A global brand needs a prominent shop window. On March 15th Inditex opened a huge outlet on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan, having bought the store for $324m last year. (Even after adjusting for inflation, that is more than the Louisiana Purchase of 1803, in which America bought all or part of 15 states.) The aim is not merely to sell to New Yorkers, but to convince shoppers everywhere that Zara is hip.

Inditex's formula has not worked everywhere. Zara has struggled in America, for instance. It sells trendy cuts and slim fits. Outside the biggest cities, Americans have long preferred classic, roomier clothes (though this may be changing). Chinese office ladies like Zara's slim fits more, says Fraser Ramzan of Nomura, a bank. Iria Campos, a Zara designer, says Chinese women choose pastels to flatter their pale skin rather than the stronger colours Europeans prefer; but otherwise they have surprisingly similar tastes.

Still, China will not be easy. Zara's clothes are far pricier than local rivals', whereas in Europe they are relatively cheap. And because of the distance from La Coruña, Zara must charge more in absolute terms as well. So it has to convince Chinese shoppers that it is luxurious enough to justify the price tag. Its Chinese stores are packed, but its success is more fragile in China than in Europe, says Luca Solca of CA Cheuvreux Research in Paris. It must watch the quality of its products.

And expect hurdles. Last year China's consumer watchdog attacked Zara for poor quality. The firm denies that it was singled out for political reasons. But the Chinese government typically targets foreign firms first. Last week McDonald's and Carrefour were pilloried for minor