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Index
Introduction ................................................................................................................................... 3
Laser cut ........................................................................................................................................ 4
Laser cut and sustainability ..................................................................................................... 9
Conclusion ................................................................................................................................... 11
References .................................................................................................................................... 12

Introduction
Technological advancement has provided new perspectives and applications in fashion design whether through the adoption of the most widespread techniques such as digital printing and laser cut, as well as, recently, 3D printing for development of garments. According to Pires,
"Technological innovations can make a big difference today, at every moment there are new products coming from new technologies or adaptations in existing machines" (Pires, 2012:172).
This project will highlight the use of laser cutting technology, explaining its procedures, its advantages, showing some examples of the use of this technology and also thinking about sustainability. Keywords: Technology, Laser cut, Fashion, Sustainability.

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Laser cut
The use of technology in clothing is intended to add value to the final product and one of these new features is the laser cutting. Laser cutting is the technique that combines technology and creativity to the fabrics. Designers are using this tool to cut, create layers and sculpt clothing fabrics in the most imaginative ways. The technique first appeared in the accessories and afterwards gave a light texture and brought sophistication to clothes. From party dresses to handbags and leather shoes, laser cutting impresses by creating precise details in a tremendous variety of fabrics and different materials.
Image 01. Giles and Ralph Lauren Spring Summer 2013 used laser cut techniques for their fashion shows collections.

(Wp, 2013)
The laser cut process is expensive and it can be done in specific chosen areas or around the fabrics. However, given the results, it is worth the cost, because the cut is clean and seamless, enabling the creation of extremely delicate and elegant pieces. This is a process where you have no contact directly with the tools or parts to do this procedure.
Laser cut system works as follows:
After the molds are scanned, design on CAD (Computer Aided Design) and all the fabrics layers are set in the correct place, automatically there is a laser cut. The laser cutter moves in a beam placed to the width of the cutting table and a few centimeters above it. The

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laser used for cutting is carbon dioxide, it cuts the fabrics and leave an edge molten material containing thermoplastic fibers, thus preventing it to unravel.
Interestingly, these machines accept different kinds of files, like CAD, CorelDraw,
Illustrator, usually all kinds of designs that uses traces. The main benefits of the use of computer files, such as mentioned above, is in the creation and cutting products, consisting in reducing the time and expenses, and the ability to easily change the drawings models.
There are many different models and manufacturers of these machines, some with more power, others more desk space, and so on.
Image 02. Laser cut machine.

(Direct industry, 2015)
To better understand the cutting process of the laser, watch the video below: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyZsKxQvJcs Some machines make the cut according to the colors and the sequence that you set for your art, and thus will have more speed, will not waste time with the cutting process, that means less time using the machines reducing cost. Laser cut can be made in various materials like, glass, acrylic, marble, wood, plastic, fabric, steel and others.
One of the great advantages in using this technology is the quality of your product. Often using other tools such as cutting band saw, or mechanisms that your cutting process is a blade or

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a saw, you always have to give finishing to take burrs or excesses that are at the ends/edges of the parts. With laser cutting, your piece is out almost finished, shortening the production work.
Other advantages should be mentioned, as the cutting precision, minimal material loss, no distortion, speed production, and the wide variety of creation. However, cutting development with numerical control emerges today as an innovation that overcomes the problems caused by the laser discoloration of fabrics, burning the edges and gluing the clipped layers.
In terms of sustainability, unlike other types of cutting, laser cutting has minimal material waste, thus thinking of a large-scale production can be a great investment to have one of these machines. It is still an expensive equipment, but because of faster production and superior quality compared to others in the process and less waste production for the environment is one of the future technologies that are worth investing in.
Here are some examples of pieces that were developed by the laser cut process in recent years. This is interesting because as I said before, the use of creativity, quality and innovation are some of the factors that make many designers opt for this process.
Image 03. Christian Louboutin Impera Pump in black.

(Barneys, 2014)
Christian Louboutin launched his first shoe using the laser cutting in 2014. His shoes are between the most desired in the industry and always been a tremendous success and always been a huge influence for the shoe industry with inspiring models. The Impera laser cut pump is a leather scarpin with laser cutting in elaborate arabesque detail and pvc transparency.

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Image 04. Kenzo Spring Summer 2015.

(Vogue, 2015)
The laser techniques in the manufacture of fabrics opened a wide range of possibilities, such as the white sets in Kenzo collection. An amazing laser cut with dark background can build a shaded effect on a white dress.
Image 05. Iris Van Herpen Spring Summer 2016.

(Charm haut, 2016)
The Dutch designer Iris van Herpen presented on the catwalk laser cut made dresses and
3D printing knitted by robots on the body of the actress Gwendoline Christy (Brienne of Tarth

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Game of Thrones). Her creations often mix fashion elements, art and sculpture, using specific materials from product design and architecture. In addition to the different raw materials, Iris puts the technology to its favor, as some parts are designed on the computer and made using laser cut, because they are too difficult to be handmade. However, in much of her work, the designer combines the use of technology with craftsmanship. This combination of tradition and contemporary technology points to the future of the textile design.
Image 06. Iris Van Herpen Fashion Show 2016.

(Vogue, 2016)

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Laser cut and sustainability
A futuristic fashion brand, called The Post-Couture Collective, offers an innovative and super interesting proposal where you assemble your own clothes.
The collective claims to be an alternative to the current fashion system, designing clothes in the principles of "open source" and using 21st century technology. Still, according to The PostCouture Collective, they are the first fashion brand in the world to truly embrace the Maker
Movement and the Third Industrial Revolution.
How the process works?
First you need to download a brand software that allows the customization of parts of models available and fit to your measurements. You will have to choose the desired material and the color of clothing. After having that set, your file will be sent to a nearby Maker space of their location, to be produced by laser cut and 3D printing. These "pieces" that composes the chosen clothing part are assembled by the User itself, through a system of fittings without the need for stitching or any other type of equipment.
The proposal, according to The Post-Couture Collective, is to create fashion and the clothes of the future: no waste material, without leftovers collections, no error of measures, on demand and fully sustainable. The first collection is signed by mphvs, brand of Dutch designer Martijn van Strien, founder and visionary behind the collective.
Image 07. The Post Culture Collective.

(Dezeen Magazine, 2015)

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The collection includes 6 pieces of clothing that have been specially developed for laser cut in production and fitting before use. The fabric used is a 3D mesh, high-tech, soft to the touch, breathable and strong enough for the innovative construction method. Made from recycled PET bottles, the fabric also allows new recycling after use. And the prices of clothing in this first collection range from 40 to 130 euros.
Image 08. The Post Coulture Collective.

( Ecouterre, 2015)

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Conclusion
Technological innovation is an important supplementation for innovative projects.
Following Quinn (2011) information technology and new materials are reinventing clothing as we know it, making fashion a potent source of technological and material innovation. It can provide the sum of creativity with different esthetic innovations as well as new materials for everyday use. The clothing design is a sector that is always aware of such innovations, which may enable the design of a final product with differential, higher quality, sustainability and many other factors that can add value to creation. In recent years, the use of technology is growing daily in the garment industry and accessories, such as laser cutting parts and products derived from this segment.
Thus, it can be seen that the laser cut is still a growing application in fashion design, providing new possibilities and different results in relation to other processes that were being used. However, this technology tends to spread, with the possibility of reduced costs and better use of the materials, turning it into a fantastic tool for designers to create innovative pieces.

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References
Alvarez, J. (2014) What you need to know about laser-cut clothing. Engadget. [Online] Available at: http://www.engadget.com/2014/06/17/laser-cut-clothing-explainer/. [Accessed 12 April
2016].
Bucci, J. (2013) Laser Cut Fabrics are the Cutting Edge of Fashion. Start up fashion. [Online]
Available at: http://startupfashion.com/laser-cut. [Accessed 12 April 2016].
Charm Haut . (2016) Iris Van Herpen & Robôs de impressão 3D em seu desfile de Primavera
Verão 2016. [Online] Available at: https://charmehaut.com/2016/01/09/iris-van-herpen-robosde-impressao-3d/. [Accessed 12 April 2016].
Cut laser cut. (2015) Fashion & Textiles - Laser cutting fabric. [Online] Available at: http://www.cutlasercut.com/services/laser-cutting-fabric. [Accessed 12 April 2016].
Edited. (2012) The laser display cutting edge of a trend. [ONLINE] Available at: https://edited.com/blog/2012/05/the-laser-display-cutting-edge-of-a-trend/. [Accessed 12 April
2016].
Dezeen. (2015) Martijn van Strien's The Post-Couture Collective provides downloadable fashion designs. [Online] Available at: http://www.dezeen.com/2015/10/18/martijn-van-strien-the-postcouture-collective-customisable-fashion-dutch-design-week-2015/. [Accessed 12 April 2016].
Pires, B. (2012) Textile Body: 3D Hosiery & Design Organic. Senac: Sao Paolo.
Singh,
P.
(2016)
Laser cut fashion.
[Online]
Available http://pt.slideshare.net/prinksrocks/laser-cut-fashion. [Accessed 12 April 2016].

at:

Singh,
P.
2016.
Laser
cut fashion. [ONLINE]
Available
http://pt.slideshare.net/prinksrocks/laser-cut-fashion. [Accessed 12 April 2016].

at:

Vogue. (2015) Kenzo Spring Summer 2015 Collection. [Online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/kenzo/slideshow/collection [Accessed 12 April 2016].
Quinn, B. (2011) Fashion Futures. New York and London: Merrell.

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