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LA BANALIZACIÓN DEL LUJO

Esta entrada a materia es una pista de reflexión sobre un segmento del mercado del lujo.
Es una visión extensa pero no exhaustiva ya que será abordado sobre todo en eso el mercado francés; del acceso a ciertos artículos de lujo para una clientela que, de por su cultura y su poder adquisitivo, históricamente no tenía la aptitud y la costumbre de ofrecerse bienes concebidos por prestigiosos creadores.
Conviene recordar que la noción del lujo es subjetiva y sujeta a numerosas interpretaciones. La base de esta reflexión es la idea que la primera definición de la palabra “lujo”es: " lo que no forma parte del necesario, del indispensable ".
El lujo, lo contrario de común
En su acepción más corriente, el lujo significa todo el superfluo. En esta noción, la idea subyacente es que las necesidades primarias, como la casa y comida son proveídas. ¿ Entonces, en estos tiempos de inestabilidad económica podemos preguntarnos por qué la clase media y popular que tiene la angustia de no mantener sus necesidades primarias, está dispuesta a dedicar un presupuesto que importa para la adquisición de un artículo de lujo?
El lujo es connotado raro y precioso, reservado para una élite sin preocupaciones de orden pecuniaria. Esta élite se desmarca comprando objetos de gran valor. Quiere conservar su estatuto privilegiado poniéndose de manera más o menos ostentatoria por encima de las clases sociales inferiores.
¿ Si las clases inferiores pueden proporcionarse los mismos producido que la élite, cómo reacciona esta última? El lujo es contrario del común. Si todo el mundo puede proporcionarse un objeto de marca, se vuelve cualquiera.
¿ Adaptación o pérdida de prestigio?
¿ el mercado del lujo va a su pérdida haciendo accesible a todos algunos de sus productos? ¿ O da prueba de sentido de adaptación a una demanda del gran público?
La clientela francesa es impregnada por la cultura del lujo, la imagen de marca de una destreza típicamente nacional y apoyada por grandes creadores como Paul Poiret, Coco Chanel o Hermès. Orgullo nacional que forma parte del patrimonio común. En el curso de los años, el gran público se apropió esta imagen de marca. ¿ Por qué no lo haría todavía más suyo haciendo adquisición de productos nacidos de su cultura, su orgullo?
No hay que olvidar que el circuito de distribución de productos lujosos constantemente cambió. En el siglo 19, evolucionó. De "tiendas-casas", se vuelve hacia las grandes tiendas parisinas que ven la luz. La clientela no es obrera sino tampoco únicamente aristócrata. El lujo se vuelve burgués. Las fronteras se vuelven menos herméticas. Lo que el dominio del lujo vive hoy es posiblemente la continuidad de su adaptación en el curso del tiempo y en el sentido de la evolución de la sociedad. Lejos de perder su prestigio, el mundo del lujo probaría que proveía a cada uno su colecta de reconocimiento, de prestigio y de belleza integrándose en todos los modos de distribución. Segmentándose cada vez un poco más para no perder ningún potencial de clientela. Lo esencial que es salvaguardar su imagen de marca, su creatividad y sus destrezas preservando sus cuotas de mercado y sus beneficios. Sería pues una democratización que firmaría una " buena salud de marketing "
¿ El masstige, el sinónimo de banalización?
En el dominio de la moda vestimentaria, las colecciones dibujadas por los estilistas se abren hacia los grandes distribuidores. En Francia, Jean-Paul Gaultier fue precursor de esta apertura. Karl Lagerfed tiró el concepto de: masstige " que significa prestigio de masa. En primavera de 2011, pone a la venta una colección muy gran público en Internet únicamente. En los Estados Unidos Alexander McQueen rompió los circuitos acostumbrados introduciéndose en la gran distribución. Vende en los supermercados. En Francia, la clientela posiblemente no está lista todavía para esto. Pero hay que sin embargo tomar en consideración que los perfumes y los accesorios forman parte del volumen más grueso de las ventas populares; productos propuestos en los grandes circuitos de distribución y vía el duty-free.
El lujo se democratiza pero democratización obligatoriamente no quiere decir banalización. En el mercado de la moda vestimentaria, el sistema de las ediciones limitadas es del dominio de una colaboración temporal. Las enseñas gran público sacan provecho temporalmente del aura del lujo. La clientela se ofrece una parte de sueño pero los creadores deben plegarse a las exigencias de la gran distribución. Deben crear productos muy identificables y percibidos inmediatamente. El vestido cortado Lanvin para la enseña H*M es un ejemplo.
Los creadores también deben restringirse al nivel de su idea de calidad. En efecto, para volverse accesible, la calidad del producto es aminorada: el tejido es menos noble y los detalles como los forros o los botones no pueden ser utilizados. Esto se hace pues un subproducto que rechaza la clientela del lujo pero un producto lujoso para la clientela popular. Para no perjudicar a la imagen de marca y permitirle a la clientela estar inmerso en la esfera del lujo, estas piezas están sin embargo a serie limitada. Deben, para corresponder a la definición de lujoso y de precioso, conformarse la noción de rareza. Son las colecciones "cápsulas". El más célebre es de Armani que lanzó zapatillas de deporte para la marca Reebok a 1111 ejemplares para la gente entera. Qué se derive de la clientela popular o de la clientela acostumbrada a comprarse productos lujosos, esto da envidia de proporcionárselo. Este zapato es común en el sentido donde es difundida por circuitos accesibles a todos; pero es rara por su número limitado. Es ansiada por ellos todos por su medio de difusión, su golpe popular, su precio asequible y el prestigio que va a proporcionar de poseerla. Se vuelve extraordinaria a pesar de su pseudo trivialidad, porque simplemente es zapatilla de deporte; pero es el que hay que tener. Es zapatilla de deporte democrática porque halaga a cada uno en su deseo de desmarcarse, ser diferente. Poseer del bello, del raro, del prestigioso. Este deseo es común, les es común a todos.
Lujo extraordinario y eterno
Cada ser humano, de dondequiera que venga y de dondequiera que sea aspira al lujo, a lo que tiene de eterno y extraordinario. Es una parte de sueño la que totalmente necesitamos.
El mercado del lujo, adaptándose a las leyes de mercado se hizo trivial sin duda pero supo también dar prueba de adaptación a una sociedad moviente. Los segmentos de clientela son porosos, los cruceros de en otro tiempo no son tan estancos más. La sociedad de consumo borró con goma ciertas fronteras y banalizado los deseos de bienestar y de calidad. La envidia de poseer productos de marca se volvió normal, común. El mercado del lujo responde a este deseo común. Pero también cubre las necesidades de los que quieren más y desean desmarcarse. Inventó, el hiperlujo.

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