The Luxury Evolution
Every generation redefines its definition of luxury. How they relate to it or reject it.
From the “more generation”, to the X, we have seen everything from conspicuous consumption to less is more.
Each generation also redefines its relationship to luxury. The evolution of social, political and economic factors is just a few of the major defining elements in any generation’s approach to luxury products. How a particular group defines luxury is often influenced by the preceding generation’s relationship to it. Is it a coincidence that the lean, Generation-X “less is more” philosophy of the 1990’s immediately followed the
Baby Boomer’s conspicuous consumption ideals of the 1980’s.
No business lives or dies more by the definition of luxury, than the Cosmetics Industry.
From mass to class distribution to direct sell, luxury is the name, of the game.
Revolution or evolution, defining luxury becomes the bete noir as the baton is handed to each new generation
The Cosmetics Industry lives on its ability to provide luxury goods
(No matter the definition) more than any other. It is imperative that we not
Only understand how varying market segments define luxury and thereby consume it, but equally important that we can predict how fresh and upcoming markets will define their unique relationship to it. As an industry we must ask ourselves, are we open to deconstructing traditional definitions of what constitutes luxury? What new requisites will tomorrow’s luxury products possess and are we prepared to deliver them? It is obvious that the nature of luxury and the products that embody it is evolving. But into what exactly?
From it’s earliest days fragrance was a luxury even for the very rich. First used in religious ceremonies, it was soon adopted by the ladies of the court. If legend be true,
Catherine Di Medici brought fragrance to France when she married one of those Louis, the rest is history. In the twentieth century, fragrance and fashion met. At the turn of the century, French designers like Worth created their own perfumes. Still the providence of the wealthy, fragrances were soon marketed for woman of every economic bracket. The sense of luxury that perfume embodies, became a way of life.
The luxury evolution as reflected in scent began. The definition of a womans taste, style and sense of self could be determined by the fragrance she wore, the clothes she wore .
Luxury was the mirror that reflected her position in the world or at least the one she sought. While some things have changed in the twenty first century, many things have not.
Woman still use fragrance to feel special, but it’s become a luxury of necessity. Part of her grooming regime, she chooses from a variety of fragrances in her “wardrobe” to feel feminine, happy, luxurious of just to smell clean.
The evolution has been a trying one, sometimes a revolution in fact. With women’s identity changing and evolving, the desire for luxury can go from guilt to entitlement in a heartbeat. From boomtime to recession one’s sense of worth and self worth can change the mood of an entire generation.
In the past, luxury was embodied in the product or experience itself. The product (a
Cartier wristwatch) or the experience (the Orient Express) was in itself the means to the end. These things were, after all, luxurious “indulgences”which needed no rationale or justification. In cosmetic terms it meant buying the lastest fragrance tested by a model at Bloomingdales just because, or buying yet another shade of pink lipstick even though you already had fifteen pink lipsticks at home.
Today, the consumption of luxury is different. The impetus to purchase or obtain is fueled by different emotions and a more insightful evaluation process. Consumers no longer buy just for the sake of buying. Even those who can afford it, now look for more meaning in their luxuries. This is where new marketing horizons appear.
It is no longer about, “I am worth it”. That used to be the raison d’etre. Now it is about,
“I am worth it but do I really need it?” This response actually presents an opportunity to marketers. Creating a need for specific products. The world’s finest (luxury) radio that you need because it is practical and efficient. Value, design and quality. (A luxury that you need).
One man’s luxury is another man’s normal. Depending on his income or habit. It is the fantasy of luxury and it’s aspiration that is the essence of our business.
Luxury used to be a mink coat, when Marilyn Monroe sang “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend” in the ‘50’s. The ultimate dream machine was the Cadillac, dining on Lobster
Newberg (sp) or Steak Diane were considered haute cuisine. Today the greatest luxury is time. The time to live and enjoy life. Keeping us healthy and fit to survive it.
Along with those little luxuries that keep us ambitious; electronic toys, wristwatches and shoes seem to be the acquisitions du jour at the moment. With well being and longevity high on the radar screen, sushi and granola bars are the now gourmet. Living and living longer are both a luxury and a priority. Fragrances, which had gone through a rather generic phase in the 1990’s, have re-invented themselves in a modern version of the more glamorous image of the 80’s. Fragrance is once again the special luxury for the deserving. Beautiful, collectible bottles and signature scents that are not afraid to have personality.

The Luxury Evolution keeps spinning. Those of us who live by these trends must embrace them and reflect them in our products and designs. Fragrance is a gift of luxury. Let’s make sure to wrap it carefully.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Marc Rosen is an internationally known marketer and designer. The winner of six fifi
Awards, he is the President and CEO of Marc Rosen Associates, Pret-a-Porter and
ACCESSmr. He is both the organizer and moderator of a panel at this month’s Lube
Pack show in Monaco on this very topic.