...New Look just after World War II. In 1867 Jeanne Lanvin was born in Brittany, France. She was the eldest of 10 children of a pair of Breton concierges. She first trained as a dressmaker at a house called Talbot and then as a milliner. In 1890 she opened a millinery shop in the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. While making hats, she also made dresses for a younger sister and her daughter. Lanvin's clothes came to the attention of other mothers with daughters, who asked her to make dresses for them, so in 1909 Jeanne began making dresses for sale and her reputation grew. She made no distinction between women's and children's wear, the youthfulness of both being an important aspect of 20th century fashion. Demand by young women for her clothes, persuaded Jeanne Lanvin to open a couture house selling mother-daughter garments. Paul Iribe, the famous illustrator, created the Logo for the house of Lanvin, from a drawing by Jeanne of the bond between mother and daughter. Her daughter became the Comtesse de Polignac, and continued to wear her mother's beautiful gowns. In 1913 Lanvin created her famous "robes de style" based on 18th century designs. These small waisted, full skirted dresses remained popular for many years and were fore-runners of the New Look which Dior brought out just after World War II. In 1914 influenced by orientalism, she turned to exotic evening wear in Eastern-style velvets and satins. During the 20's Lanvin made a simple Chemise dress which later became the...
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...‘Bvlgari creations are appreciated by customers worldwide for their bold, sophisticated and unmistakable style, in which meticulous attention to quality and innovative design combine to create a timeless elegance’. Bvlgari is a leading Italian global and diversified luxury brand renowned for their production of fine jewelry. Going back to the late 19th century, descending from an ancient family of Greek silversmiths. To sum it up, Bvlgari practices quality, excellence and glamour as the company’s brand value (us.bulgari.com). Figure 1: “Eccentric Charisma” 2010 F/W Bulgari Advertisement Campaign photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. To understand the context of ‘Eccentric Charisma’ the Bvlgari Fall Winter advertisement campaign, this paper will first briefly look into the background of Julianne Moore and the photography styles of the photography duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. Julianne Moore is a 49-year-old Hollywood celebrity with Oscar nominations in her credits. She is chosen to represent the style and personality of a Bvlgari woman, a choice inspired by her timeless charisma, which transcends the trends and myths of the moment to earn her a place not only in the history of cinema but also of feminine elegance (Benzinga, 2009). “We like strong, confident women, we like sexuality in a very sensual way—not at all vulgar. We hate vulgar.” Marcus Alas said in a 2004 interview (adweek.com, 2004). Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott are partners in the professional...
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...tall, slender, and full-chested. She had an exaggerated S-curve torso hape achieved by wearing a corset. Her neck was thin and her hair piled high upon her head, with curls framing her face. Wigs& Surrealism: Surrealist headwear wasn’t limited to hats. Wigs played a major role in the movement. Elsa Schiaparelli, the surrealist couturiere of the 2me period, was one of the first to make surrealist wigs. She commissioned many of these by Antoine. Robe of Style An alternative silhouette available to women was the Robe de Style, which was inspired by wide-skirted Spanish styles of the early 1600s, and originated by designer Jeanne Lanvin. Robe de Style Characteristics: • Full skirt • Drop waist • Mostly a fitted bodice • Skirt was supported by petticoats or panniers • sometimes imitated by Callot Soures • Lanvin also designed children’s clothing. Mass Production of clothing- Civil war * Civil War- body measurement data collection...
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...Created by: Marina Kim DESIGNER STUDY GUIDE * Haute couture “the finest needlework” * Paris became the center of haute couture because France has been the leading manufacturer of beautiful fabrics, including silks, taffetas, velvets, and brocade * Chambre Syndicale de la Couture de Paris was established in 1868. This was a professional body that was composed of haute couture houses and other firms that had made-to-measure dressmaking business in the Paris area. This union determined policy governing the fashion industry (such as copyright protection), establishing fair trading practices, organizing major biannual fashion shows, and acting as a mediator between the press and the fashion industry. * During the Depression years of 1930, it was necessary for the collection showings to be well-organized, pre-publicized, and spaced over a 12-day period. * Despite of the loss of profits, designers still create haute couture collections too publicize their designer brands or diffusion lines. * Le Bon Marche is one of the oldest and most influential grande magasins in Paris. They set the benchmarks that led the way to the modern development of mass merchandising * * Some of Charles Worth’s clients were members of high society, royalty, and foreign aristocracy * Celebrities such as actors Sarah Bernhardt and Lillie Langtry publicized his gowns throughout Europe * As his gowns became more known, his gowns were sent overseas to England & America ...
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...1920s Fashion: Style in The Jazz Age 1920s fashion was the perfect blend between style and function. Beautiful clothes that allowed women to move. Even 90 years after The Roaring Twenties ended, almost everyone still recognizes the style: * Cloche Hats * Flapper Dresses * Famous Fashion Designers * Elegant Art Deco Inspired Evening Wear * High Heeled Shoes * Simple Costume & More Complex Jewelry * Men's Fashion (suits and sportswear) * Art Deco Fashion Louise Brooks Wearing the Top Fashion of the 1920s History of 1920s Fashion Fashion is shaped and influenced by the society and events which surround it. Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening. -Coco Chanel 1920s fashion is still famous because it was a huge shift from the previous era. Society changed quickly after World War 1: customs, technology, manufacturing all rocketed into the 20th century. Society was speeding up, airplanes were taking people across the country in a matter of hours rather than a matter of weeks, automobiles could travel between several states in an evening. Young Women Dressed in Typical '20s Fashion 1920s fashion reflects society's rapid movement and change. No longer were women willing to trade their mobility for the old stodgy customs of the Victorian era. Old-fashioned torture devices like the corset and the crinoline no longer served a purpose for...
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...Oscar de la Renta was born in 1933 in the Dominican Republic. At the age of 18 Oscar left his native county and moved to Spain to study painting at the San Fernando Art School. While he was living in Spain he found out his passion for fashion and began design for many upcoming Spanish fashion shows. This soon brought Oscar to being an apprentice with Spain's most famous designer, Christian Balenciaga. Soon after that Oscar de la Renta left Spain and began working with Antonio Castillo as a couture assistant. In 1963, Oscar came to New York to design couture collections for a designer, Elizabeth Arden. After two years with Elizabeth Arden, he then became apart of Jane Derby Company as a partner with Ben Shaw and his son. In 1966, the label...
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...https://www.1976.com.tw/1976/category.jsp?id=8&pid=1 http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Giorgio-Armani/Si-18453.html [pic] Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina 芭蕾女伶女性淡香精是一款歡慶女性時尚的香氛,帶有雅緻、俏皮及清新的風貌。這款香氛的靈感來自於Salvatore Ferragamo品牌與散發女人韻味的年輕時尚女性的概念緊密連結,展現永恆的都會風格,不但富有創意,並帶有女性大膽示愛的勇氣。 Signorina,一個可愛別緻的義大利名稱,原意為時尚且極具義式風采、清新並充滿朝氣的年輕女性。 香 調: 清新花果香調 Signorina is a celebration of chic girls with a sophisticated, subtly cheeky and fresh scent signature. A new fragrance creation with the elegant and all Italian style by Salvatore Ferragamo. A fragrance inspired by the strong bond between Salvatore Ferragamo and trendy feminine young ladies with timeless modernity, creativity and a hint of audacity. Signorina, a lovely and chic Italian name that literally means young woman. Stylish, truly Italian, fresh and full of life. The bright fizzy notes of currant spiced by fresh pink pepper bring their joyful, cheeky character to green notes. A generous dewy floral heart is composed of elegant jasmine, pink peony and rose. Spontaneous and delicate sweetness of pannacotta together with soft musks and intriguing woody patchouli notes offer a racy Italian elegance and an unexpected addictiveness. Olfactive Family: Floriental Fruity Perfumers: Sophie Labbe, Juliette Karagueuzoglou (IFF) Signorina`s flacon is a statement of subtle elegance and grace. The squared design recalls a precious jewel box. On top, the flacon shows a reinterpretation of the iconic Vara bow in gros grain in two cheeky...
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...Limited Edition Products Promote Sales or Not There are limited edition goods everywhere. The packing of them is attractive, some of them are popular and some of them are not. “Steinway” offered a Limited piano with a special mahogany finish on its 140th anniversary. The quantity is offered was 140, and they sold all of them in hours (Balachander& Stock, 2008, p336). On November 23, 2010, H&M cooperated with Lanvin and offered a limited number of “Lanvin for H&M” in given stores in some Chinese cites (Cheng, 2010). Many consumers lined up the night before the stores opened. Contrastingly, many unknown chocolate producers offer limited edition candies for Valentine’s Day. After Valentine’s Day passed, those products are still in the stores, but on the “on sale” shelves. It may because the firms produce too many quantities, or the brands are not famous, or customers do not like their products. Companies could analyze consumer psychology and relate to their market conditions to decide whether to produce limited edition goods or not. According to Dubois, Czellar and Laurent, customers buy luxury because of both “hedonic” and “symbolic”(2005, p120).People enjoy using luxury goods for their good qualities, features, and styles. On the other hand, the luxury goods can also show others who the owners are. Others may link the famous brand and high price to the owners and then get the conclusion that the owners are rich and have high social positions.As known,limited edition...
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...Can you tell me a country as remarkable as France? You probably cannot. France is an astonishing country. The primary language of France is French. French is a language derived from Latin and 115 million people speak it as a native language. Approximately 15% of the world knows how to speak French. This language was born in France and it is spoken in many other places such as Quebec, Mauritius, Louisiana, and Côte d'Ivoire. France has many more things too offer than language. France has an extraordinary background, interesting physical characteristics, and a rich culture. The country of France has an extraordinary background. It is located in the continent of Europe. More specifically, it borders with Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Monaco, Andorra, and Spain. With no stupefaction, the most beautiful part of France is Paris. This is the capital of France. Paris represents the whole of France. Paris holds France’s best restaurants, museums, and art. In France, the native language is French. The French Government does not regulate what you speak, but the use of French is required in French businesses and in municipal buildings. The French Government is homogeneous to the American Government. The French Government is a Semi-Presidential System and a Constitution Republic. The leader of France (or President of France) is currently François Hollande and the Prime Minister is Jean-Marc Ayrault. America’s government is almost the same as France’s...
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...Quanta Computer and the One Laptop per Child Initiative Quanta Computer is a company based in Taiwan, China. They manufacture and design products for many major tech companies such as Apple Inc., Hewlett-Packard, and Sony, just to name a few. What turned Quanta into one of the largest computer manufacturers in the world? To start off Quanta is strategically positioned in Taiwan, which just like many other Asian countries has gained significant ground in the computer world since the 1970’s. With Taiwan's competition in the industry being so high it kept their margins and prices low, which is very appealing to many major computer companies. Component designs within computers also became simpler and more standard which made it easier for companies in Taiwan to produce. (2.) Based on the Network Readiness Index for 2013 Taiwan ranks 10th out of 144 countries poled. If we look at the GIT report for 2013 Taiwan scored 6 out of 7 for local competition giving them a rank of 3rd out of 144. With accessibility to digital content also scored high with 6.3 out of 7. Factor in their math and science education ranking 6th overall, it is easy to see why Taiwan is home to a major company like Quanta Computer. (1, p.268) Quanta’s competitive strategies were geared towards having the company become a market leader in almost every aspect of business it entered. We see Quanta recently move towards vertical integration by controlling many of its procedures ranging from shipping...
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...Gap in Japan: Market Expansion Gap Inc. currently has 198 stores in Japan, with 147 Gap stores, 10 Old Navy stores and 41Banana Republic stores. As the largest market outside of the United States, Gap Inc. Japan and Asia in general have been growing rapidly with 14.7 percent increase in net revenue while the sale of other international markets has stagnated. However, the three brands of Gap Inc. currently face strong competition from local brands such as Neighborhood and Music Earth & Ecology and international brands such as Uniqlo and Zara. In order to retain the current customers and expand on market share, Gap, Old Navy, and Banana Republic must each develop more distinct and specific market position. According to Deloitte’s report on Global Power of Retail, the apparel and footwear industry scored 3.05 on the Q ratio. Q ratio measures publicly traded company’s market capitalization to the value of its tangible assets; the higher the ratio, the more financial market participants believe that part of the company’s value comes from its non-tangible assets, such as market dominance, customer loyalty, and differentiation. However, Gap Inc. scored a 2.17 Q ratio, which is below the 3.05 of the industry, while competitor H&M scored a 5.5. When consumers think of affordable fashion brands, they would immediately relate to H&M. And when consumers are asked where they would get basic clothes, they would without a doubt answer Uniqlo (Q ratio 3.41). As of now, the brands...
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...Introduction H & M Hennes & Mauritz AB, now operating as “H&M” is a retail-clothing company, launched in 1947 by Erling Persson who just came back from United States, bringing the idea of selling fashion products for women at a low price from oversea. The first shop called “Hennes” which only sold women clothes, opened in 1947, in Vasteras, Sweden. In 1968, the founder take-over “Mauritz Widforss” shops : Hennes changes its name to “Hennes and Mauritz” and the brand will begin selling fashion clothes to men and women from that day. Then in the 70’, the brand started to sell clothes for kids “Fashion and quality at the best price” (H&M) H&M has been at the forefront of affordable chic for some time now. From its Swedish base, Hennes and Mauritz has grown into a major multinational clothes and cosmetics retailer. Nowaday, internationally known for its fast-fashion clothing, H&M offers low prices fashion products for women, men, teenagers and children including everything from modern basics to high fashion. The company has over 2,300 stores in 43 countries, in 4 continents (Africa, Asia, Europe and North America) However, the company does not have their own factories but work with plenty of designers and buyers from all around the world. In 2011, H&M employed around 94,000 people and is ranked the first largest global clothing retailer, just ahead Spain-based Inditex (parent company of ZARA). The branding consultancy Interbrand ranked the company...
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...Elle UK September 2013 * The High Street Edit – article : Pages 180-191 (pdf pages: 184- 192) * Fausto Puglisi : pdf page 126: Puglisi is the Sicilian up-and-comer, the latest designer at Emanuel Ungaro: scores have taken up – and left – the hot seat since its founder retired in 2005.Puglisi’s debut for a/w 2013 was a concise, credible view of the modern Ungaro woman. “Monsieur Ungaro was very brave, very heroic and he really loved women. So of course there is a space in this business for Ungaro today, which is about beauty, power, sex and fun”. “I want to bemodern, I want it to be fast. I want the girl on the runway to be like a Lamborghini – very independent, very powerful.” Puglisi’s eponymous line kicked off officially in 2010, when Dolce & Gabbana invited him to showcase his work as part of their Young Designers project, in their Milan concept store Spiga 2. But even before he launched his sexy, strong collections into the fashion world, he was dressing Madonna and JLo, both on stage and off. * Accesible Luxury - This season,many of our favourite high street brands took to the catwalk.Good news for you! -page 147 (pdf) RIHANNA FOR RIVER ISLAND * Where: The Old Sorting * Office, London * Front Row: Jourdan Dunn * and Cara Delevingne * The models: Tao Okamoto, * Ataui Deng, Bambi * Northwood Blyth * The music: KanyeWest * THE COLLECTION * River Island unveiled its first,much-hyped collection with Rihanna at London...
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...LA BANALIZACIÓN DEL LUJO Esta entrada a materia es una pista de reflexión sobre un segmento del mercado del lujo. Es una visión extensa pero no exhaustiva ya que será abordado sobre todo en eso el mercado francés; del acceso a ciertos artículos de lujo para una clientela que, de por su cultura y su poder adquisitivo, históricamente no tenía la aptitud y la costumbre de ofrecerse bienes concebidos por prestigiosos creadores. Conviene recordar que la noción del lujo es subjetiva y sujeta a numerosas interpretaciones. La base de esta reflexión es la idea que la primera definición de la palabra “lujo”es: " lo que no forma parte del necesario, del indispensable ". El lujo, lo contrario de común En su acepción más corriente, el lujo significa todo el superfluo. En esta noción, la idea subyacente es que las necesidades primarias, como la casa y comida son proveídas. ¿ Entonces, en estos tiempos de inestabilidad económica podemos preguntarnos por qué la clase media y popular que tiene la angustia de no mantener sus necesidades primarias, está dispuesta a dedicar un presupuesto que importa para la adquisición de un artículo de lujo? El lujo es connotado raro y precioso, reservado para una élite sin preocupaciones de orden pecuniaria. Esta élite se desmarca comprando objetos de gran valor. Quiere conservar su estatuto privilegiado poniéndose de manera más o menos ostentatoria por encima de las clases sociales inferiores. ¿ Si las clases inferiores pueden proporcionarse los mismos producido...
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...ANALYSE ET ETUDES DES MARCHES DOSSIER SECTORIEL SUR LE MARCHE DES COSMETIQUES ET PARFUMS SOMMAIRE Sommaire Page 2 1. Les chiffres clés du marché Page 3 1. Le périmètre, la France 3 2. Analyse des volumes 3 3. Analyse des valeurs 3 4. Présentation des principales entreprises 4 2. L’offre et sa commercialisation Page 5 1. Nature et segmentation de l’offre 5 2. L’organisation de la distribution 6 3. Les prix de vente 7 4. La communication 7 3. L’analyse de la demande Page 8 1. Les tendances de consommation 8 2. Les types d’achats et mode de consommation 8 3. Les dépenses et paniers moyens 9 4. Les attentes des clients 9 5. La segmentation de la clientèle 9 4. Matrice de Porter Page 10 1. Matrice de porter 10 2. Matrice de SWOT 13 3. La position concurrentielle de l’Oréal 14 Annexes Page 15 Sources Page 17 1. Les Chiffres clés du marché 1. Le périmètre...
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