Life today is so full of stress. Whether it is the urban lifestyle or rural, everyone has some form of stress. However, the rural population has some consolation of living in a green and lesser polluted environment. But the urban population has no such luck. They are, and specially the more aware and educated and the upwardly mobile executive is on the lookout for a health alternative with which he/ she would be better able to handle the daily doses of fixed stress for self and family, through usage of health products, yoga meditation, and perhaps textiles.
The work environments are heavily packed with schedules, targets, meetings. The stress is ever increasing for not only people with normal health but worse for those people who are not at the best of health and have other health problems like asthma, acute stress disorders, high blood pressure, chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD), acne or psoriasis.
Stress
Stress is the emotional and physical strain caused by our response to pressure from the outside world. Common stress reactions include tension, irritability, inability to concentrate, and a variety of physical symptoms that include headache and a fast heartbeat.
Stress is simply a fact of nature - forces from the outside world affecting the individual. The individual responds to stress in ways that affect not only the self but environment. Hence, all living creatures are in a constant interchange with their surroundings (the ecosystem), both physically and behaviorally.
Effects of Stress
Stress can affect on individual both immediately (acute stress) and over time (chronic stress).Tension is often the first signal of acute stress. Tense muscles are tight and feel "hard" to the touch. A tense mind makes one feel jumpy, irritable, and unable to concentrate. This could be a signal to do something about stress, both for ones immediate comfort and to prevent the long-term effects of stress.
Symptoms of stress
Common symptoms of stress include: rapid heartbeat, headache, stiff neck and/or tight shoulders, backache, rapid breathing, sweating and sweaty palms. Upset stomach, nausea, or diarrhea.
Stress also may also be noticed as change in ones pattern of thinking, behavior, or mood. Become irritable and intolerant of even minor disturbances and feel irritated or frustrated, lose your temper more often, and yell at others for no reason, feel jumpy or exhausted all the time, find it hard to concentrate or focus on tasks, worry too much about insignificant things, doubt ones ability to do things, imagine negative, worrisome, or terrifying scenes are all symptoms of stress.
Stress management
Amongst the many of the methods of stress management like regular exercise, sports or brisk walking, delegate or share ones responsibilities at work, learn to be more assertive, avoid caffeine, eating balanced diets, and music therapies, to name a few, is also being close to nature and in a more pure and pollution free environment. However, this is rarely possible in our urban environs’.
Researchers at the Russian Academy of Sciences in Moscow discovered that negative ions are able to help protect the body from induced physical stress.
Negative air ionization increased physiological tolerance of stressed people and reduced secondary effects of stress in behavior and performance.
Theory of negativity
Research as far back as 1932 labeled negative ions (mainus ee-ons in Japanese; oxygen particles with an extra electron to scholars) the "vitamins of the air," capable of reducing stress, lifting depression, relieving hay fever or soothing migraines by catching microscopic particles in the air (ions) and making them fall to the floor, balancing serotonin levels in the body, and halting the growth of bacteria. Places with high levels of this apparent panacea like—mountains, beaches, and waterfalls—are those we migrate to for leisure. Low counts are found in smoky rooms and near computer monitors, T V screens,—places of stress.
In a study, conducted in Japan, a comparison is shown between blood cells in normal air and blood vessels in negative ion laden air. Immune system which is dense in normal air and immune system that is active after coming in contact with negative ions.
[pic]
Figure 1.1 Comparison between normal air and negative ions laden air.
Some of the gadgets that are regularly and thoroughly used in the urban environment are fluorescent lighting, electronic equipment, synthetic static producing fibers, air-conditioners, electric heaters and other heating systems, many plastics (they give off gas that produces positive ions) these gadgets can reduce the levels of negative ions and increase the positive ones in the environment.
These constantly forming positive ion charges tend to continuously push out the negative ions. This leaves a preponderance of airborne positive ions which can trigger Serotonin Irritation Syndrome. Sulman and Kreuger's work led to a hypothesis that serotonin was involved in a mechanism of interaction between ions and biological systems. Buckalew and Rizzuto (1982) found that male subjects exposed to negative ions from commercial ion generators for a period of at least 6 hours reported feeling more relaxed and less tired. Reductions in irritability, depression, and tenseness, with increased calmness and stimulation were associated with negative ion exposure.
In the urban, home and work environment-a person is most likely surrounded by lots of "stuff" that produces positive ions and little or none that produces negative ions. All this stuff can contribute to Serotonin Irritation Syndrome, which makes one irritable and tired. Serotonin can produce neurovascular, endocrinal, and metabolic effects throughout the body (Kreuger 1976).It plays an important role in mood and sleep patterns. Negative ions act to reduce serotonin levels in the respiratory system, blood and brain, whilst positive ions increased serotonin levels. Kreuger (1976)
[pic]
Figure no 1.2 Serotonin: A molecule of happiness
German and Russian governments have made it mandatory for all hospitals to have ion generators. All United States submarines since 1956 too have negative generators installed. Even Luftwaffe planes (air force of Germany) were negatively ionized too to prevent pilot fatigue.
Negative ions
Negative ions are odorless, tasteless, and invisible ions that are in abundance in certain environments like mountains, waterfalls, and beaches. Once they reach the bloodstream, negative ions are believed to produce biochemical reactions that decrease levels of serotonin, the hormone associated with stress helping to relieve stress (calming), alleviate depression, and boost daytime energy and increase defense against infection. They have also been found to help in case of breathing problems.
In a study conducted on the amount of negative ions in various environments- it was found that the quantities of negative ions were:
In regular room with windows: approximately 150 ion/cm3.
Near river: approximately 600 ion/cm3.
Near big fountain: approximately 1000 ion/cm3.
Near waterfall (half the size of Niagara): approximately 3000 ion/cm3.
Near big Tourmaline stone: approximately 500 - 2000 ion/cm3.
Measurements were performed under 60 seconds in a closed room with a temperature of 25 oC, and humidity of 35%.
NEO Tec Air Purifiers a reputed air purifier firm show the survey table of negative ions’ concentration.
There is a definite co-relation between the presence of negative ions in the air around us and our physical and mental health has been established. The table below shows this correlation.
|Correlative table of negative ions and health |
|Concentration |
|Correlativity |
| |
|< 50 ions/cc |
| |
|Induce physiological impediment |
| |
|1,000-2,000 ions/cc |
| |
|Meet the essential demand for health |
| |
|5,000-50,000 ions/cc |
| |
|Increase one's immunity & resistance to disease |
| |
|50,000-100,000 ions/cc |
| |
|Kill bacteria & reduce infection of disease |
| |
|100,000-500,000 ions/cc |
| |
|Self recovery from disease |
| |
Table 1.2-corelation of negative ion and health
TOURMALINE- A natures blessing for better health and good living
The name “Tourmaline” appears to have been derived from the Sinhalese term turmali, which was applied by the ancient Ceylonese merchants to mixed gemstones of unproved identities [9]. Its use as a decorative stone may be traced back as far as 27 BC to 395 AD.
Tourmaline was first discovered on the Isle of Elba and even today one of the varieties of Tourmaline is called Elbaite. The Dutch were aware of tourmaline as early as 1703 and utilized its magnetic qualities to remove ash from meerschaum pipes. During the Second World War, it was used in the production of pressure sensitive gauges for submarine instrumentation as well as other war equipment.
Today tourmaline is used in a variety of products like hair brushes, hair strengtheners and stylers, therapeutic utensils, footpatches, umbrellas, nose masks etc.
Use of pulverized tourmaline (sizes of ( 2 (m) in the finishing composition for wool was initially patented in 1990. The finished wool was claimed to have therapeutic effects of the healing. Today there are more than 150 patents covering the use of tourmaline in the production of fibres and finishing of yarns and fabrics.
VARIETIES
Colour is mostly used to determine the variety of Tourmaline. It is found in more hues, shades and nuances than any other gem. Not only does tourmaline come in every possible color, but some tourmalines have more than one color in the same stone. A few of the important varieties are:Rubellite - red ,Indicolite - blue ,Chrome - intense green colored by chromium/vanadium,Bi-Color - tourmalines which display two or more colors in the same stone ,Watermelon - Bi-color tourmalines which show a green skin and a red core; these are often cut as slices ,Canary - bright yellow tourmaline from Malawi ,Paraíba - intense blue to green from Paraíba, Brazil, colored by copper ,Cat's Eye - chatoyant tourmaline in a variety of colors ,Color-Change - changes from green in daylight to red in incandescent light, Other varieties are sold simply with a color prefix, as in “pink tourmaline.” Figure 1 shows various varieties of tourmaline.
Figure 1.3: Tourmaline varieties
Therapeutic Properties of Tourmaline (METAPHYSICAL PROPERTIES)
Tourmaline is considered lucky for artists, writers and other persons pursuing creative careers.In general, the blue varieties (Indicolite) are said to relieve stress. Green varieties (Verdelite) are said to speed general healing and help regain strength. Black Tourmaline is said to help clear the psyche of negative energy.
Pink Tourmaline: (Rubellite)
Pink Tourmaline brings love and friendship to the wearer. This is a gemstone with feminine energy. It promotes female balance and protection. Rubellite is claimed to have similar healing powers as watermelon tourmaline. It helps people become more compassionate.
Red Tourmaline: (Rubellite)
Red Tourmaline instills courage and a strong will in the wearer. It is also very protective.
Blue Tourmaline: (Indicolite)
Indicolite is considered a de-stressor and promotes sound sleep.
Green Tourmaline: (Verdite)
Verdite is also known as a Brazilian Emerald. Green tourmaline is thought to bring money and stimulate creative abilities. Verdite promotes male balance and physical healing. Verdite is an important gemstone to Natural Healers. It is believed to open a conduit for healing. This gemstone is also thought to help with indigestion.
Black Tourmaline: (Schorl)
Black Tourmaline or Schorl is considered one of the most potent of all gemstones. It does double duty. It works both as a Healing gemstone and as a cleansing gemstone.
Schorl is one of the most potent gemstones for dispelling negativity and depression while at the same time providing powerful protection. It helps those full of feelings of doom and fear. Schorl is also said to repel negative energy. Black Tourmaline may bring reason to persons with daredevil tendencies. It is also thought helpful in grounding abusers. Black Tourmaline is helpful to those feeling depressed, sad and fearful. It is beneficial for constipation, lower back pain, reproductive issues, and insomnia. Black tourmaline has also been used to deflect radiation energy from TVs and computer monitors.
Watermelon Tourmaline: (Rubellite/Verdite/Elbaite)
Watermelon tourmaline, with its contrasting pink and green banding, represents opposites (like yin and yang or male and female, or hot and cold). It is said to have a calming effect during emotional upheavals or when there are conflicts between people of different temperaments. Watermelon Tourmaline balances the male/female energies. It is thought to reduce nervousness and anxiety.
Colorless Tourmaline: (Achroite)
Achroite helps attune to higher beings.
Brown Tourmaline: (Dravite)
Dravite is considered to have a stabilizing effect
COMPOSITION
Tourmaline is one of the most complexes of all mineral groups, and includes the following species: • Buergerite: NaFe3+3Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(O)3(OH) • Chromdravite NaMg3 [Cr:Fe3+] 6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4 • Elbaite: Na(Li1.5Al1.5)Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4 • Feruvite: CaFe2+3 [Al5Mg] (BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4 • Foitite: [Fe2+2(Al:Fe3+)] Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4 • Liddicoatite: Ca(Li2Al)Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4 • Magnesiofoitite: [Mg2+2(Al3+)] Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4 • Olenite: NaAl3Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(O)3(OH) • Povondraite: NaFe3+3Fe3+6(BO3)3Si6O18(O)3(OH) • Rossmanite: (LiAl2)Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4 • Schorl: NaFe2+3Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4 • Uvite: CaMg3 [Al5Mg] (BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4
In summary, tourmaline is a complex aluminum boro-silicate, with heavy emphasis on the “complex”.
PROPERTIES
Hardness (Mohs)
7 to 7.5
Specific Gravity
3.06 (+0.20; -0.06)
Refractive Index
1.624-1.644 (0.18-0.40; usually 0.20, may be greater in dark stones); doubly refractive, uniaxial negative
Crystal System
Hexagonal-trigonal
Tourmaline belongs to the trigonal crystal system and is usually found as prismatic crystals with rounded triangular cross sections. It is vertically striated, parallel to the c axis. Sometimes wavy fracture lines are present perpendicular to the c axis. Figure 2 shows the crystal structure of tourmaline.
Figure 1.4: Crystal structure of Tourmaline
Colors
Almost all colors
Dispersion
0.017
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: SCHROL
• Color is black. • Luster is vitreous to sub metallic. • Transparency: crystals are opaque. • Crystal System is trigonal; Hexagonal; 3 m. • Crystal Habit is typically elongated three sided prisms. The terminations can be either a simple to complex trigonal pyramid or flat basal face. The prism faces are usually striated lengthwise. In cross section, all tourmalines will appear predominantly triangular in shape. Doubly terminated crystals are hemimorphic meaning that the two ends of the crystal are not exactly alike. Massive forms can also be found. • Fracture is uneven to conchoidal. • Hardness is 7 - 7.5 • Specific Gravity is 3.2+ (slightly heavier than average) [pic] [pic] [pic]
Figure 1.5: Crystal structure of Tourmaline (schrol)
A generic formula for the entire Tourmaline group is:
X1 Y3 Al6 B3 Si6 (OH)4
X = Na and/or Ca
Y = Mg, Li, Al, and/or Fe2+
This creates the formula:
(Na,Ca) (Mg,Li,Al,Fe2+)3 Al6 B3 Si6 (OH)4
Nanotechnology is a rapidly growing science of producing and utilizing nano-sized particles that measure in nanometers (1nm= 1 billionth of a meter).The word nanotechnology has come from Greek prefix nano. Nanotechnology can provide improvement in textile performance without diminishing the aesthetic properties of textiles because lower loadings are required when nano particles are used. (karst D.,yang Y.,2006).Nano technology is very much used for human advantage in textiles.
SCREEN PRINTING
Screen printing has been used as it was relatively simple method of printing which can be carried out without the use of complicated and expensive equipments. Screen printing is an extension of stenciling. One screen is required for every color in the design. One advantage of screen printing is that it may be done in any selected area and all over print need not be done. This can substantially reduce color usage.
PIGMENT PRINTING
▪ Pigment printing came in vogue in the fifties when there was a need for dyes for printing, which were of easy application. The variation and ease of application and possibility of seeing the near final print at the printing stage itself was a boon to printers.
SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY
Sedentary lifestyle today, has led to various health problems and disorders. A range of common situations can cause stress. However, people have very different responses to stress. Common stress reactions include tension, irritability, inability to concentrate, and a variety of physical symptoms that include headache and a fast heartbeat. The Chinese adepts well knew the power of this ionization process. They call the energy in the body chi, and they say it comes from the air, from water and from food. In his book The Tao of Health, Sex and Longevity, author and longevity expert Daniel Reid says, "Since there exists no equivalent term in English for 'Chi' or 'Prana', we shall refer to it as 'bionic' or 'bioelectric' energy. This combines the idea of living energy uniquely associated with living organisms (bio-) with that of electricity (-electric) and negatively charged ions (-ionic)."
It is with idea in mind that the present study has been designed to create a textile which could enhance this body energy through use of a nature available source of negative ions (nano particles of tourmaline) which in turn have a positive health effects. Tourmaline when combined with the print paste used in the textile printing can surely have better health effects on the user. A person is exposed to bed linen for about 6- 10 hours a day and this creates a scope for achieving healthful results through use of tourmaline on bed linen
METHODS AND MATERIALS
Stress is a common denominator is today’s high performance society. It is clear that stress can temporarily weaken the immune system and put people under the risk of contacting diseases.
In order to prevent all such problems from occurring, a healthy and peaceful life is very important. Good health induces good sleep. Negative ions reduce secondary effects of stress in behavior and performance. Negative ions have long been associated with improvements in mood and physical health. The serotogeneric system is known to modulate mood, emotion, sleep and appetite and thus is implicated in the control of numerous behavioral and physiological functions. Low serotonin levels are believed to be the cause of many cases of mild to severe depression, which can lead to symptoms such as anxiety, apathy, fear, and feelings of worthlessness, insomnia and fatigue. Black Tourmaline or Schorl is considered one of the most potent of all gemstones. It produces negative ions, which have positive health effects on body and mind.
Cotton fabric is known for its soft, porous, breathable and absorbent properties. It is generally used as bed linen and sheet material in India. Therefore, this study was carried out on cotton (poplin) fabric having gsm 250gm/m2and thread count 100 wpx75wf. Tourmaline is known for its generation of negative ions. These can purify air, eliminate stress of human body and promote better health, inspire negative ion to human body and keep vital. Therefore, nano particle of tourmaline (schrol) was used in the print pastes namely print paste A and print paste B.
To achieve the mentioned above objectives, the study was conducted in the following phases.
PHASE –I: MARKET SURVEY
▪ A survey was conducted in four stores of Delhi for different types of fabrics used in home furnishings.
HOME SAAZ JAGDIST STORES
J-44, Central Market 39, Ring road,
Lajpat Nagar, Lajpat Nagar
Delhi-110024 Delhi-110024
FLOORS AND FURNISHINGS BOMBAY DYEING
Gurdwara Road, J-27,
Karol Bagh South Extension, Part-I
New delhi-110005 Delhi-110029
It was found that, cotton and blend of cotton and polyester was largely used as bed linens and knits too were seen in minimal quantities. It is most popularly used as bed linen material- An essential home textile, in India
PHASE – II
Tourmaline was sourced from Textiles department of IIT-DELHI and then it was ground in an electronic grinding machine manufactured by retsch which works on the pulverization principle. Tourmaline balls weighing 20gms each were put in the container of the machine, machine was started and due to the high speed the tourmaline balls comes in contact with each other and the particles gets crushed.
PHASE – III
2.1 Preparation of printing paste
A. Print paste with GLN binder: This paste was sourced from M/S clariant chemicals ltd. It was ready to use print paste. The exact recipe was unavailable as company did not disclose it to us as a company policy. B. Print paste with SLN binder: Recipe
BINDER
SLN binder 120 ml
Water 100 ml
Urea 25 gm
Catalyst DAP 25 gm
Acrofix 2 drops
Kerosene oil 730 ml
Acramin Pigment 6 parts
Total 1000 parts
The two printing pastes ware taken individually and 2 different colors were added into them and then, they were divided in 3 parts each, which were further mixed with 40% conc. mixture of tourmaline taken in three different percentages i.e.2%, 4%, 6% for both the print pastes.
2. PRINTING OF FABRIC
Test print was done on these fabrics: ▪ Cotton (poplin) fabric. ▪ Blended fabric (cotton and polyester-67% and 33%). ▪ Printing was done on single jersey knitted fabric.
All the fabrics were screen printed in striped pattern measuring 10 X 4cm. So that it can be easily tested for ion generation /sq cm. Evaluation on cotton woven fabrics were far better than on blend and knit was rejected because of lack of popularity in the Indian market at present.
Therefore, this study was carried out on cotton (poplin) fabric having gsm 2.8 gm/cm2 and thread count 100 wp x 75 wf.
3. CURING OF THE PRINTED FABRIC The fabric was cured at 110o c for 3 minutes in oven.
PHASE-IV QUALITATIVE TESTING OF TOURMALINE PRINTED SAMPLES
COLOR FASTNESS TESTS
Negative ion generation tests and color fastness tests of the printed samples were done for washing, sunlight, crocking (dry and wet) and of perspiration (acidic and alkaline). Ion generation was done using an ion counter machine and standard tests were done as prescribed by BIS standards.
3.1 ASSESMENT FOR WASH FASTNESS PROPERTY (IS 687-1979)
Samples were washed at laboratory level 1, 5,10,15,20 wash cycles.
3.2 ASSESMENT FOR SUNLIGHT
The samples were tested for ion generation and change in color after every 20 hours. i.e. 20 hours, 40 hours, 60 hours,80 hours and then 100 hours
3.3 ASSESMENT OF RUBBING FASTNESS {DRY AND WET} (BS1006)
Each printed sample was given 100 rubs in total in its dry state and in wet state. Their ion generation and change in color was noted after every 25 50, 75,100 rubs.
3.4 ASSESMENT FOR PERSPIRATION (IS 971-1956)
The printed fabrics were tested for human perspiration by preparation of artificial solution of perspiration. Finally, they were checked for ion generation and grey scale.
ACIDIC SOLUTION:
Freshly prepared, containing the following per litre :
0.5 gm of l-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate. ( C6H9O2N3 HCl .H20 )
5 gm of sodium chloride (NaCl)
5 gm of disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dodecahydrate. ( Na2HPO4.12H20 )
The pH of the solution is brought to 8 with 0.1 N sodium hydroxide solution.
ALKALINE SOLUTION:
0.5 gm of l-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate. ( C6H9O2N3 HCl .H20 )
5 gm of sodium chloride (NaCl)
2.2 gm of sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dilydrate. ( NaH2PO4.2H2O )
The pH of the solution is brought to 5.5 with 0.1 N acetic acid.
The samples were allowed to remain in the two solutions for 30 minutes at room temperature. Then, taking out the excessive liquid they were kept between acrylic plates under pressure of 12.5 kPa in an oven for 4 hours at 37+-2o C.
GEOMETRICAL PARAMETERS 3.5 ASSESMENT OF FABRIC WEIGHT IN GMS /SQ. CMT. {GSM}(BIS 1964-70)
GSM = (wt. of the fabric) X 100
AESTHETIC AND FUNCTIONAL PROPERTIES
3.6 ASSESMENT OF CHANGE IN COLOR BY SPECTRO PHOTOMETER.
The color of the finished product is one of the main features in serviceability in its life span.Therefore color controls a major challenge for all those dealing with coloring of cotton fabric.Change in color by addition of tourmaline is checked by using a spectro photometer.
After printing the samples with different percentages of tourmaline, they were evaluated in Minolta spectro photometer 3220d.The samples were placed in the spectro photometer and results were displayed in the computer, three readings of each sample were taken. The L*A*B* value of these samples were recorded.
PHYSICAL PROPERTY
3.7 ASSESMENT OF TENSILE STRENGTH (IS 1968-69)
Tensile strength of the fabric was tested on paramount dg strength meter. The readings were taken both course wise and Wales wise. Their average was calculated.
PERFORMANCE BASED TESTS
3.8 ASSESMENT OF CREASE RECOVERY (IS 4681-1968)
The ability of the fabric to remain pressed in creases and to recover from wrinkling is an important property for all cotton fabrics. The crease recovery angle was measured.
3.9 ASSESMENT OF BENDING LENGTH (IS 6490-1971)
The stiffness of the printed samples was tested by using prolific stiffness tester.The average of the readings was taken to get the bending length of the samples.
PHASE V: PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Keeping the objectives in mind, and the finding of the various tests that the printed samples were subjected to, a bed sheet and pillow cover were developed with tourmaline impregnated pigment printing paste.
The modern stresses we face in our everyday lives - such as deadlines at work or money troubles - don't really trigger a fight or flight response. However, they do release the same stress hormones, and this natural reaction can damage health and reduce the ability to cope with many real life situations. The study titled TOURMALINE IMPREGNATED PRINTING: A HEALTH ALTERNATIVE THROUGH TEXTILES was carried out to achieve the primary objective of developing a product using tourmaline in its best and optimal quantity in a print medium. The results of different phases of the study were tabulated and are discussed under the following heads.
Cotton (poplin) sample was printed with tourmaline added in three different percentages.i.e.2%, 4%, 6%.
The ready to use print paste with GLN binder- procured by M/S Clariant chemicals ltd. was made in green color and named print paste A. while Print paste which was laboratory prepared with SLN binder was made in blue color and named print paste B. Both colors were not in there pure intensity and value-tints of both were taken so as to be soothing on the nerves while going to bed. All tests were conducted as detailed in the previous chapter
All the tests that were conducted, their comparative results have been tabulated below with discussions.
COLOR FASTNESS TESTS
3.1 COMPARATIVE RESULT OF WASH FASTNESS PROPERTIES
The effectiveness and wash fastness of tourmaline based printed samples was assessed by subjecting them to 1,5,10,15 and 20 wash cycles and by studying their ion generation behaviors after every periodic wash cycle and comparing with the standard samples and Result of change in color with grey scale.
Figure 3.1: Bar Diagram of Different Washes
[pic]
The comparative results of washing reveal that at conc.6% has shown best negative ion generation in both the print pastes i.e. A and B even after 20 washes whereas 4% has shown overall better results with print paste B over print paste A.
The printed samples were also assessed for change in color with the help of grey scales. Print paste B was found to be more stable best (5), very good (4), as compared to print paste A.
3.2 COMPARATIVE RESULT OF SUNLIGHT
The printed samples were exposed to sunlight for 20 hours initially and then assessed for their ion generation with the help of ion counter machine. These readings were taken after every 20 hours of sun exposure going up to 100 hours and results of change in color by grey scales. Figure no 3.2-Bar Diagram of Sunlight Exposure
[pic]
The results indicate that the number of ions generated was found to be excellent at 40 hours of exposure to sunlight of print paste A with almost 78% increase over conc.2% whereas after 80 hours of exposure only 21% increase could be seen between conc.2% and 4% and the results were almost same at 100 hours. Therefore, in an overall assessment the negative ion generation was seen well in print paste A.
Table 3.4 – Result of Change in Color with Grey Scale
The samples were also assessed for change in color and then grey scale readings were taken. The sunlight exposed samples possessed best (5), and very good (4) color retention properties in both the print pastes even at 100 hours. So, addition of tourmaline therefore has not adversely affected the color fastness to sunlight.
3.3 COMPARATIVE RESULTS OF RUBBING (DRY AND WET)
The test was carried out on a crock meter and then the samples were assessed for ion generation (dry and wet) state and the results were tabulated .Also, change in color with grey scale after rubbing (dry and wet) were assessed.
Figure no 3.3: Bar Diagram of Dry Rubbing Results
[pic]
The results of the dry crocking suggests that there has been 23 % increase in negative ion generation of print paste B after 25 rubs between 2% and 4% whereas at 50 rubs both the print pastes have performed in the similar pattern. After 75 rubs print paste B again has shown 47% increase of negative ions whereas at 100 rubs print paste A has proved to be better with 62% increase between conc.2% and 4%.So, it can be said that print paste A has shown better results than print paste B in dry rubbing.
Figure no 3.4: Bar Diagrams of Wet Rubbing Results
[pic]
As wet rubbing results indicate that at 25 rubs print paste B in all percentages has performed better than print paste A, whereas at 50 rubs results of both the print pastes are same with minimal difference. And at 75 rubs again print paste B has performed better whereas at 100 rubs print paste A has shown marvelous increase and far better performance than print paste B by almost 60% increase in negative ions.
The printed samples were also assessed for grey scales and both print paste A and print paste B have given excellent (5) and very good (4) color fastness results till 50 rubs in dry rubbing but print paste B has given satisfactory result at 50 rubs in wet rubbing. So, it can be concluded that print paste A has shown good color fastness properties till 100 rubs in both dry and wet rubbing as compared to print paste B.
3.4 COMPARATIVE RESULTS OF PERSPIRATION
The printed samples were subjected to human perspiration of both acidic and alkaline nature and its ion generation was checked along with grey scale readings.
Figure no 3.5: Bar Diagram of Acidic Perspiration
[pic]
In acidic medium, print paste B has shown almost 60% higher reading over print paste A between conc. 2% and 4% and almost similar increase can be seen in other percentages also over print paste A. so, print paste B has generated fairly good amount of negative ions as compared to print paste A.
Figure no 3.6: Bar Diagram of Alkaline Perspiration
[pic]
In alkaline medium, print paste A has shown slightly better results in control and 2% conc. whereas print paste B has shown 60% increase in negative ion generation.
In both acidic and alkaline medium both the print pastes have yielded excellent (5) and very good(4) color fastness results except in control sample so, it can be concluded that addition of tourmaline has helped in the color retention.
GEOMETRICAL PARAMETERS
3.5 COMPARATIVE RESULT OF GSM
The gsm of the tourmaline impregnated print paste A of the control sample was found to be 31.6 gm/m2 whereas of conc.2% and 4% it was found to be 40gm/m2 and of 6% it was found to be 40gm/m2.In the case of print paste B, the gsm of the control was 40 whereas of conc.2%and 4% it was 40.4 and 50gm/m2 respectively whereas gsm of 6% had shown tremendous increase as its gsm was 60gm/m2.
AESTHETIC AND FUNCTIONAL PROPERTIES
3.6 COMPARATIVE RESULTS OF SPECTRO PHOTOMETER.
It is an instrument used to measure change in color. In this case change in color after addition of tourmaline in different percentages was measured and their L*A*B* values were taken. Table no 3.11- L*A*B* Value of Print Paste A
|PRINT PASTE A |CONTROL |2% |4% |6% |
|L* |69.65 |69.83 |68.10 |70.61 |
|A* |-25.29 |-23.08 |-24.13 |-20.74 |
|B* |38.09 |38.96 |38.11 |31.33 |
Figure no 3.8: Line Diagram of L*A*B* Values of Print Paste B
[pic]
Where, A+ = red A- = green B+ = yellow B- = blue
In case of print paste A as the value of L* suggests that the color has moved towards the darker side at conc. 4% and darkest at 6% level when compared with control sample so, addition of tourmaline has increased the darkness of the print pastes, and with print paste B the value of L* suggests that there has not been significant change in tone of the color. Whereas A*and B* indicate the movement of color from one to another.
PHYSICAL PROPERTY
The results of elongation of print paste A reveal that elongation of print paste A in warp direction is more i.e. more force is required to break the yarn in warp direction specially at 2% conc. with increase of about 20 % whereas not much difference can be seen in elongation at 6% conc. level. So, tourmaline addition has altered the elongation of cotton fabric for betterment.
Figure no.3.10 Elongation of print paste B
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The elongation of print paste B printed sample has decreased after addition of tourmaline at 2% conc. in both warp and weft direction and further decreased at 4% and 6% conc.
This can be concluded that in physical parameters print paste A has proved to be better than print paste B in both warp and weft direction.
PERFORMANCE BASED TESTS
3.8 COMPARATIVE RESULTS OF CREASE RECOVERY
Figure no.3.11 Crease recovery of print paste A
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Thus, it can be stated that print paste A in warp direction had lesser crease recovery than weft direction at 2% conc. and similarly change in angle at 6% conc. in warp direction and in weft direction .So, it can be concluded that addition of tourmaline has decreased the crease recovery of cotton in print paste A.
Figure no.3.12 Crease recovery of print paste A
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The results of print paste B indicate that in warp direction at 2%, 4% and 6% conc. The crease recovery angle has increased to a certain extent. So, addition of tourmaline has lowered the crease recovery property of cotton. It has been constantly degrading with addition of tourmaline. Whereas in weft direction the crease recovery minimal. So, it can be said that the crease recovery of print paste B in warp direction is low as compared to weft direction.
3.9 COMPARATIVE RESULTS OF STIFFNESS
The stiffness of the fabrics was measured in both warp and weft direction in cm.
Table no 3.19-Result of bending length of print paste A
The stiffness of print paste A has shown mild change after addition of tourmaline in it at 2% conc. in weft direction (1cm) and not significant change at 4% and 6% level with only 1.1cm and .9 cm.
Table no 3.20- Result of bending length of print paste B
After assessing the results it was found that the ready-to-use print paste (A) was giving a good to better results over all barring a few cases. Therefore, keeping in mind the performance requirements of bed linen, the GLN binder was selected for a final product development. A single bed sheet with pillow case was printed with GLN binder impregnated with tourmaline at M/S Art Palace, Faridabad. The design and dye color used on the final product were those that were already in use in the printing house.
