledge. Specially the Sample room Incharge
Mr. Nishantha and Mrs. Devika (Assistant Manager in work-study
Department).
I’d be pleased and kind enough to thank everyone from Brandix
Seeduwa Green Factory and the Fabric Inspection Department at
Brandix Center Ekala for their kind support and help whom shared each bit of knowledge. Without any hesitations. Also want to thank Brandix
College, my college for giving us such a great opportunity.
I hope this project report has enough potential as Brandix College expect... TH

AN

K YOU

In-plant Training Report of K. A. Vidun S. Piyasumana

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