Oscar de la Renta: A Latin Designer, Influencing fashion since the 1960’s.

The world has enjoyed his designs for more than two decades. His name is an inspiration to anyone who loves Fashion. His charisma and philanthropies contributions make Oscar de La Renta one of the most acclaimed and recognized Latin designers in the World.
Oscar de La Renta was born on July 22, 1932 in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic, a tropical Island in the Caribbean. Born to a very prominent Dominican Family, Oscar Aristides de la Renta Fiallo was introduced to the Arts since early age. His upbringing in the Dominican Society provided him with an extra eye for beauty and style. Influenced by his mother, Maria Antonia Fiallo, young Oscar learned to appreciate high quality fabrics and beautiful clothes in a time and in a place where only few had access to luxury. In the 1930’s, the Dominican Island was under the dictatorship regimen of General Trujillo, civil rights violations, aggressions to the poor, and restrictions were part of the everyday life in those years. Due to his family status, Oscar was able to grow in a protected, secure and calm environment. His warm and generosity showed since an early age. Carrillo gives us an inside of this side of Oscar in those years in the following passage from his book: “There were many poor people in Santo Domingo, and Oscar became friends with a boy from a poor neighborhood. When his friend came over to play in the afternoon, Oscar always gave him some food that he had saved from his own lunch” (1).
We can see how growing up in a tropical paradise, full of colors and mysticism, injected Oscar with the energy and love for color that is highly acclaimed in his designs. His craft showed first at La Escuela de Bellas Artes La Merced, the Dominican national art school, which he attended with the support of his mother and the opposition of his father. He exhibited his works for the first time at age 17 in a one man exhibition at the school where he received praise and support from his teachers. He left his conform surroundings at the Island at the age of 18 to study painting at Madrid’s Academia de San Fernando. This highly recognized Academy, established since 1762 during the reign of Fernando IV (2), had embraced the innovative talent of previous students like Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso. La Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando, welcomed young Oscar and provided him with a new social circle and new insides on how women’s clothes provide confidence, self esteem and status to the possessor.
In Madrid, Oscar sharpened his talent and landed an apprenticeship with a Spanish tailor. The dead of his mother a year later was the turning point in his life. With her death the reality of surviving in Art school without monetary support kicked in. His father infuriated by his son’s refusal to return to the island decided to cut off his access to family funds. Oscar refused to comply with his father’s hard punishment and stayed in Madrid. His sisters became the savior hands, taking up the role of his late mother; they supported the young Oscar so he could continue the pursuit of his dreams.
Europe was expensive and his sisters’ monetary help was not enough to cover his expenses. Oscar strong will and perseverance helped him not to deviate from his passion. He decided to find a job that supported his love for fashion and provided him with the cash to survive while attending school. His first job involved drawing sketches for Fashion magazines. This new venture opened the door to the fashion world and placed his sketches in the eyes of some of the most prominent European designers of the time. It was during this time that Cristobal Balenciaga noticed Oscar de la Renta and offered him a position sketching at his Madrid office. His success as a sketcher landed him a designer apprentice job at the Balenciaga house. This gave Oscar the opportunity to design his first woman dress in 1956.
His first design was published in the cover of Life magazine. The debutante dress designed exclusively for Beatrice Lodge, the daughter of Mrs. Lodge, wife of the American Ambassador in Spain; generated attention and gave Oscar the push to consider a more lucrative side of the Arts, Fashion. He became assistant designer for Cristobal Balenciaga and in the Balenciaga world he learned about cutting, sewing, draping, couture clothing and the business side of the fashion industry. He left Spain to Paris, France in 1961 after landing an assistant designer job to Antonio del Castillo, who designed for Lavin-Castillo. On his job interview, Oscar did not admit his lack of experience in cutting and sewing; he returned to Spain and took a crash course at a dressmaking school. He arrived to France with a new set of skills in his bag that allowed him to perform his tasks under the demands of his new boss. (3) In this new apprenticeship he learned about the creativity and skills involved to produce master pieces in the couture world. During his years in France he dreamed about having his designs under his own label instead of Lavin-Castillo.
During his numerous trips to New York, Oscar became friends with Elizabeth Arden and under the advice of Vogue editor, Diana Vreeland, Oscar de La Renta took a job as a designer under Elizabeth Arden. He moved to New York in 1963. His new job gave him the label he was aiming for; “Elizabeth Arden by Oscar de la Renta”. His classic and elegant clothes made to stay in style for longer period of times won the love and acceptance of the American elite. His clientele was women with busy social calendars who loved simple and elegant designs. Women like his own mother and like the American Ambassador’s wife.
In New York Oscar became friends with Baron de Gunzburg, a French aristocrat editor to Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. The Baron mentored not only Oscar de la Renta but Bill Blass and Klein, offering them advice on trends, fashion and the business side. Most likely this new friendship between the Baron de Gunzburg and Oscar opened more doors to the Fashion World. In his second year under Elizabeth Arden ,Oscar decided to depart and joint ventures with Jane Derby, she was one of the top designers in America in the 1950’s . Her company designed ready to wear fashion targeted to the new generation of working, professional women; her three piece suits with very feminine details carried Oscar similar beliefs on making the clothes an attribute to a women personality. (4) Oscar believed that the future of women clothes was in the ready-to-wear fashion industry and Jane Derby offered a new opportunity and an entrance into the ready-to wear business. Under this new partnership, his label “ Oscar de la Renta for Jane Derby” lasted few years. Her sudden death in 1965 gave Oscar de la Renta creative control over the company. He continued designing under this label until he was able to own his own company in 1974.
One must note the importance and influence of his first wife, Francoise de Langlade in Oscar’s career, the editor of Vogue magazine. Fashion Encyclopedia notes her importance in his life and career: “ His first marriage to the late Francoise de Langlade, editor in-chief of French Vogue, in 1967 was an undoubted asset to the la Renta’s business. Together they created soiress that were the equivalent of 18th-century salons. The environment enhanced the wearing of an Oscar de la Renta creation and provided valuable publicity, with frequent mentions in society columns” (5)
In this happy time of his life, Oscar the la Renta launched his fall collection in 1967, named the Russian Look, which was emphasized by the use of fur and jewels, displaying a more dramatic and romantic style than the hippie trend of the 1960’s.
The Russian look granted him more recognition and with that look he became the recipient of the Coty American Award, an annual tradition since the 1943. He received his second Coty American Award in 1968 with his collection “ The Beautiful Era” featuring high necks, long, puffy sleeves, quilted satin, laces and fur. (6) This look gave Oscar de la Renta the honor of being considered one of the top names in American fashion.
In 1967 Oscar business was bought by the Richton International Corporation the company became a public company. Oscar de la Renta became the first fashion designer to have a company listed on the American stock exchange. (7) And under Richton Oscar’s company expanded adding a fur line and jewelry. The expansion gave Oscar a sense of losing control, so in 1973 he bought the company back. In 1977 he launched his own perfume label. His fragrances are recognized worldwide. He received the the Fragance Foundation Perennial Success Award in 1991 for his Oscar Parfum. (8)
In 1973 Oscar de la Renta was inducted into the Coty Hall of Fame and served as president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CDFA), a trade association founded in 1962. He served as a president in 1976, 1987 and 1989. As a President he established the CFDA Fashion Award. (8)
In 1983, Oscar suffered the loss of his beloved wife of 16 years. He mourned his wife and as an escape of his lonely life in New York, he started to visit his loved Dominica Republic more often. In La Romana, a resort town in the Dominican Republic he mourned the death of his wife until the news of a baby found at a dumpster by local nuns, resonance in Oscar’s mind. He adopted the baby and called him Moises. Since his son’s adoption he became more involved with the Dominican Orphanage, “la Casa del Nino”, the orphanage host around 400 children providing them with education and a place to nourish. “La Casa del Nino” is located in the old General Trujillo Palace. The institution receives yearly the benefits of one of Oscar’s fashion shows. The Dominican Republic had awarded Oscar de la Renta with two of the nation’s top honors: The Orden of Juan Pablo Duarte and the Orden of Cristobal Colon. He has also being recognized by the Panamerican Developed Foundation, which bestowed him on him the Lifetime Achievement Award. (9)
Currently Oscar de la Renta has launched a new line of children dresses. A portion of it benefits the Dominican Orphanage. A little version of a mothers dress can be purchased from $200 to $350, of which a portion of $100 goes to his charity.
Since the 1960’s Oscar de la Renta had been called to the White House to design gowns, dresses and suits for the women of the White House. Jacqueline Kennedy choice of Oscar de La Renta designs helped her to maintain her fashion status. The Fashion style of the Jacqueline Kennedy years was followed years later by Nancy Reagan, Hillary Clinton, Laura Bush and her daughters, and first lady Mitchelle Obama. Oscar’s creation have been photographed on some of the most influential women in the world. His list of clients includes the Dutches of Windsor, Princess Madeleine of Sweden and Camilla Parker Bowles, Dutchess of Cornwall.
What makes Oscar de la Renta designs stand from the rest is his use of color, ornate details, and occasional use of fur. The use of fur has been criticized in recent years by PETA, the People for Ethical Treatment of Animals. His fashion is associated with femininity, his designs are lady like. He is a traditional designer who emphasizes the use of the right fabric for his clothes. Oscar de la Renta designs celebrate romance, feminine, sensual with the use of chiffon and faille. He continues inspire himself with the Global influence from traditions of different countries and regions. According to a Smithsonian exhibit on Hispanic designers, “De la Renta became known for his feminine, romantic and dramatic and evening clothes utilizing elaborate fabrics and embroideries.” (10)
The name Oscar de la Renta inspires designers across the globe. His hard work and feminine consistency in his design make him one of the top names in the Fashion World.

Notes 1. Louis Carrillo, Oscar de la Renta. Austin,Tex: Raintree Steck-Vaughn, 1996. P.27 2. Academia de Bellas Artes. Available on line. http://www.realacademiabellasartessanfernando.com/es/academia/historia. 3. Susan Muaddi Darraj, The Great Hispanic Heritage, Oscar de la Renta, Chelsea House, 2010. 4. Vintage Fashion Guild. Available on line. http://vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/derby-jane/ 5. Fashion Encyiclopedia Online “Oscar de la Renta” Available on line. URL:http//wwwfashionencyclopedia.com/Da-Es/de-la-Renta-Oscar.html. 6. Susan Muaddi Darraj, The Great Hispanic Heritage, Oscar de la Renta, Chelsea House, 2010. 7. Susan Muaddi Darraj, The Great Hispanic Heritage, Oscar de la Renta, Chelsea House, 2010. 8. Susan Muaddi Darraj, The Great Hispanic Heritage, Oscar de la Renta, Chelsea House, 2010. 9. Elliot Robert Barkan, Making It in America: A sourcebook on Eminent Ethics Americans.

Karen graham in a gown from the 1974 spring collection, http://markdsikes.com/2012/04/17/oscar-the-one-and-only/

Oscar de la Renta, http://markdsikes.com/2012/04/17/oscar-the-one-and-only/

V

Label, http://vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/derby-jane/

Oberto gili photograph http://markdsikes.com/2012/04/17/oscar-the-one-and-only/ Oscar and his first wife francois the day after their wedding in their new york city apartment . http://markdsikes.com/2012/04/17/oscar-the-one-and-only Angela lindvall in a gownby oscar de la renta- arthur elgort photograph. http://markdsikes.com/2012/04/17/oscar-the-one-and-only

Vintage dress by Oscar de la Renta. http://vintagefashionguild.org

From His ready to Wear 2013 Collection.
Swarovskistate Pendat by Oscar de la Renta, 2013

http://www.oscardelarenta.com
From his ready to wear 2013 collection
http://www.oscardelarenta.com