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Loara Castles

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W żadnym innym miejscu na świecie nie ma tylu pięknych zamków. Żadne inne miejsce nie dostarcza tylu niesamowitych wrażeń zaspokajając oczekiwania nawet najbardziej wymagających zwiedzających. Mowa oczywiście o Dolinie Loary, gdzie znajduje się zagłębie zamków. Loara właśnie z nimi nam się kojarzy, bo na dość niewielkim obszarze w otoczeniu zapierających dech w piersiach widoków, znajduje się ponad 300 średniowiecznych i renesansowych zamków. Położone są wzdłuż rzeki na przestrzeni około 200 km i 100 km szerokości.
Niesamowite jest, że te ogromne, wzbudzające zachwyt budowle są tak wkomponowane w otaczającą przyrodę, że sprawiają nieodparte wrażenie jakby były od zawsze jej integralną częścią. Zapewne powodów dla których swego czasu budowano w tym rejonie tyle było wiele. Te kluczowe to stosunkowo blisko położony Paryż czy łagodny klimat – zimą temperatura rzadko spada poniżej zera. Jednak uroki tego miejsca nie były bez znaczenia. Niewątpliwą zaletą były lasy pełne zwierząt i urodzajna ziemia. Nie bez powodu Francuzi nazywają tą krainę Ogrodem Francji.
Skupię się jednak na zamkach, bo to im właśnie jest poświęcona ta praca. Robiąc do niej notatki, przeczytałam wiele informacji na ich temat i to, co wydało mi się ciekawe to, że każdy z tych zamków jest inny. To co niewątpliwie je łączy to okres kiedy je budowano: średniowiecze i renesans. To właśnie charakterystyczne cechy architektury i sztuki tych epok przedstawiają te monumentalne budowle.
W średniowieczu powstawały zamki warowne, swoiste twierdze chroniące przed najeźdźcą. Renesans natomiast ukazał zupełnie inne oblicze, były to budowle pełne blasku i budzące podziw.
Niezależnie od epoki budowane były z ogromnym przepychem, wyniosłe i malownicze. Do dzisiaj zachwycają swoją architekturą, wystrojem czy pięknymi ogrodami. Większość z nich zaprojektowali włoscy artyści, którzy musieli oddać w nich włoski styl życia. Władcy Francji uważali bowiem, że zamki mają być świadectwem władzy królewskiej, elegancji, przepychu i wystawności życia dworskiego.
Nie sposób oczywiście zobaczyć i zwiedzić wszystkich tych pereł architektury. Przedstawię te, które na mnie zrobiły największe wrażenie.
Swoją okazałością i wielkością onieśmielił mnie Zamek w Chambord, który jest największym spośród zamków nad Loarą, uznawany za jedno z najbardziej imponujących dzieł renesansu. Swoim wyglądem przypomina średniowieczną twierdzę. W jego rogach stoją wieże o średnicy 20 metrów każda, a cały teren otoczony jest fosą. Posiada 440 komnat, 84 klatki schodowe i 365 kominków. Centrum zamku stanowi klatka schodowa w stylu Leonarda da Vinci – zbudowane dwie spirale schodów, skręcające w tę samą stronę, nie krzyżują się ze sobą. Autorem projektu zamku był włoski architekt Domenico da Cortona, jednak duży wpływ na wygląd miał sam mistrz Leonardo da Vinci.

Kolejny budowlany majstersztyk to Zamek Chenonceau nazywamy często Zamkiem Dam z racji jego właścicielek, które stopniowo go rozbudowywały. Jest to prostokątna budowla z białego wapienia, usytuowana w pięknym miejscu. Na terenie posiadłości zobaczymy wspaniały ogród z fontanną i parkowym labiryntem oraz most łączący oba brzegi rzeki Cher nad którą jest położony zamek. Można tu zobaczyć kaplicę zamkową, pokój Franciszka I z portretem Diany de Poitiers, zielony gabinet Katarzyny Medycejskiej oraz czarną komnatę Ludwiki Lotaryńskiej, pomalowaną tak po śmierci jej męża Henryka III.

Myślę, że nie tylko mnie zainteresuje Polski Skarb, zamek w Montresor, którego historia sięga 1005 roku. To taki polski akcent nad Loarą i pewnie też z tego względu jest tak chętnie odwiedzany przez Polaków. Przez 30 lat należał on do Ksawerego Branickiego, który zgromadził w nim pamiątki z Polski m.in. dzieła sztuki, księgi, oraz trofea myśliwskie w myśl rodowej dewizy "Pro Fide et Patriae". Wyróżnia się kult króla Jana III Sobieskiego (sławna płaskorzeźba Pierra Vaneau). Bardzo cenna jest biblioteka z księgami polskim i francuskimi, atlasami, globusami, zbiorem archiwaliów majątkowych, korespondencji, a też autografów wybitnych osobistości polskich i francuskich, świadczących o historycznych związkach kulturowych obu krajów. Branicki odrestaurował zamek i urządził pełne przepychu wnętrza wypełnione zabytkowymi meblami. Ciekawostką jest, że wnętrza i wyposażenie zamku nie było zmieniane od ponad 150 lat.

Znany głównie ze swych ogrodów, ale równie piękny to zamek w Villandry. Został zbudowany w stylu renesansowym przez Jana Breton w miejscu dawnej twierdzy warownej. Wokół zamku rozciągają się przepiękne ogrody dekoracyjne, warzywniak, który wygląda jak ten bajkowy z „Alicji w Krainie Czarów”. Cardin d’Ornement jest skomplikowaną kompozycją z geometrycznie przyciętych żywopłotów i klombów kwiatowych. Ogrody zajmują ogółem 5 hektarów. Rośnie tu ponad 1150 lip, na prawie 52 km stworzono artystyczne kompozycje roślinne. Prosty i elegancki zamek dopełnia całości.

Wśród wymienionych przeze mnie zamków nie mogło zabraknąć tego w Amboise, gdzie jak słuch niesie został pochowany Leonardo da Vinci. Sam zamek to majestatyczna budowla dominująca nad otoczeniem. Rezydowali tu królowie Ludwik XI, Karol VIII, Ludwik XII i Franciszek I, zawarto w nim także wiele układów międzynarodowych. Niestety zamek zaczął podupadać i w końcu powstało w nim więzienie. Źródła niewiele o nim mówią. Na zdjęciach jednak wygląda imponująco, a fakt, że jest jednym z najczęściej odwiedzanych zamków również jest dowodem jego wartości.

Na uwagę zasługuje również Zamek w Cheverny położony 190 km od Paryża. Zbudowany został w stylu Ludwika XIII z białego tufu wapiennego. Fasada jest prosta i symetryczna. Obok zamku jest kolosalnych rozmiarów – bo aż 100 ha – park, a przy parku las mający 2 tys. ha. Najbogatsze wnętrze ma Chambre du Roi (Komnata Królewska), w której nie spał żaden król ponieważ nikt taki nie zatrzymał się nigdy tutaj. zachowała się do dziś w nienaruszonym stanie ze sprzętami, obrazami i bronią. Słynne są polowania organizowane na terenie zamku. Zwiedzający mogą zobaczyć również psiarnię, liczącą dziś ok. 100 psów i Salę Trofeów, w której zgromadzono około 2 tysiące poroży.

Piękny jest także Zamek Blois, położony w miasteczku o tej samej nazwie nad samą Loarą. Wznosi się na najwyższym wzgórzu, z którego jest cudowny widok na miasto i rzekę. Należy do tych mniejszych zamków, ale jest równie wart uwagi. Po wejściu na dziedziniec ukazują się cztery skrzydła zamkowe, poprzedzielane wieżami. W każdej z wież są schody, po których wchodzi się na piętra i krużganki. Wewnątrz można obejrzeć oryginalne wyposażenie komnat królewskich, wspaniałą bibliotekę, marmurowe kominki z godłem Ludwika XII, którym jest jeżozwierz. Ponadto zamek eksponuje kolekcje malarstwa, która przedstawia historię zamku. Niezaprzeczalne jest to, że te średniowieczne i renesansowe zamki zachwycają nie tylko koneserów sztuki czy architektury, ale również zwykłych turystów.
Ich olbrzymią zaletą jest to, że były budowane i ozdabiane przez najwybitniejszych artystów, przez co same wyglądają jak murowane dzieła sztuki. Przyciągają swoją architekturą, wystrojem i pięknymi ogrodami.
Dzisiaj Dolina Loary to niezbity dowód świetności epok średniowiecza i renesansu, pozwalający na przybliżenie historii i kultury. Zamki nad Loarą to jedno z dziedzictw historycznych wpisanych w 2000 roku na listę UNESCO. Dzisiaj większość zamków nad Loarą pozostaje w prywatnych rękach - zamki są "zwyczajnymi" mieszkaniami, z tego względu tylko część z nich jest dostępna dla turystów (ale i tak wystarcza ich na solidną, pełną atrakcji wycieczkę).

Bibliografia: http://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolina_Loary http://podroze.gazeta.pl/podroze/56,114158,10026892,Francja__Bajeczne_zamki_nad_Loara.html
Książka „Zamki nad Loarą”, autorka: Milena Pozzoli Ercole
Książka „Podróże z pasją. Francja” Wydawnictwo Naukowe PWN http://www.national-geographic.pl/uzytkownik/relacje-z-podrozy/pokaz/smakiemwina/znane-zamki-nad-loara/ http://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zamek_w_Montr%C3%A9sor http://www.chateaudeblois.fr/ http://navtur.pl/place/show/269,zamek-w-amboise
http://navtur.pl/place/show/276,zamek-w-cheverny

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