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Subcultures

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Which Subcultures influence to modern fashion

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Contents. Abstract………………………………………………………………………………………………3 Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………......4 Chapter 1. Cholo subculture………………………………………………………………...4 Chapter 2. Psychedelia of hippies……………………………………………....5 Chapter 3. Bloomers. Sport style………………………………………………..7 Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………………………..10 List of references…………………………………………………………………………………10 List of figures………………………………………………………………………………………11

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Abstract

Fashion is dynamic - it constantly changes. Moreover, some people choose the behavior or lifestyle influenced by fashion trends. Each subculture strive to create their own, such as to disassociate itself from the conventional, to preserve its originality and identity. However, some subcultures have other, and creating their own distinctive culture, they develop and enrich human culture in general. This article examines the relationship between few subcultures and the currently fashion through an analysis of Cholo subculture, psychedelia of hippie and sport style. Since the time of 20s century designers drew inspiration from street fashion and various subcultures that have their own unique style.

3 Introduction According to the 'Oxford English Dictionary online' defines a subculture as: «A cultural group within a larger culture, often having beliefs or interests at variance with those of the larger culture.» (http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/subculture?searchDictCode=all) This essay will address which subcultures is used in fashion industry as mass trend today. After exploring last trends in fashion websites (http://www.wonderzine.com/ , http://www.vogue.co.uk/ ), it seems that youth prefer more free comfortable style with bright colors. Thus, the text about Cholos, sport and psychedelia. One of the purposes of essay consider where and how did the subculture in fashion. Due to the protesting youth means manifestation of originality , individuality and expression have become bold experiments with clothes and its combinations; widespread eclecticism and deconstruction, which is essential to the modern fashion. Influence subcultures to fashion can not be overstated - not worth the extra time to dwell on the role played in this fashion, glam rock, punk and parties Vivienne Westwood 70s, hip-hop or grunge 90s. The set designers from the mid 1960s to the present day are inspired by the style of individual communities, united by a cultural code, ideology and appearance (to bring people together in this way has always sought and fashion industry). Today, in the course went very non-obvious and unpopular examples but influential subcultures and how they affect the current trends in fashion. Chapter 1. Cholo subculture One of the subcultures called Cholo. Initially, the term was used to refer to the local population of South and Central America, but in the 1960s, "Cholo" came to be called the working class Mexicans living in the United States and representatives of the civil rights movement Chicano Movement. Consequently, in 1960, the designation of "Cholo" picked criminal youth and became used to form an independent identity since a subculture. Firstly, to the Cholo regarded only guys, they wore baggy pants,alcoholic T-shirts and sports sneakers (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=cholo) , but gradually this style picked up girls. 4 In Urban dictionary(1999-2014) Female Cholo version is different only a large number of jewelery and make-up: arched tattooed eyebrows, dark lip pencil, arrow cat eyes, a characteristic high shaggy hair over the forehead and manicures. (http://ru.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=chola) Gradually, from the urban culture of poor areas of Los Angeles and San Diego it became a mainstream , which is took up first in pop culture (one of the first - Fergie and Gwen Stefani), and then in fashion.

Cholo girl

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/476959416758525210/ Nasir Mazhar s/s 2014 http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2014/ready-to-wear/nasir-mazhar

Chapter 2. Psychedelia of hippies

Psychotropic drugs have become part of the subculture of life in the United States and Great Britain in the mid-1960s: the whole ideology of the adherents of psychedelia expressed themselves in opposition to the Western world of consumerism and, naturally, trying to escape from reality.
After what happened in 1967 "Summer of Love" counterculture has taken shape in the hippie movement, which has elevated to a cult not only the principles of peace and love, but also the widespread use of psychotropic substances,

5 such as LSD. (https://www.princeton.edu/~achaney/tmve/wiki100k/docs/Summer_of_Love.html)
Being in a state of altered consciousness, in particular, imply an exaggerated perception of colors, textures and images and significantly influenced the formation of the typical image of hippies and on the development of graphics: in the course went acidic shades, smooth, like flowing silhouettes, textured fabric. Besides, the popularity of traditional Indian paisley explained by the same - during narkotripa colorful "cucumbers" evolved into funny pictures. (Wells, Brian. Psychedelic Drugs. New York: Jason Aronson, 1974. pgs. 19-20) In general, all the tricks in the clothing served to make the psychedelic experience even more spectacular.
The main agents of psychedelic-fashion boutiques were Paraphernalia in New York and Granny Takes a Trip in London, where they sold things designs by Thea Porter, Zandra Rhodes, Jean Muir and Ozzie Clark. ( M. Hicks, Sixties Rock: Garage, Psychedelic, and Other Satisfactions (Chicago IL: University of Illinois Press, 2000), pp. 59-60).
Heritage psychedelics can be considered the rave movement of the late 1980s with its acid colors T-shirts, tie-hell-giving and plastic jewelry - all these tricks at one time have adopted Franco Moschino and Versace. At modern fashion the psychedelic aesthetics also not spared - mostly in the form of neon colors from 2007 began to appear in the collections all the time. However, it seems that digital-kaleidoscopic prints are the echoes of psychedelic-friendly ornaments of 70s, and the return of TaiDai style. In particular, the widespread use of optical prints in autumn collections this year.

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hippie's woodstock 1969 The Kenzo Fall-Winter 2014/2015

http://mexicaliblues.files.wordpress.com/2010/09/455909077_27f211bdf41.jpg

http://www.vogue.ua/fashion/reklamnaya-kampaniya-kenzo-osen-zima-2014-20153510.html

Chapter 3. Bloomers. Sport style

One of the most powerful things in the modern fashion is sport: things originally designed for training in the fitness club, now fully fit perfectly in the urban environment, and heels give way to comfortable shoes such as sneakers and slipons. The history of interpenetration the fashion and sport can be observed from the middle of the XIX century: in 1849, the magazine 'Water-sure Journal' published an article calling for women to give up fashion while heavy crinolines in favor of clothing that will give more freedom of movement. Two years later, the famous feminist Amelia Bloomer appeared in public in a knee-length skirt and wide trousers like Turkish trousers, later named in her honor - Bloomer. (http://www.biography.com/people/amelia-bloomer-9216245) However, the real breakthrough Bloomer survived only in the 1890s, when women began to develop then popular cycling.

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Amelia Bloomer women cyclists

Further the echoes of sports subjects appeared in the collections of Gabrielle Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli (her collection Pour le Sport), and later - Emilio Pucci (clothing for skiing), Yves Saint Laurent (suit for hunting activities, in particular jacket Norfolk), Azzedine Alaya and Roy Halstona (top like the top of the swimsuit-bikini), Karl Lagerfeld (dedicated to surfing the spring-summer collection 1991 for Chanel), Donna Karan (dress early 1990s neoprene) and others.
Separately in this chronology is to provide 1970 - an era when the sport was an important part of fashion and lifestyle. By the end of the decade all addicted to aerobics and jogging not only on objective reasons as health, but also because it was considered sexy and fashion, in turn, became one platform where sport and sex merged into a single entity. Then, in the field of fashion design began to actively use fleece, lycra, mahr, polyurethane, parachute fabric, and the girls wore plastic visors as a fashion accessory. (http://fashiony.ru/page.php?id_n=87883)
Since the beginning of the new century sport still passed through fashion collections almost every season, but the next major wave of popularity came in 2012, which many people associate, in particular, with the London Olympics.

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Moreover, sports brands began to make collaboration with fashion designers: adidas by Stella McCartney, Jeremy Scott and Mary Katrantzou, Nike with Ricardo Tisci. It is clear that today sportswear massively perceived as inseparable from everyday life.

Vintage Chanel advertising Streetstyle http://www.pinterest.com/pin/504755070707155116/ http://www.pinterest.com/pin/448460075366778867/ Adidas x Stella McCartney F/W 2014

http://sneakerreport.com/features/the-adidas-by-stella-mccartney-fall-winter-2014-lookbook-is-here/

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Conclusion

The own style and fashion have each subculture. It seems that some elements of this fashion are beyond subculture and are acceptable for the bulk of the population, moving into the category of 'official' fashion.
Hebdige described: «It would not have tried to representatives of a particular subculture stand out and retreat from the official fashion, in the end it turns out that the mass subculture becomes, the more likely that it will be fashionable and conversely, the more fashionable among young people is a subculture, so it will be massive.»( Subculture: The Meaning of Style (New Accents), 1986)

List of references.

1) http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/subculture 2) http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=cholo 3) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oc229_1TjpU 4) https://www.princeton.edu/~achaney/tmve/wiki100k/docs/Summer_of_Love.html 5) M. Hicks, Sixties Rock: Garage, Psychedelic, and Other Satisfactions (Chicago IL: University of Illinois Press, 2000), pp. 59-60. 6) Wells, Brian. Psychedelic Drugs. New York: Jason Aronson, 1974. pgs. 19-20 7) http://fashiony.ru/page.php?id_n=87883 8) Hebdige D. Subculture: The meaning of style / D. Hebdige. London; New York: Routledge, 1981. (New Accents). -electronic

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List of figures 1) http://www.pinterest.com/pin/476959416758525210/ 2) http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2014/ready-to-wear/nasir-mazhar 3) http://mexicaliblues.files.wordpress.com/2010/09/455909077_27f211bdf41.jpg 4) http://www.vogue.ua/fashion/reklamnaya-kampaniya-kenzo-osen-zima-2014-20153510.html 5) http://marciamello.com.br/blog/4568/a-historia-da-moda-no-esporte/ 6) http://alchemiss.blogspot.ru/2010/05/amelia-jenks-bloomer.html 7) http://www.pinterest.com/pin/504755070707155116/ 8) http://www.pinterest.com/pin/448460075366778867/ 9) http://sneakerreport.com/features/the-adidas-by-stella-mccartney-fall-winter-2014-lookbook-is-here/

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