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Expedition Analysis

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On Top of the World

Avalanches, falling rocks, crevasse falls, severe exhaustion, dehydration, and even hurricanes are all likely possibilities when it comes to climbing Mt. Everest. Not to mention pneumonia, frostbite, the loss of limbs, or even the loss of fellow climbers. Needless to say, reaching the summit of Mount Everest is a no easy task. Even if the summit is reached, many deaths occur on the way down just as much as on the way up. Although most attempt to reach the summit of Mount Everest in search of "the thrill" and the immense feeling of triumph it may bring, we must never lose sight of the fact that Mount Everest is a very dangerous and demanding place both mentally and physically. Through poor planning and extreme unpredictable conditions courtesy of mother nature, climbers have faced almost insurmountable challenges, but it is not impossible to successfully reach the summit. At about 29,000 feet above sea level, there is a lot that can go wrong, but with a properly assembled team, safety as a focal point of the climb, and strong leadership, success can be achieved.

Having a well thought out plan will prove extremely helpful in trying to reach the summit of Mount Everest safely, but will not guarantee safety. Even with a well-functioning team that holds safety as their number one priority, nature will always remain unpredictable (Bruce, 1921). In the case of Mount Everest, nature is man's biggest limitation no matter what. In January, the summit of Mount Everest averages a temperature of -33 degrees Fahrenheit and can get as cold as -76 degrees Fahrenheit, it is also said that the best time to climb Mount Everest is during May, but there are still no guarantees (Green, 2011). Also due to the extremely high altitude at the summit of Mount Everest (about 29,000 feet above sea level), oxygen flow to the human brain is slowed, decreasing the climber’s capacity to make decisions, thus increasing risk and danger (Green et. al, 1987).

As nature's conditions cannot be controlled or fully predicted by humans, we must first focus on the problem of poor planning. The first step to a successful plan lies in having successful teamwork. This means, turning the group of various climbers into a well-functioning team that looks out for each other and the safety of everyone, and not their own selfish ambitions. Just like in Good to Great written by Jim Collins, it is important to get the write people on board, also known as the “who before what”. Getting the right people on board and in the right positions will lead a company, or in this case a group of climbers. And although we already know what the “what” is, having the right people on board can be the difference between life and death for some of the climbers. With the right people on board, everyone’s safety is not only a concern but also a priority. And while the tough decision to descend down the mountain without reaching the summit may have to be viewed as an “unsuccessful trip”, the group will live to see another day and possibly attempt another climb in the future.

Within this team, action must be taken to select a leader of the group, then for the group members to familiarize with each other’s attributes, preferences, and personalities. Usually, the leader of the group will naturally be previously selected, and will in most cases be the climbing guide who has had successful experiences in climbing Mount Everest. I like the natural selection process or “leader by committee”. In other words, the climbers come to a general consensus that a certain climber is best suited to lead the expedition, based on experience, climbing skill, and personality. By doing so, the values of the group will take an identity and fall into place because that person represents what each climber believes in. It is good to have someone you can trust in the top spot because when you’re on that mountain, they are all you have. This also eliminates the need for lobbying on one’s own behalf why they should be the leader. If you have to lobby and persuade people, it is obvious that others disagree with you, and you may be able to convince them, but they will not believe in you 100 percent. And when it comes to climbing Mt. Everest, there is no room for doubt. While experience and elite skill when it comes to climbing may be the ultimate trait, it is not the only attribute that matters when it comes to selecting a leader. The leader of the group must also be able to quickly build relationships with his or her fellow climbers. With building these relationships, the leader must be able to recognize differences in personality and motivation among the climbers. A person's personality and source of motivation will be the most prominent in dire situations. How the leader manages these differences will greatly contribute to the success or failure of the team. Since some are motivated by achievement, the team leader will have to recognize this and provide them with out of the ordinary tasks that give them clear goals. In an urgent situation, climbers motivated by achievement are a leader’s best option when it comes to finding someone who will complete an important task without attempting to take short cuts. The importance they place on achieving specific goals will hold them accountable, and keep them from deviating from the team leaders specific instructions. As far as motivation for the group, goals should be segmented and used often. By doing so this would allow the group to see the progress that they have made, and those who are motivated by achievement will thrive in an environment like this, hopefully raising group morale as well. While forming a team and understanding each team member is a step in the right direction in good planning, it is not the only step necessary to ensure a successful climb. The team as a whole must familiarize themselves with each other and invest in genuine relationships. Usually, when attempting to reach the summit of Mount Everest, groups of people will meet a few days in advance, quickly go over their approach and then begin their quest. But in order to almost ensure success, or at least improve their chances of it, groups should meet up a week or so in advance for a training seminar led by the team leader. Not only would this help in developing relationships among climbers, but also the training seminar (led by the guide) would focus mostly on safety and teach safe climbing methods that the climbers would need to use while attempting to reach the summit. This would also allow the climbers to get a sense of what the guide expects of them on the climb as well.

At this training seminar, the climbers and the guide would not only work together to employ methods for safety but they would also work together to form a safe climbing plan, guide lined by key safety rules provided by the guide. For example, the team and team leader may work together to produce a plan customized to the group needs. This could mean a variance in the amount of time the climbers will spend climbing at a time, when they reach and leave Camp IV, all revolving around reaching the summit by 2:00 pm, the last time to safely turn around at the summit and head back to the camp. As the team plans their approach to reach the summit, they should discuss in great detail what to do in case certain circumstance arises. The team leader should also be prepared to take charge and give each individual climber directions specific to his or her abilities.

Even though all the climbers may have participated in the training seminar and have attempted to build relationships with each other, there may be a climber or two that may be classified as a "potential problem". These climbers are difficult and in tense situations will most likely become problematic, as they will choose to do as they please rather than obey the team leader’s directions. Sometimes these climbers come on board and have their mind already made up to the point where no amount of training or team bonding will alter their actions. The best a team leader can do while working with these "bad apples" is to try to incorporate them in the team as much as possible, but if their behavior begins to effect the safety of the other climbers the team leader must be willing to dismiss him or her.

While reaching the summit of Mount Everest is obviously an extremely challenging yet rewarding feat, it must be remembered that safety is the most important thing of all. Success is not measured in terms of reaching the summit, but it is measured in terms of if you make it off the mountain safely, if you live to see another day, and potentially attempt another climb in the future. When it comes to Mount Everest, poor planning and unpredictable weather conditions are factors that result in dangerous situations that can prevent climbers from attaining their goal or even making it back alive. But with a group dedicated to teamwork and a focal point on safety, the chances of having a successful trip are vastly improved.

References

Bruce, C. G. (January 01, 1921). Mount Everest. Geographical Journal, 57, 1, 1- 14.

Green, H. J., Jones, L. L., Hughson, R. L., Painter, D. C., & Farrance, B. W. (1987). Training-induced hypervolemia: lack of an effect on oxygen utilization during exercise. / L' hypervolemie provoquee par l' entrainement: absence d' effet sur la consommation d' oxygene lors de l' exercice. Medicine & Science In Sports & Exercise, 19(3), 202-206.

Green, Stewart. (2011) "Mount Everest: Highest Mountain in the World." www.about.com. Print. .

Collins, J. C. (2001). Good to great: Why some companies make the leap--and others don't. New York, NY: HarperBusiness.

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