The Life of a Gringo Cachaco
A Gringo Cachaco, a North American from Bogotá, that's me. Bogotá - Colombia's capital - has a pace, rhythm, culture and dialect all its own, distinct from the Paisas, Costeños, Boyacense, Llaneros, Chocós or Andeans. Home to three of Colombia's top four universities, virtually every major Colombian corporation, its two most prominent symphonies, and a calendar-full of social, cultural and historical sites and events; Bogotá is "where it's at." As Lonely Planet says, "Bogotá is Colombia's beating heart… steeped in sophisticated urban cool."
Daily we enjoy coffee that has made me forget my Starbucks Gold Card somewhere in storage, guanabana helado, limonada de coco (I prefer CON ron!), a fruit and vegetable array that is a vegan's paradise, Arepas! (you must taste to understand), flowers and trees which enjoy a (literal) 12-month growing and blossoming season, roasted corn on a stick which defies description, and fresh juices… well… flowing. The city has more than 1,000 urban parks, from small pocket-parks to the largest, Parque Simon Bolivar at twice the size of New York's Central Park. Bogotá's restaurant scene is a fast rising star in the culinary world. These treats are all enjoyed in an average temperature range that varies through the year only very slightly from a low of 9°C (48°F) to a high of 20°C (67°F). All of this at a moderate economic discount compared to North American or European suburban life.
Of course, Bogotá has its downside. Having twice been "relieved of" iPhones, and having witnessed a stabbing on the TransMilenio (Mass Transportation), we are all too aware of the criminal risks in the city. Still, the city's mass transportation offers reliable, if sardine-packed, citywide transport at low fares. Overcrowding, traffic, pollution and a decaying urban infrastructure are all part of the Bogatano experience. However, so is the weekly Ciclovía, 120 km of car-free streets, and a growing bicycle culture. Bogotano politics seems more of a contact sport than I recall in North America, and poverty is a visible daily reality here, as are the daily consequences of an all-too-rigid class system.
Bogotá is a city in which we can, and do, immerse ourselves in a new and rich culture. It is also home to the US Embassy, Colombian governmental offices, the highest employment rate in Colombia and a relatively high English fluency rate. We have benefitted from each of these. Do not land in Bogotá with a mind to "slow down." It is a city on the move, and moves fast. You also pay a premium for the benefits of Bogotá. While the city offers a moderate discount from North America, it comes with a steep premium when compared to moderate size Colombian cities (population 100,000 - 1,000,000), where a quieter, cleaner, slower more traditional lifestyle may be had.
In all, we have found our home. We appreciate and enjoy Bogotá, but will likely find our way in time to a smaller community. What we love are Colombians. And we are in love with the adventure.