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Olive Oil

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Grades of Oils and Their Uses
Technically, there are eight grades of olive oil. For practical purposes, you only need to know about the four that are sold in U.S. food markets:

By Nancy Loseke

I

know people who can deftly maneuver through a restaurant wine list the size of a New York City phone book, but who absolutely clutch when they have to choose a bottle of olive oil at their supermarket or gourmet store. “How much do I want to spend? Is Italian oil better than Spanish? Virgin? Extra virgin?” They scroll through the questions in their minds, all the while suppressing an urge to make a run for the canola oil and leave all that uncertainty in Aisle 2. There are, admittedly, a mind-boggling number of olive oil choices on store shelves compared to just a few years ago. Even the tiny neighborhood market around the corner from my office—the place I go when I need cat food or laundry detergent on short notice—displays more than half a dozen olive oils. Nearby, an “upscale” grocery stocks more than 100.

America’s collective insecurity about olive oil is rooted in inexperience. Even today, with all the hype about olive oil’s health benefits (see below) and foodie curb appeal, only 30 percent of Americans have a bottle or two in their pantry. We’ve been, in the eyes of the world’s olive oil cultures, a bit sophomoric in our tastes, gravitating to the “extra light” oils some Europeans wouldn’t use in their lamps. But we’re trainable, and I daresay, quick studies. Take wine, for example: Seems to me we went from Riunite to Petrus in zero to sixty. Hey, wine is, afterall, just grape juice, and olive oil is just olive juice. It ain’t that intimidating. Armed with a few facts, you can make intelligent choices the next time you shop for or cook with the stuff Homer dubbed “liquid gold.”

• EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL - This is the ur oil, the first-pressed oil that is

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