Abstract
This report is looking more detailed to this season – AW 2012 trends. During London fashion week, lot of new and well-established designers showcased cutting edge design in their fashion shows. During six days different silhouettes, colors, shapes and fabrics were seen. However, my report is looking more detailed at british based, Italian routed designer Antonio Berardi and his collection. Known for hard tailoring, Berardi showcased pieces that were similarly seen across other designer shows.
Table of Contents
1.Introduction4
1.1.Silhouette4 1.2.Color6
1.3. Fabrics&Texture……………………………………………………………………………7
2.Designer Antonio Berardi9
2.1. Brand overview9 2.2. Range overview10 2.3. Range inspiration………………………………………………………………...11
3. Fashion Communication………………………………………………………………………………….12 3.1. Antonio Berardi Women…………………………………………………………………………..12 3.2. Dress for society………………………………………………………………………………...…….12 3.3. Sexuality and celebrity cult……………………………………………………………………….12
4.Conclusion………………………………………………………………………………………….………1
4.1. Way of seeing Antonio Berardi………………………………………………………………..…13 4.2. Designer of the future………………………………………………………………………….…14 References………………………………………………………………………………….…………….…15-16
1.Introduction
It was from 17th till 22nd of February when elaborate catwalks were shown and well established as well upcoming talented designers showed their creative talents.
London is known for its diverse culture and that might be one of the reasons why fashion is much more brave and willing to push boundaries further then any other city. People come here for ideas and these are well established designers as well upcoming new talents that provide them with ..
It’s no secret to anyone that designers get inspired by historical fashion eras, however customers have become more demanding and it is skilful combination of aesthetics and innovation that designers try to give.
Nowadays simple item of clothing embraces innovation to demonstrate; it is diverse and versatile so much more than just one trend of this new, upcoming AW 2012 season.
1.1. Silhouette
The silhouettes and shapes on display this season can be roughly divided into two sections- firstly- lots of extreme volume in both skirts and dresses. Long length pencil skirt with a high waste (1940s inspiration) from Erdem, Giles, Emilio de la Morena, Burberry fit and flare skirts (fitted with a flare hem), hour glass shape (Victorian era) in Alexander McQueen, Mulberry, Acne and arguably the biggest season trend and “must have” –peplum which revived briefly in 1980s, seemed to appear across most of designer shows.
Big influence from 1970s silhouette- high waste emphasizing hipline- appeared on most of the Burberry Porsum collection, similarly Jonatham Saunders has taken this sihoute but achieved the result by using different fabrics. “Layer of meaning” could be the title of new seasons trend.
Burberry Mulberry Nicole Farhi
The feel of 1950s didn’t leave any fashion show as it seemed at least one garment in each designers collection was inspired from Christian Dior “New look” which redefined the look of woman after the war years with bell suit and tiny waist. Grace Kelly was a great fan of this style (Anne Helen Peterson).
Taking this to more modern and fresh look quite a few oversized and cocoon shapes were seen, as an example- Jasper Conran, John Rocha, as well 2011 Fashion Fringe winners Fyodor Golan’s debut collection featured a beautifully constructed cocoon shaped red skirt which could be big question marks for retailers.
Fyodor Goland
By contrast, more designers were wooed with the idea of simple, sleek silhouettes Trousers, for the most part, were loose and flowing irrespective of fabric; cuts were slick.
Cut out the bias (technique introduced in 1930s) was part of several designer collections such as Maria Grachvogel, Roksanda Ilincic and Paul Smith. (The skinny)
In jackets it was details of batwing from 1980s at Maria Grachvogel and Nicole Farhi, kimono, cropped dome style (rounded shoulder line) and as the same as with skirts- fabric hasn’t been saved on cuts here. Oversized, cocoon jackets and coats could be seen in almost every fashion show.
WGSN trend report Acne
1.2. Color
As we know, color is all-important for next winter but leave it to London designers to push the envelope in a mad cacophonic mix of color, print and pattern (ITFT).
Even though it is AW 12, colors seemed nowhere near the associations with dark, cold winter nights. Soft tones of lavender and pink dominated collections lined up for AW 12. Seen on cozy jumpers and delicate pleated skirts, these girly tones were teamed with black for the perfect way to bring the soft tones of the warmer months into autumn (The Telegraph).
Bora Aksu Antonio Berardi Bora Iksu
Dark green from the military mode,
And of course bits of red throughout most of designers work.
Jonathan Saunders mixed of colors in sophisticated and wearable way (Harrods fashion buyer).
1.3. Fabric and textile
Fabrics have responded by becoming more prominent and have started to assert themselves dimensionally on the fashion silhouette ( pg 21, The new textiles )
Most designers used the fabrics to enliven some simple, clean silhouettes as it seems there is no challenge to Maria Katratzou, who has managed to put together something much more then just a dress; amazing work of art; already successfully collaborated with TopShop, to make it more accessible.
Leather, in new and exciting forms, has once again become the KEY fabric of A/W 12, however not as simple as that, this season additional effects were added. Metallicised leather bronze gilets, and plasticised leather tops.
By contrast, armoured lamé (and related iridescent and metallic-effect fabrics), was heavily used in the collections. Antonio Berardi used the fabric to great effect in a variety of silhouettes, particularly in outerwear. Some designers chose to literally create shimmer with sequins; Eudon Choi’s use of paneled sequin sections in multi-fabric tops presented an elegant new way of using shimmer
Lace- seems to have a big impact on designers collection. Material which used to be exclusively handmade found less expensive alternative early 19th century when first produced with machine voven (The Style Sourcebook; 120). Beautiful range of gowns and dresses from Temperley London, twist of lace in Mulberry and Erdem seemed to invent a bit of lace in most of his collection.
And who could imagine cold winter mornings without fur- it has now become accessible to every woman’s wardrobe through easy-to-wear separates that fit nicely across all trends and into all budgets, it is being worked in to dress and skirt silhouettes, sleeves, accessories and with a mixture of fabric it has added new dimension of fur styling.
Fur details from AW12 Roksanda Ilincic Mathew Williamson
1. Designer Antonio Berardi
2.1. Brand overview
Antonio Berardi, born in 1968 in Grantham, UK, started his own label in 1994.
Berardi credits many design influences to his Italian roots: hourglass figures are his preferred silhouette (Victorian Era) and he constantly references Catholic symbolism. Berardi's designs combine sensuality with fine tailoring, quality materials and attention to detail. He is known for sexy, provocative, highly feminine clothes, which often incorporate elements of street style (Fashion Model directory).
Berardi is bringing a wonderful sense of execution to what he does; he is an absolute perfectionist when it comes to the make and finish of his clothes (Vogue).
During his career, Antonio Berardi has worked with many designers and well known brands such as John Galliano, Ruffo Research and Exte.
Berardi fascinated by technical achievement, designed a coat illuminated with light bulbs that lit up to form a crucifix, shown at his autumn/winter 2003 collection in Milan. His design was commended for its technical and artistic achievement by the fashion press. However, his most famous design was a trompe-l'œil corset dress in a black-and white color scheme, that was praised by fashion journalists for its "combination of the graphic monochromatic look and body-conscious silhouette" and was named the "Dress of the Year 2009" by Harper's Bazaar magazine (Kaneesha).
G.Paltrow wearing a trompe-l'œil
2.2. Range overview
A tiered gray dress opens the show, and even though it is crisp and unfussy, it is still one of the softest looks in the show. Floor-length gowns with peplum detail at the hip provide long plains of shocking red that act as a searing background for neutral outerwear. Monochrome tomboyish suits flesh out this mostly dresses-and-outerwear collection(Savoir Flair) .
AB AW12 collection
The designer’s signature precision tailoring was much in evidence, from oversized coats to fitted dresses with complex origami folds and pleats, as well skirts with peplum details. Column dresses embellished with sequins gave a futuristic warrior like feel. Berardi’s collection resembled most of trends that mentioned before; mixture of leather, fur and red fit and flare dresses.
Antonio Berardi evolved lot of textures- quilting, embellishment and showcased them with extremely good tailoring. Sculptured dresses flatter women very well and makes her look sculptural and sexy (Harrods fashion buyer).
AB AW2012 collection
2.2.Range inspiration
Shown in the Art Deco grandeur of Senate House, for AW12 Antonio Berardi took inspiration from the Rococo movement of the 18th Century- art and architecture was ornate and made strong usage of creamy, pastel-like colours, asymmetrical designs, curves and gold. Unlike the more politically focused Baroque, the Rococo had more playful and often witty artistic themes (Fashion tru history). The porcelain sculpture of the contemporary British artist Rachel Kneebone and Sculptor Giacomo Serpotta (Born in 1652, he became famous for its incredible Rococo stucco pieces).
Giacomo Serpotta – The Oratorio del Rosario di Santa Cita Rachel Kneebone
Berardi strayed from linear lines and focused religiously on the shape of the arc and the parachute silhouette. Serpotta’s molding work were vividly compared to ‘a wedding growing out of the wall’ by Berardi, though here his woman was much tougher than needed for any bridal fancy. He crafted a-line kick pleat skirts which fluted up towards a graphic high shoulder coming in bright neon tangerine and paired with softer blush and slate tailoring. Coats came in a bouncy silk and linen weave backed with bouclé and cut against the grain. Its great matte finish and the way it looked sculptural but not stiff gave the first half of the show its sharp modern beauty. Berardi introduced cobalt’s and monochromes in fluid blocks and focused too on the peplum, which curved at the waist on floor length beaded gowns, and lace embroidered tunics. Eveningwear came crystalline, sheen and furry in separates which was a welcome change from Berardi’s usual gown fetish. Fluidity favors the greatest( Xxodigital).
Designer himself mentions 1960s as an inspiration as it was the time of La Dolce Vita ( Sweet Life) in Italy and in Italian style, as well the concept of “La bella figura” hasn’t changed during he started his career as successful designer. Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz said: ”You must never say a dress is commercial. You must say it is desirable”. (Fashion Brands; 5)
It is collection of beautiful shapes and curves, sculpted to body; the perfect balance between feminity, glamour and strength.
3.Fashion communication
3.1. Antonio Berardi women
Designer himself describes his target audience as “A woman who is aware of her sexuality, sensuality, and who appreciates the meticulous nature of what I do.”(London fashion week). Dresses that fit like a glove, and tailored jackets that don't close but which fit like a glove also can be described as his trademark piece and knowing just that, it is easy to tell that every self loving women would desire to have Berardi designed dress, however because of the high tech used in craftsmanship the price range wouldn’t allow his brand to be called as cheap and chic.
3.2. Dress for society
It has been long back when clothes separated groups in our society, and nowadays it is the first thing out of which we make our opinion about someone.
What other observation we have when we see exceptionally crafted dress with sequined details and almost haute couture like design? Antonio Berardi women dresses for social status just like anyone else does, however it is more distinguished target market that appreciates price for quality and can pay for it. Even though Malcolm Barnard theory suggests that clothes indicates social status and people will make judgments based on this perceived status, which applied to Berardi design would be wealthy women, other part of theory however is completely opposite of what Berardi customers would be; It was felt that a high status garments needn’t be better quality or more difficult to make, it just needed a more conspicuous makers label, high saturations of advertising to achieve a desirable super brand status(Fashion as communication;58).
3.3. Sexuality and Celebrity cult
It is every woman’s dream to have the perfect figure and an outfit that would highlight her hips and waistline; something to be desired in ladies wardrobe. Antonio Berardi con shaping, Flirtatious and daring designs which remains at once elegant and sexy leaves you speechless, and there is no better example than Gwyneth Paltrow wearing black and white trompe l'oeil lace paneled corset dress to a film preview in Paris of Two Lovers(see photo of G.Paltrow wearing a trompe-l'œil). Antonio Berardi makes quite often appearance on red carpet.
Rosie Huntington-Whiteley in AB SS12 Victoria Beckham wearing AB Amber Heard wearing AB Spring resort
4. Conclusion
4.1. Way of seeing Antonio Berardi
Without having wide advertisement campaigns compared to other brands, designer has still gained his attention and raised popularity.
Latest notable appearance of Antonio Berardi design was in Land Del Rey- Born to Die video which has achieved lots of public attention.
Land Del Rey wearing AB in her video
Antonio Berardi visual appearance- weather its online shopping, editorials, covers, its own webpage, or ladies wearing his design, always has sophisticated and sleek feminine look. Seems like his own hand has touched everything to make sure it’s perfect till tiny details (see photos –Antonio Berardi).
“Clean as English gentlemen and proper like Italian style” (Youtube).
All photos from Antonio Berardi homepage
Net-A-Porter profile AB AW2011
4.2. Designer of the future
There is not a lot of information that can be found about this talented designer as even after being in business for more than 10 years, Antonio Berardi has managed to stay without huge public attention( that might as well be the reason why his design reproductions can’t be found on high street). In London, his collection is available only in Harrods, however Berardi has several stores around world and you can shop his collection online at prêt-a-porter. As there are no mass event held it is only the group of people interested who will know and wear Antonio Berardi design and if he remains working the same way, he will keep his name as probably the best craftsmanship in luxury market. Some critics say that his ideas are copies of Galliano's designs and he picked up more than inspiration while working with him. This doesn't faze him; he says "it is an honour to be compared to him"( Fashion Model Directory).
References
Books used-
Fashion brands, Branding style from Armani to Zara, Mark Tungate, 2004 The new textiles(trends+ traditions) , Chloe Colchester, 1996 The style sourcebook, Judith Miller, 1998 Fashion as communication, Second Edition, Malcolm Barnard, 202
E-resources used-
Artists chappela- http://www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/palermo-oratorio-del-rosario-di-santa-cita.htm (last accessed on 22/03/12)
Fashion Model Directory- http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/antonio-berardi/ (last accessed on 25/03/12)
Kaneesha- (http://www.kaneesha.com/Antonio-Berardi) (last accessed on 22/03/12)
Savoir Flair-
(http://savoirflair.com/runway/london-fashion-week-coverage-antonio-berardi-fall-2012) (last accessed on 22/03/12)
Xxodigital- http://xxodigital.com/antonio-berardi-ldn-aw12/ (last accessed on 23/03/12)
ITFT- http://www.iftf.com/publctns/London-Trends-RTW-2012-13.pdf (last accessed on 23/03/12)
Fashion tru history- http://fashiontruhistory.blogspot.co.uk/2006/04/rococo-fashion-era.html (last accessed on 23/03/12)
Anne Helen Peterson-
(http://www.annehelenpetersen.com/?p=1335) (last accessed on 23/03/12)
The Skinny-
(http://www.theskinny.co.uk/fashion/features/301414-london_fashion_week_aw_2012) (last accessed on 23/03/12)
London Fashion Week- http://londonfashionweek.com/designer_profile.aspx?DesignerID=1328 (last accessed on 28/03/12)
Antonio Berardi- http://www.antonioberardi.com/ (last accessed on 28/03/12)
Video material used-
Youtube- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ImptwkGghc (last accesd on 20/03/12)
Photos used-
Fur details from AW12- http://www.iftf.com/publctns/London-Trends-RTW-2012-13.pdf G.Paltrow wearing – http://www.fashionising.com/clothing/b--Gwyneth-Paltrow-see-through-Antonio-Berardi- dress-1390.html
Giacomo Serpotta – The Oratorio del Rosario di Santa Cita http://findingsicily.wordpress.com/2009/12/31/the-year-of-the-trinakia/
Victoria Beckham Wearing AB- http://www.profimedia.si/picture/david-beckham-wearing-a-tom-ford-suit/0096988249/
Amber Heard wearing AB spring resort- http://www.redcarpet-fashionawards.com/category/blog/blog-designers/antonio-berardi/
Lan Del Rey wearing AB in her video- http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/archive/2011/12/15/video--antonio-berardi-talks-about-dressing-lana-del-rey-for-her-latest-video--b.htm All photos from Antonio Beradi homepage- http://www.antonioberardi.com/cover/editorials.pdf
