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Fashion Subculture

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The term subculture refers to a group of people with their own style and perspectives used to separate them from the larger culture to which they belong. There are and have been different subcultures in history, some were also rivals, with members of different subcultures becoming enemies automatically. The more interesting aspects of subcultures are the philosophical views, fashion style and music they created and how people adopted that lifestyle to fit in and be part of a big group. Gelder proposed several principal characteristics that subcultures portrayed in general: negative relations to work and class, association with their own territory, living in non-domestic habitats, profligate sense of stylistic exaggeration, and stubborn refusal of massification. Hebdige emphasised that the opposition by subcultures to conform to standard societal values has been slated as a negative trait, where in fact the misunderstood groups are only attempting to find their own identity and meaning. The divergence away from social normalcy has unsurprisingly proliferated new ideas and styles, and this can be distinctly observed through the existence of fashion diversity. Ethnicity, race, class and gender can be physical distinctions of subcultures. Furthermore, qualities which determine a subculture may be aesthetic, linguistic, sexual, political, religious, or a mixture of these factors.

The expansion of youth styles from subcultures into the fashion market is a real network or infrastructure of new kinds of commercial and economic institutions. The creation of new and startling styles will be inextricably linked to a process of production and publicity inevitably leading to the diffusion and spread of the subversive subculture trends. For example, both mod and punk innovations have become incorporated into high and mainstream fashion after the initial low-key emergence of such styles.
Subcultures, it was suggested, go against nature and are subject to abhorrence and disapproval by followers of mainstream trends. Regrettably, criminal gangs, homeless subcultures and reckless skateboarders, among other 'negative' portrayals of subcultures have been accused of dragging down the image of other 'positive' subcultures which demonstrate creativity and inspiration

The following are some of the most popular subcultures of all time and how they developed.

Goths
Nobody really knows where Goths came from – they just happened. They’ve always been around in some shape of form and they probably always will be. Just look for the black nail polish, crucifix, bat tattoos, long dark hair and Cradle of Filth t-shirt. Goth fashion is stereotyped as a dark, sometimes morbid, eroticized fashion and style of dress. Typical gothic fashion includes dyed black hair, dark eyeliner, black fingernails, black period-styled clothing; goths may or may not have piercings. Styles are often borrowed from the Elizabethan, Victorian or medieval period and often express Catholic or other religious imagery such as crucifixes or ankhs. Hippies
Born in the 1960's, The subculture developed after a youth movement in the 1960's and the word actually means "to be aware". They mainly opposed the Vietnam War and tried to raise awareness about it. The movement also attempted to teach about cultural diversity as well as spiritual concepts which spread around the globe and became accepted by many. The style is all about the long hair, the colours, Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds and the “loving” attitude. Nowadays, the “Hippie” look is back in fashion and the Beatles music still listened to by millions. One of the most iconic looks of all time would have to be that of the hippy. Immortalized by The Beatles, Twiggy, and anyone that went to Woodstock, this look was all about color, flower power, corduroys and looking laid back, man. Grunge
The nineties brought us nu-wave rave, complete with neon trousers and shell-suits, which people soon realized was a stupid look. However, it also brought us Kurt Cobain, and with that, a look that was adopted by millions of people for years following. Long, lank hair, knitted jumpers with holes in and scruffy jeans became the uniform of choice for grunge-lovers.

Emo
Radical youth subcultures seem to have died out over time, as there are so many ‘types’ of people that almost every combo has been done. Nevertheless, it would seem the emo look could be classed as the latest new look, even though it does draw comparisons from the Goth and New Romantic looks. Inspired by bands with long names such as The Day My Dog Went to Town or Fire Eat Boy Eat Lamppost, morbid youths all over the world decided to wear their hair in extreme side-partings, don neckerchiefs, black eyeliner, and jeans so tight that they can no longer feel their legs. The emo subculture has changed over the years. It started with jeans and T-shirts bearing logos and slogans such as "The Promise Ring" and "Sunny Day Real Estate." As the music changed, so did the look. Today emos are associated with a variety of fashion trends ranging from standout hair styles to skinny jeans. Emo is short for "emotional," and a key trait of this subculture is that these "emo kids" appear sad. This is achieved with thick black eyeliner and pale skin. Dark brown or black hair with colored streaks is common. Emo kids straighten their hair as much as possible and wear it short with spiky layers. Emo boys often dress in a somewhat feminine style with skinny jeans and small T-shirts clinging to their extremely thin bodies. Often the T-shirts carry the names of emo or hardcore bands that people outside the scene aren't familiar with. Skulls, crossbones and stars are associated with the emo subculture.

Punks
Some say punk was born in a small specialist London boutique owned by the eccentric Vivienne Westwood back in the seventies. the Punk subculture was not only about the fashion style and music, but also a philosophy. Modern art was very inspirational to them. Their art is a depiction of many things, such as political issues and was used mainly for album covers and flyers. In an extreme reaction to the other popular, neatly groomed and tidy style of the time – mods – the punk look aimed to shock by combining mismatched patterns, ‘work’ boots, ripped denim and lots and lots of safety pins. Combine with a brightly-colored, starched mo-hawk and a bad attitude, and there you have one of the most infamous subcultures of all time. Geek Chic
This style has a resurgence every few years, with the latest one still in full swing – think Travis from Gym Class Heroes, Andre 3000, Johnny Depp or Justin Timberlake. You too can achieve this interesting look, designed to make the wearer look intelligent yet interesting, by teaming thick-framed glasses (it doesn’t matter if you need them or not), drain-piped checked trousers with sneakers, and a tucked-in t-shirt. Rockers
In the early sixties, rockers were the rougher, dirtier version of Greasers, but the antithesis to hippies. To be part of this club, you need a mean-looking motorbike, long hair, tattoos and a curled lip. Indeed, this was the era where the Hell’s Angels were born – a subculture still going strong today, with all ages and creeds welcome. Gangsta
The emergence of rap music saw throngs of young people’s jeans get baggier and baggier, and bling increased so much it’s a wonder there aren’t more neck problems. The Gangsta look is still going strong, with clothing lines such as FUBU and Rocawear feeding the need to wear all things ‘street’, and icons such as 50 Cent and Jay-Z carrying on the walk-with-a-limp, show-off-boxers, plaster-on-the-face look like it’ll never go out of fashion. New Romantic / Glam Rock
It all started in the 1970's.The music evolved from psychedelic rock and art rock predominant in the 1960s and was quite diverse. I think I have never seen people looking more....eccentric than those who lived in the eighties; the wild hair, the numerous bangles, the leggings worn by men and women, and those boots, oh those boots! It’s strange how back then everyone looked (or thought they looked) cool wearing those clothes, but then again it’s funny how most could pull it off. I’m sure many look at their own photographs taken at some party, and are amazed by the fact that they actually wore those clothes in public, but then again, you think, oh it was the eighties, it’s fine! Greasers
The Greaser look – which was an product of the British Teddy Boy culture – can be summed up by saying the title of one popular film: Grease. Tight jeans, tight t-shits and slicked back hair was the über cool look for the boys, whereas the girls’ had large but perfectly coiffured hair, ra-ra skirts and lots of girly bows. Back then, it was all about looking cool, juke boxes, milkshake bars and smooching in cars.

Dandys / Flappers
Way back when the US was young and looked like something from Bugsy Malone with grown-ups, Dandy men and Flapper girls prevailed. Red lipstick, hair plastered to the head with lacquer and sequined dresses were the order of the day for girls, and the men wouldn’t be seen dead in anything but a pressed tweed suit with a bowler hat. The youth of that day hung out in back-street jazz clubs drinking moonshine and playing cards.

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