SUBCULTURES AND STYLE

Here I am going to be discussing design through subcultures mainly focusing on Punk and Skinheads and the design of a Dr Marten boot displayed in the Museum of London.
Between the years of 1945 and 1985 right after World War 2 there was a lot of changes in how different people grouped themselves in cultures and styles. People formed an almost cult of whom had interests and views which where similar and showed this by making a some what territory of a certain street or area. This was called a subculture.
Teddy Boys originated around the 1950’s after World War 2 when there was no longer a uniform had to be worn; it was a way to rebel against it. The style was more common among the wealthier society who could afford smart clothing; they were often associated with American rock.
Next came Mod’s, they were all about pure style, dressing smart and sharp with bold haircuts. Around the same time rockers and the grunge style was popular which caused a lot of controversy with the Mod’s and the Grunge scene and known to fight frequently.
In the 1960s skinheads formed from an influence of Jamaican rude boys who were known for the edge and anti mainstream desire. Skinheads were all about being cool, known to wear doc martins and have very short-shaved heads, even the girls. Later on in the 80s this culture rose again but this group were much more racist and violent than the original skinheads.
Influenced by mod’s then came the soul boy in the 1970s, known for their love of dance music and flares. A little later in the 70s the Punk culture submerged, money was scarce and instead of trying to impress dressing smart and sleek there was a desire to scare, ripping clothing and using safety pins to clip clothing together. Hair colours were bright and far from natural.
1980’s were the rave decade moving through into the 90s, ecstasy was created, house music was massive and people were all about casual loose clothing that they could sweat and dance in.

DR MARTENS
SOURCE- MUSEUM OF LONDON (picture taken)

these are a pair of Dr Marten boots given to the Museum of London by PR company Ogilvy, Adams & Rinehart for the ‘London looks forward’ exhibition. Typically used as a workman’s boot until the 1990’s when they were used a lot in fashion.
The boot is heavy, bold and make a statement. The shoes have an air- cushioned sole and a welted structure. The tag on the back of the boot is to verify that the air cushioned thick sole is there and to symbolise the brand of the shoe. With a black paten exterior teamed with yellow stitch it gives a punkie feel, the boots come up to ankle/ just above ankle height with laces going up the whole way.
The shoe is placed in the museum around other objects related to Punk and subcultures in London during the 70s, 80s and 90s.
In 1943 a doctored named Klaus Marten made himself an air-cushioned sole and from that invention created the first Dr Marten original.
DM’s when in production make a whole shoe/boot instead of making parts beginning with making their notorious air filled sole, each of these soles are checked intensely for any imperfections and if unsuccessful then it is recycled and put back into production.

SOURCE: http://goodclobber.tumblr.com/post/3309363266/dr-martens-how-theyre-made-and-why-theyre-great
IMAGE OF DM’S SOLE BEING CHECKED FOR USE

In the 1960s skinheads starting in East London began wearing DM’s soon emerging across Britain and then the world. Then by late 1960s and 70s the boots were getting worn by nearly all subcultures including punks, mods, psychobillies, Goths, nu-metal and grunge etc. They became a massive symbol of rebellion and the underground scene. In the 70s punks where big into the shoe, Sid Vicious, band member in the Sex Pistols developed into a big promoter of the product by wearing the boots regularly which progressed to rockers and skaters now wearing the brand also. Manager of the band, Malcolm McLaren married to fashion designer Vivien Westwood both where advocates of the brand also. They ran a boutique on King’s Road in London between 1974 and 1976 called Seditionaries’ where the Sex Pistols got their clothing to wear to their first ever gig played.

SEX PISTOLS SINGLE COVER, PRETTY VACANT 1977
SOURCE: MUSEUM OF LONDON (picture taken)

After this massive need for DM’s they widened their company to sell steel toe boots and ones with rainbow colours, polka dots etc. and till this day the shoe remains a influential fashion figure especially with underground culture. Dr martens are a culture and have massive aspects of engineering and style. Going to gigs and jumping around physically would be easier and quite comfortable in the Dr Marten shoe for the cushioned, springy soles, the shoe is designed for hard wearing and comfort, before they became such a fashion statement they were used for builders and working men which show it isn’t all about the style but infact about the comfort and use of being able to do a lot in the shoe.
They’ve always had something special about them, no shoe company ever has changed about their styles as much as DMs have, customising and deforming the product as much as they can and were probably the only item of fashion that was developed by nearly every sub culture and still to this day being about to purchase heavy metal ones which look sturdy and bold to candy pastel coloured ones plain, floral print, stripy.. and a lot more looking more feminine and soft.
The DM in the museum of London is an iconic shoe and when thinking of the brand that style is what everyone thinks about, the simple black bold design that everyone loves!

DESIGN BY VIVIEN WESTWOOD 1976-1980
SOURCE - VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM (picture taken)

BIBLOGRAPHY

PRIMARY RESOURCES

Museum of London, London looks forward exhibition

Victoria and Albert Museum, Vivien Westwood

OFFICE, shoe shop

SECONDARY RESOURCES

Documentary of Subcultre, http://www.fredperrysubculture.com/film

Street Style(British Design in the 80s), Catherine McDermott

Subculture, Cultural History and Social Practice, Ken Gleder

TERITARY RESOUCRES

CAMDEN MARKET

WEB PAGES http://www.bbc.co.uk/britishstylegenius/content/21865.shtml http://store.drmartens.co.uk/t-history.aspx

http://www.drmartens.com/files/Dr_Martens_history.pdf

http://www.drmartens.com/files/Dr_Martens_history.pdf

http://www.fredperrysubculture.com/film

http://jkrglobal.com/articles/champions-of-design/dr-martens

http://www.modculture.co.uk/category/culture/

http://popular.ebay.com/dr-martens