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Questions • Challenges • Controversies

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QUESTIONS • CHALLENGES • CONTROVERSIES
Section Editor: James Q. Del Rosso, DO, FAOCD products, and failure to discern “fiction from fact” related to unsubstantiated claims made by some OTC anti-aging skin care products. A cosmeceutical product by definition is a cosmetic product in which the active ingredient is meant to have a beneficial physiological effect due to an enhanced pharmacological action when compared with an inert cosmetic.1 Every day in clinical practice, dermatologists see patients who ask them if cosmeceutical products are beneficial. Accurate advice is a challenge that requires knowledge of the structure and function of human skin and the available scientific data, which may or may not support the efficacy of a given cosmeceutical product. As dermatologists, it is very hard for us to keep up with the latest evidence on the popular cosmeceutical ingredients due to the vastness of ingredients, the multitude of commercially available products and their efficacy claims, and the validity or accuracy of data gleaned from invitro and clinical studies, if available.

How Much Do We Really Know About Our Favorite Cosmeceutical Ingredients?
Jacquelyn Levin, DO; James Q. Del Rosso, DO, FAOCD; Saira B. Momin, DO

Abstract
To date, we are unaware of a review that has investigated common cosmeceutical ingredients in order to answer the three specific questions proposed by the father of cosmeceuticals, Dr. Albert Kligman. It is the goal of this review to gather all the published scientific data on five common cosmeceutical ingredients, answer the three major questions about the scientific rationale for their use, and ascertain how much we really know about consumers’ favorite cosmeceutical ingredients. Most of the research concerning cosmeceutical retinoid ingredients is based upon the effects of retinoic acid on the skin. Clinical trials concerning

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